The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[coullstar 0]

Spot on, cheers. If you look at my picture below the line thin is already split. The main line ffom the matrix to the head has a small line that attaches to the other end.

If I understand it right I can take one of the coolant lines back to this split then cut and add another T for the front coolant line. Will that work or does the back side coolant line need to got directly into the main matrix / head line? Would I be in danger of just circulating the hot coolant round in a short loop if I do as suggested?

[coullstar 0]

Just realised Im adding a connection in that is not needed. It was the original Samco hoses with the inbult T at the header tank that were mucking me up. I see that what I need to be doing is put the turbo in the coolant loop, what I was suggesting above is adding a side loop to the Turbo. Is that right?

 

With my current set up I will cut back the little house coming from the header and attach the front coolant line to that. I will then connect the back coolant line to the T from the main line. This should save me haveing as many fittings as you Kev.

 

Spoke to GT3 and they have banjo kits going straight back to a -6 AN fitting so that should save some extra potential leak paths.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yep, the turbo goes between the "T line from main" and "These two connect at the moment....". That is the correct in > out flow. Doesn't matter which way round they go on the turbo, just so long as the water pump pushes water through it.

 

Yeah the banjo fittings have improved since I did mine, so use what ever works best for you. I've not had any leaks at all from the bits I used, and they worked well to get the lines high enough to sit above the heat shield.

 

These look nice, shame they weren't around a few years ago! http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... _Code=GTBB

[coullstar 0]

Have spoken with Mr Manson. He mentioned trying to tie into the Aux water pump so water circlutaes after shut down. Good idea, ever tried it?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I haven't run an aux pump on mine for a couple of years now. I was going to look into a more powerful pump and a better way of controlling it, but never got round to it. Seems fine without a pump so I'm not in any hurry.

 

Yours should still be in place and working and water should move through the turbo.

[coullstar 0]

Ok, a better photos of my current set up. The line coming from the matrix/head naturally sits toward the turbo. I'll cut that and get a braided line to sit across the turbo but the question is should this go to the front or back fittings in the turbo or does it not matter which way the water circulates through it?

The other line is fairly flexible for placement at the moment. I have a turbo jacket but Im not sure they are a great idea as to me its locking in a lot heat in the turbo casing. The only issue there is will the braided lines handle the temps given out. I do have some of the relfective jackets to slip over the one going over the turbo.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It doesn't matter which way round you put the water fittings, just so long as water is able to flow through it, the turbo is happy.

 

I wouldn't use a jacket. I tried a couple and they just crumble to dust after a while, even the expensive ones. They also trap moisture, but more importantly I spoke to a few experienced turbo companies and they said they're not a good idea on GT ball bearing turbos as the oil can get baked, which the bearings aren't very tolerant of apparently.

 

That's why I made a heat shield to sit between the turbine housing and the lines. Using an infrared thermometer after a hard run, I see 450 deg C under the shield, and 100 deg C above it. The 200 series braided PTFE can operate at 232 deg C, so the shield works perfectly :D

 

I take things like that very seriously. The more time and money spent in these areas = less time on the back of an AA recovery truck.

[poll250 0]

Does anyone have any tips on extending the MAF cable? Like what gauge of wire to use etc? I've got a 6 pin MAF if that makes any difference!

 

I'm pretty rubbish at soldering but I assume that's the best way to join the wires together?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Soldering is best if you're extending the loom, yeah. The mistake most folk make when starting out with soldering is not getting the iron hot enough. Soldering is 10x easier with a proper iron and good quality solder, LOTS easier!

 

A nice 50 quid temperature controlled one from Maplin and some Autosol solder is a really good investment :D

 

I would reterminate the plug instead of making 2 joins though. You can get the tool to release the pins and new pins / wire seals from http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/about

 

Quality solder - http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Fasten ... e=googleps

 

Quality iron - http://www.jpgelectronics.com/products.asp?partno=Y061

[poll250 0]

Thanks Kev, you're a star!

 

Any particular type of wire to go for?

[VR6Joni 0]

Get lead based solder if you can. Otherwise you should go for the highest silver content lead free solder that you can get hold of. Cheap lead free solder is a right pain in the ar$e to use and it eats through iron tips like they are going out of fashion.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Thanks Kev, you're a star!

 

Any particular type of wire to go for?

 

No worries. No more than 1.0mm2 thin wall wire from that autoelectric supplies will be fine mate :D

[Philmo 0]

Noticed today that Torotrak [designers/developers of toroidal friction drive IVT's] now has 15% stake in Rotrex.

[GVK 0]

any boosted VR6s fancy coming to Stealth on Sunday?

 

CGTI struggling to make numbers up...

[poll250 0]

Will this cable be suitable for MAF extension purposes:

 

http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6216

 

Off to Maplin later tonight so might as well kill two birds..

[Kevin Bacon 5]

40 amp wire is overkill but will work :D

 

5 amp cable is all you need really.

 

Personally I wouldn't solder the wires where the join is liable to flex, it's better to use those inline crimps that can be heat shrunk imo. If the soldered joint will be supported or cable tied to something solid, then that's fine :D

[coullstar 0]

Ok the cars still not back together but thinking about next steps for the car that I can look to do over the winter. Some JE piston have cropped up. Is it worth fitting these on there own or do they only really come into play with forged rods as well? Basically just wondering what the stock rods can take safely?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

If you want it to last, personally I'd say anything over 400 crank power, do the pistons. Beyond 500hp, do both. VR6 rods are strong though. Bending them is not a common thing, but it does happen if you push too much boost in.

[coullstar 0]

Ok thats fine. I think 500bhp+ is pushing it a fair bit on 2wd. A little over 400+ safely would be a nice figure to aim for.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's also pushing past the maximum the gearbox can handle!

 

A genuine 400hp is ridiculously fast in a 1250Kg car, in the real world. Pretty much everything this side of a supercar will struggle to get past it.

 

I had some roll caged, slammed and prepped 997 GT3 up my chuff yesterday and I caught him asleep or in the wrong gear and he didn't know what happened after I pulled 5 car lengths on him. A few seconds later he got his motor in the right power band and shot past me.

 

VRTs can seriously upset some people :lol:

[StormchargedVR6 0]

Got to say 400bhp in a corrado is nice, do miss it :( Think may need more bhp with the extra weight of the 4wd this time round :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You've got the traction and the gearbox strength, so go for it mate :D

 

You know what I was saying about R32s having a tax problem, look at these jokers - http://www.jbsautodesigns.co.uk/listing ... s-380-0306

 

£7.2K for a stage 1 turbo, + another £3300 for an intercooler :cuckoo: :lol:

[GVK 0]

Guys, I am Midland agent for C2 UK - If you require anything we sell, let me know.

 

I'm selling some of the stuff in the eBay shop , adding stuff as I go...

 

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/GVKmotorsport-direct

 

Some of the things I'll be adding

 

Software for following OBD2 VR6

 

NA with/without cams

super charged (using 3" MAF and red tops)

Usual C2 states of Turbo tunes matched to injectors (See C2 site for details)

 

R32 turbo software

 

Injectors for all of the above

 

12v vr6 sump baffle kits

 

95mm MAF housing in alloy

 

Head Spacer plates for 12v/24v 8.5:1 and 9:1

 

Plug and play ECU service for transplants

 

Immobiliser defeats

 

Oil cooler extension tubes

 

24v conversion downpipe

 

We are designing new products all the time.

[coullstar 0]

I remember there was a discussion about Holset Turbos before. When speaking to the guys at AET today I asked what they were like. The guys response wasnt to great. He said they are perfect for diesel applications however for the hotter petrol applications they do not last. A brand that they mentioned to be good was Borg Worner.

[jamminvr6storm 0]

Im sure I remember discussions about Borg Warner turbo's in this thread a while back...