The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[The_Dude 0]

Did you not get a moulded plastic pipe with the kit that goes from charger to TB? I take it not...

 

I did but it's not in the best condition, been chopped and adapted a bit and I'm wary it may leak boost.

 

I would run the charger - silicon hose - metal t-piece with recirc valve - silicon hose 63mm-76mm - then my 76mm bonrath up to the TB with another silicon hose, should look and sound nice and probably flow better but I am aware I should try and keep it 63mm right up to the TB, is it that much of a difference though?

 

I think you should keep the 63mm wherever possible. Think about blowing air back thru a funnel, it will go fast at pressure thru the small tube, but when it opens up, the pressure will drop as there is a greater area to fill with the same volume of air.

[poll250 0]

Hey guys,

 

In the final stages of assembling the parts for my Rotrex install now. I'm just going to order a meth/water injection kit from Devilsown .

 

They have advised me to go with this kit: http://www.methanol-injection.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=55 which will mean I have to buy and fit a MAP sensor into the manifold.

 

I just wanted to know how much a 2.5 bar MAP sensor was roughly, and how to go about fitting one to my manifold?

 

Thanks,

Andy

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Erm, it's on the same site mate - http://www.methanol-injection.co.uk/pro ... ucts_id=74 :lol:

 

You just need a vac line to feed it, either Tee off the FPR hose, or use one the accessory outlets on the brake servo hose (they have green caps on them which you can remove).

 

Map sensors need a 5V supply, which I'm assuming the progressive controller must output?

 

But why sell people a progressive kit and make the MAP sensor optional? :cuckoo:

[poll250 0]

Map sensors need a 5V supply, which I'm assuming the progressive controller must output?

 

But why sell people a progressive kit and make the MAP sensor optional? :cuckoo:

 

That's what I was thinking! I was under the impression I could use the 0-5v signal the MAF produces to connect to the controller.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

So long as it's a regulated 5V, yep that'll work....

[bananawhip 0]

I think you should keep the 63mm wherever possible. Think about blowing air back thru a funnel, it will go fast at pressure thru the small tube, but when it opens up, the pressure will drop as there is a greater area to fill with the same volume of air.

 

That's what I was thinking, although essentially it's still the same amount of air going through the TB surely, all gets a bit confusing :confused4:

[buttles 0]

Sorry to sound like a Dick but the gas flow/pressure is the other way around!! Bernoulli's principle explains it. It's the blowing between two hanging apples bit of Phsycics. Energy will be lost by the compression and expansion of the flowing air. Now, where did that Life get to?

[Philmo 0]

Recirculating valve...

 

Little vacuum port at the top of it, run a hose to the abs vacuum feed like a Schrick (little green caps) or does it need a feed from somewhere else?

 

I've got it in my head to pop a Y piece into the line that comes off the FPR but I don't know why I'm thinking to do that :confused4: :D

 

Any ideas? Does it even need a vacuum feed, I've looked at pictures of engine bays for the past 30 mins but can't figure it out

 

 

Like this?

 

 

Those slimline DGA fan mounts are really neat! :salute:

[VR6Joni 0]

Map sensors need a 5V supply, which I'm assuming the progressive controller must output?

 

But why sell people a progressive kit and make the MAP sensor optional? :cuckoo:

 

That's what I was thinking! I was under the impression I could use the 0-5v signal the MAF produces to connect to the controller.

 

Also consider this, it's probably easier to pipe up, also needs 5V though.

http://uk.farnell.com/freescale-semiconductor/mpx4250ap/sensor-abs-press-36-3-psi/dp/1457153

[dirtytorque 0]

Too good to be true?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TURBO-KIT-FOR-ALL ... 0354313853

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The oft discussed fleabay kit from A.Nother chinese cloner :D

 

It's designed to go straight onto a stock engine and run at 6-7psi, so there's no software etc.

 

Hard to say if it's any good or not until you try it really. I wouldn't use it on my car, but I would try it on an old beater Passat VR6 for a laugh though.

[dirtytorque 0]

Almost tempted but I know i wouldn't stick to the script ....

 

ah well..

[bananawhip 0]

Anybody know of a good way of checking if my V9's getting oil to it?

 

Is it a case of cracking open the top pipe and turning it over with a rag under it? Took the pipe off today and nothing came out but it has been sitting for 12hours, was a bit too scared to turn it over so any suggestions are welcome :)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

yep, undo the blue anodised block and turn her over. You may need to turn it over for a good 20 seconds or so, especially from cold, before you see any oil.

 

That blue block used to leak like a sieve on the early kits, which was one way of telling the oil was getting up there :D

[bananawhip 0]

yep, undo the blue anodised block and turn her over. You may need to turn it over for a good 20 seconds or so, especially from cold, before you see any oil.

 

That blue block used to leak like a sieve on the early kits, which was one way of telling the oil was getting up there

 

Thanks Kev, I'll give it a go

[chazrad 0]

yep, undo the blue anodised block and turn her over. You may need to turn it over for a good 20 seconds or so, especially from cold, before you see any oil.

 

That blue block used to leak like a sieve on the early kits, which was one way of telling the oil was getting up there :D

 

I'm with you on that one!! :lol: Often had a little dribble to wipe up after a good long run...

 

Thankfully, there are no such problems with the turbo fitted!

[DANG60 0]

Hey everyone,

after a couple of years of not owning a rado im pretty sure i want another lol. I havent ruled out a 20vt one but i think ive got my heart set on a vr. This may be a bit long winded so bear with me :sleeping: . At some point when funds allow i would like to go down the Fi route. werther it be a supercharger but im thinking along the the lines of a turbo. Im looking for a decent base car so i cant eventually get round to doing this.

My Big question is and i know it depends how theyve been looked after etc etc but what sort of milage is to much. At what point would you say i would consider rebuilding the engine before you start playing with turbos etc. The rest of the car would be up to scratch as i would upgrade the brakes,suspension and everything else 1st.

There are some low milage ones but it seems a shame to start to modify them as theyre nice and original.

Long story short how suitable are the higher milage C's for going the Fi route?

[ziderapple 0]

 

I'm with you on that one!! :lol: Often had a little dribble to wipe up after a good long run...

 

 

Charlie I'm glad you're enjoying your car, but really.... you should keep comments like that to yourself! :pukeright:

 

DanG60 - If you're in no rush to go FI then spend some time on the block before going turbo. In fact I'd be tempted to buy a 2.8 block and re-build on a stand and get it ready to drop in with the turbot when funds allow. The 2.8 blocks seem much stronger and with the turbo you wont notice any difference in power.

[GVK 0]

Joining the ranks of the VRT boys.....

 

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/acatalog ... 5001S.html :norty:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Top choice :D

[coullstar 0]

Joining the ranks of the VRT boys.....

 

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/acatalog ... 5001S.html :norty:

 

How much for the turbo? PM if you want.

[DANG60 0]

Zider apple, cheeres for that. i always fancied rebuilding an engine but have no experience of doing so. Not sure werther it would be worth fitting a lower milage 24v motor and taking it from there. This all depends on the base car that i buy.

I also havent had a quote for a vrt yet either lol mite have to go the 20vt route for insurance reasons.

[GVK 0]

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk

 

I think all the prices are on there, it's a genuine Honeywell turbo... GT3582R with 1.06 hotside

 

Going to be running C2 42# software, 440s, C2 spacer plate etc

 

I already have a socketed ECU from C2 UK , been running their NA chip for two years or so. :D

[Kevin Bacon 5]

£985 inc VAT, not bad at all. Better than Owen Developments price of £1061 + VAT :?

 

1.06 back housing will give it some stonking top end 8)

[VR6Joni 0]

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk

 

I think all the prices are on there, it's a genuine Honeywell turbo... GT3582R with 1.06 hotside

 

Going to be running C2 42# software, 440s, C2 spacer plate etc

 

I already have a socketed ECU from C2 UK , been running their NA chip for two years or so. :D

 

When people say C2 software does it actually mean they have rewritten/modified the software or have they simply remapped it to suit certain engine parameters i.e. larger injectors and 4" MAF etc.