The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I've got a build thread on the VR6OC but I think you need to be a member before you can see the pics? - http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum ... p?139931.0

 

Although it is a little out of date now!

 

I haven't found time to copy it over to this forum yet!

 

It's funny reading back and realising how much has changed and how often I've contradicted myself :lol:

[matty.vrt 0]

what helix clutch are you using.

[GVK 0]

 

It's funny reading back and realising how much has changed and how often I've contradicted myself :lol:

 

That is true, you do change your mind to suit your current spec :grin:

 

I've just put a Helix paddle clutch in mine, it better last :nuts:

 

I made a new stock clutch last 4yrs on my NA VR, that's with road,track and 1/4mile use.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's the normal Helix Organic. Must have used 4 or 5 of them over the years and they've normally been OK.

 

If it is dead, I'll be going O2M with a VAG PD170 TDI clutch.

 

 

It's funny reading back and realising how much has changed and how often I've contradicted myself :lol:

 

That is true, you do change your mind to suit your current spec :grin:

 

Sure, but it's a case of being happy at the time with what ever the spec was, but isn't necessarily the best it could be. It's constantly evolved over 3.5 years, so it's only natural my opinions will change. I.e. I started off with a GT30 as it was what I thought I wanted at the time, it was nice and all, but a GT35 is a lot better :D

 

I'm sure if I changed to a GT40 that would become the best thing since sliced bread :D

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Guys, I am Midland agent for C2 UK - If you require anything we sell, let me know.

 

I'm selling some of the stuff in the eBay shop , adding stuff as I go...

 

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/GVKmotorsport-direct

 

Some of the things I'll be adding

 

Software for following OBD2 VR6

 

NA with/without cams

super charged (using 3" MAF and red tops)

Usual C2 states of Turbo tunes matched to injectors (See C2 site for details)

 

R32 turbo software

 

Injectors for all of the above

 

12v vr6 sump baffle kits

 

95mm MAF housing in alloy

 

Head Spacer plates for 12v/24v 8.5:1 and 9:1

 

Plug and play ECU service for transplants

 

Immobiliser defeats

 

Oil cooler extension tubes

 

24v conversion downpipe

 

We are designing new products all the time.

 

Seeing you post today has reminded me of this. Can you please keep this in the Suppliers forum :wink: Ta

[GVK 0]

Was not sure of the rules with that, I do apologise. I'm not in the Midlands anymore, anyway :brickwall:

[VR6Joni 0]

Someone please help, I've made a right royal Fek up.

I bought a Walbro GSS340 in tank fuel pump, the problem is I have the VDO in tank pump and it doesn't fit!

Basically the pump its self is a smaller diameter. The outlet on the VDO is a right angle and on the Walbro it's straight and the connectors are just 2 different size spades spades on the VDO where its a Bosch style plug on the Walbro. I thought I could get around these two problems until I realised the size difference.

 

I see one of two solutions to this:

1)Get a bosch setup and replace the pump with my Walbro one.

2)Send the Walbro back and get another suitable in tank pump.

 

Anyone got any experience with either of these two decisions because I'm really stuck with 2.

[matty.vrt 0]

02M is the way forward although you find your self changing gear more as the first 3 gears are gone in a second i think it needs a lower final drive any ideas on what would work ie... would a 02M deisel one work.

[coullstar 0]

Question about wastegate sizes. I have a 38mm which is supposed to have an 11psi spring in it. The line from the wastegate is connected directly to the piping leading to the intercooler.

With the old turbo is would only be at about 15-17psi max (with a manual ball / spring controller). With the new one and the controller removed it is spiking up to 20-25psi when Im fairly agressive with the throttle. If I use the throttle steadily there is a chattering noise around 15psi but the boost still rises.

 

Does it sound like the wastegate is too small and I should be looking at a 44mm one or does it sound like the current one is not functioning right (sticking/binding) and causing the boost to be higher?

[jamminvr6storm 0]

Question about wastegate sizes. I have a 38mm which is supposed to have an 11psi spring in it. The line from the wastegate is connected directly to the piping leading to the intercooler.

With the old turbo is would only be at about 15-17psi max (with a manual ball / spring controller). With the new one and the controller removed it is spiking up to 20-25psi when Im fairly agressive with the throttle. If I use the throttle steadily there is a chattering noise around 15psi but the boost still rises.

 

Does it sound like the wastegate is too small and I should be looking at a 44mm one or does it sound like the current one is not functioning right (sticking/binding) and causing the boost to be higher?

 

If you want to run just WG pressure its best to connect it directly to a take-off on the inlet manifold. I use a Tial 38mm with a 6psi spring, they recommend using a 6mm ID hose direct from the inlet to the WG.

 

Also make sure you have the correct side of the WG plumbed in.

[coullstar 0]

Mmm, ok. The wastegate hasnt been off since Ive had the car so it hasnt changed position. All I did was removed the manual controller and connect the pipe directly to the pipe leading from the compressor housing to the intercooler.

Just to confirm this pipe is the one that open the wastegate and dump the excess pressure into the exhaust manifold/downpipe? Could this then be the restricton and I need a larger ID pipe? There is only one line coming from the wastegate so Im dont see how that could be plumbed in wrong.

[jamminvr6storm 0]

All I did was removed the manual controller and connect the pipe directly to the pipe leading from the compressor housing to the intercooler....

 

So what you need to do is connect the WG pipe (the silver one that connects to the side of the wastegate in your picture) to a takeoff from your inlet manifold. This works better if the pipe is continuous (i.e no joins).

[Kevin Bacon 5]

/\ I would only do that if the Wastegate diaphragm can handle vacuum. Tials can, even though they recommend you don't do that. I can't say the same of ebay clones Wastegates. WGs should only see boost, so if you want to use the intake as a supply line, use a ball/spring boost controller (set on softest setting to essentially bypass it) because it acts like a check valve, thereby protecting the diaphragm. Or, take the feed from the compressor housing, just before the outlet, as there's no vacuum on the turbo side of the throttle plate.

 

When boost pressure and exhaust pressure equalise, the gate opens, well, a bit before target pressure actually.

 

If you have an 11psi spring in the WG and the boost is spiking to 25psi, you have a serious problem. I suspect the WG isn't even opening. 11psi isn't a standard pressure. WGs normally ship with half bar springs. Did someone put that in? And if so, did the diaphragm get split?

 

Could also be a split / leak in the supply line.

[coullstar 0]

The feed line is about 10in from the compressor outlet. I'll try and get the line off and have a look. Failing that it will be turbo off to get the wastegate off. At least Ive plenty of practice at that!!

[coullstar 0]

Fixed, the pipe end at the wastegate had degraded so there was a split. Turned it round, connected up and boosting to 7psi now. Only problem is its feels too slow now :lol: . Boost controller back on and I'll have a play with increasing it a bit. The diff was doing its job as it was struggling to spin up in the wet with only 7psi where before it was wild.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Well yeah, it will feel slow. You practically had no wastegate before! It's insanse how quick the turbo boosts with no wastegate intervention.... you were lucky you didn't A) pink the engine to death and B) strip the teeth off 3rd and 4th gears.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Someone please help, I've made a right royal Fek up.

I bought a Walbro GSS340 in tank fuel pump, the problem is I have the VDO in tank pump and it doesn't fit!

Basically the pump its self is a smaller diameter. The outlet on the VDO is a right angle and on the Walbro it's straight and the connectors are just 2 different size spades spades on the VDO where its a Bosch style plug on the Walbro. I thought I could get around these two problems until I realised the size difference.

 

I see one of two solutions to this:

1)Get a bosch setup and replace the pump with my Walbro one.

2)Send the Walbro back and get another suitable in tank pump.

 

Anyone got any experience with either of these two decisions because I'm really stuck with 2.

 

Vince supplies a machined sleeve with his GSS340s and it fits in the housing snugly. Or some people pack the pump body out with O rings. I use the machined sleeve. The wiring and hose differences aren't an issue.

[coullstar 0]

Yeah I know. Luckily I did have a feeling that there was something not quite right so I only pushed it a few times to those pressures, mostly changing up around 15psi though.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's been discussed before, but that Gizzmo IBC is now only £200, which is a steal - http://www.gizzmoelectronics.co.uk/eSto ... b59391fc97

 

What it does is lock onto and hold a target boost pressure which feels different to running just the wastegate spring.

 

The trouble with running the wastegate spring is it opens slightly before the target boost, so can feel linear and 'slow' as you say. With the IBC, it will keep the wastegate closed for as long as possible and you've experienced what acceleration feels like with a fully shut wastegate :D Then when the target boost is reached, the WG opens and the IBC will pulse it open & closed to hold that target boost all the way round to the redline.

 

Some MBCs cause spikes, but some people like that as it's what kicks you into the seat :D

[VR6Joni 0]

 

Vince supplies a machined sleeve with his GSS340s and it fits in the housing snugly. Or some people pack the pump body out with O rings. I use the machined sleeve. The wiring and hose differences aren't an issue.

 

Cheers Kev.

 

I'll machine some sleeves up at work and give that a go. I wrongly assumed it would just slot in and jumped in at the deep end and stripped the lot down. Oh well you live and learn.

 

A few pointers for anyone else removing the fuel pump.

Have lots of rags handy as the whole assembly holds a lot of fuel and its very tricky trying to empty it all back into the fuel tank being careful not to damage the level float and sender.

Make sure you have some spare hose clamps and tool ready as the ones on the pump assembly are not reusable.

Finally make sure you have all the parts required before you start the job!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah when you first do an uprated in-tank pump, it's definitely a case of "What the heck?"!! Given how many years they've been around, I'm still amazed Walbro or Bosch don't do an direct bolt-in uprated replacement.

 

Another issue with these pumps is the factory swirl pot doesn't work. The standard pump (VDO or Bosch) has a secondary pick up head where returned fuel is fed back to, via the swirl pot. The Walbros etc have just the one pick up head, so you have to mount it as low as possible in order to reduce the chace of surging below 1/4 tank, but it still happens. This is why I went with an external swirl pot and pump as per the MK2 setup to avoid surging.

 

Good tips on the pump removal. I would also relieve the rail pressure via the little allen head bolt in the fuel rail first, otherwise you can get a nice face full of petrol if you pull off the supply line at the pump :D

[GVK 0]

Well yeah, it will feel slow. You practically had no wastegate before! It's insanse how quick the turbo boosts with no wastegate intervention.... you were lucky you didn't A) pink the engine to death and B) strip the teeth off 3rd and 4th gears.

 

 

Reminds me of the time about 15yrs ago we put a truck actuator on a Series 1 RS Turbo

 

'just to see happens' :lol: :cuckoo:

 

Well. what happened was.... the wastegate stayed closed and it blew the ringlands off a piston :lol:

[GVK 0]

http://forums.mwerks.com/showthread.php?4774801

 

 

 

Some F1 turbo p0rn for you B00st lovers :lol:

[VR6Joni 0]

http://forums.mwerks.com/showthread.php?4774801

 

 

 

Some F1 turbo p0rn for you B00st lovers :lol:

 

Awsome pictures.

 

I notice a lot of throttle bodies attached to the compressor inlet, could that be of any benefit to road cars?

 

Thinking about it it would probably stall the compressor much quicker than desired, or would it as it would be running in partial vacuum meaning much less air resistance!

Who wants to be a guinea pig?

[big ben 10]

yeah its a good find, great to see