chrishill 0 Posted August 16, 2005 I think my recent probelms are down to an intermittently dodgy MAF. I know i need the part number ending in '461' but whats the rest of the number? Also, is there an alternative? say from a ford galaxy or such? I've used the search and found a few threads but mostly relating to the other MAF type on later vr6's. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutch24V 0 Posted August 16, 2005 ...err, can't remember to be honest but it's stamped on your existing one. Also, take the Bosch number and order it direct from them as it'll be a lot cheaper than VW. I can't remeber the exact details now but there were 2 different MAF's for the VR6 and one has been dropped. My original one ended in 461 (from a 03/'94 VR) and I think (don't quote me on this) that this has been replaced by one ending in 462A. I will check the number on the new one this eve. to confirm. This was all sorted for me by Bosch though based on my license plate. Cost 270 euro inc. (part ex.), where as VW wanted 350 excl. !!!! Dutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted August 16, 2005 The rest of the part number is written on the MAF! Get the Bosch number (not the 021 VW number) and try Ford and Merc to see if they use the same one on the Galaxy and Sprinter vans. There aren't any (easy) alternatives for the 5 wire early MAFs but a local bosch place do them for £150 exchange, instead of the £337 that the dealer charges. Apparently the 461 MAFs are more reliable than the 462s (4 wire) so once you get a new one, it should be good for 10 years or so. Try Noskys first though as you're local to him aren't you?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrishill 0 Posted August 16, 2005 yeah i read bosch are doing them on an exchange basis, but if i can i'd like to try and find a 2nd hand one first, theres been a few on ebay for about £40 which is less of a sting. good point about checking the number on the MAF thats already there... doh! - edit - yeah i could try chris's if hes willing to let me borrow it for a few days since the problem comes and goes, and didnt show itself at all during the test runs we went on at the weekend... sods law! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted August 16, 2005 What are the problems mate? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrishill 0 Posted August 16, 2005 the best way i can describe it is that it feels like i've changed down from 5th to 3rd, and the revs are too high for the gear so you get, what feels like, heavy engine breaking. it lasts about a second then goes back to normal. While its happening the revs drop off totally. I've also had it randomly stall at junctions a couple of times. At the weekend Chris checked the MAF which was appeared to be working, as did the lamda probe. we checked the dizzy cap and leads and so on but its not like its loosing spark on one of the cylinders, its more like (in my limited understanding) the fuel being shut off for a breif second. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted August 16, 2005 Is this under acceleration, on part throttle cruise, or during deacceleration? When you're cruising along at say 55-60 at 2500rpm in 5th following traffic, does the car do this power cut feeling at certain rpms, throttle positions, say back off slightly? I'm kind of thinking a broken wire intermittantly losing circuit or a worn throttle position sensor.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrishill 0 Posted August 16, 2005 it doesnt really seem to follow a consistant pattern for when it happens, although I would say on average its happened under mild/gentle acceleration, say going from a 30 zone to 60 and taking it fairly easy. It seems to cruise fine in traffic situations, theres a oh so slight wavering in the revs but that could always be my imagination. someone else mentioned it might be the TPS, or that the ECU wasnt getting the right signal from the TPS and to reset it, which we did at the weekend. Is it a hard/expensive job changing the TPS in order to rule it out or cure the problem? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutch24V 0 Posted August 16, 2005 I paid 35 euro for a TPS from VW and it took 2 minutes to change. Once changed you must do a full ecu reset and basic settings though... Dutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrishill 0 Posted August 16, 2005 seems reasonable... i'll give vw a call now, cheers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted August 16, 2005 Yeah 'wavering' of the revs was the phrase I was looking for, or more appropriately, hunting! I.e. the engine isn't sure what it's trying to do...i.e. accelerate or deaccelerate and gives a lurching feeling. Most VRs I've driven do that to a degree on part throttle, some worse than others. It's either a worn TPS I reckon, or the TPS needs reharmonising using the basic settings so that the ECU knows more precisely where the throttle is for any given input. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrishill 0 Posted August 16, 2005 I just had a bit of a search for threads on the TPS and turned up one of your old ones kev, is the throttle potentiometer another name for the TPS? its just euro car parts have a potentiometer listed but not a TPS... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted August 16, 2005 I pulled the TPS plug off at idle and it made a difference so it's working in some capacity, that's not to say that it's accurate in every position but it's easy enough to check in a sweep, Chris i'll pop up and do a resistance sweep test for you. Give me a quick ring after work. Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
