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Riley

Please help my g60 - Err where were we? Page 42

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ian,i have a gas aniliser me self :D

 

can you tell me the correct procedure for this? sorry to be on such a crap/boring subject here :(

 

neil.

 

Run the car up to temp. Disconnect the blue temp sensor and block the breather ( if your boost return isn't already removed ) This puts the ECU into its 'setting mode' Adjust the CO to spec, using the CO pot, can't remember spec of the top of my head, im sure someone will confirm. Once set rev the car 3 times above 3000rpm. The ECU will then learn this setting. Recoonect blue temp sensor, and breather if applicable. Job done.

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Neil, did you ever get this sorted mate...?!

 

Thread ressurection.

Nope :( :shock:

 

Can't believe im still having this fecking problem after all this time...21 months? :(

 

Although a little progress has been made...

 

If i tape up the WOT switch,the problem (slow revving and popping) totally dissapears...

 

What this means i don't know.

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Aye,can appreciate that m8 :lol:

 

Once warm...it intermittently pops when hitting the throttle,and its slow to rev.

 

Tape the wot switch closed and all is well.

 

Neil.

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With all due respect guys...it could have been said a lot earlier in the thread...and i don't know of anybody around my way that could check it.

 

Ive asked for reccomendations on who could look at it but im always told g-werks who are a million miles away.Plus money is an issue,so it would have to be someone who can possibly do me a favour,or help out as cheaply as possible.

 

Neil.

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Put the carbon cannister back on in a false sense that it may cure this...

 

It didn't.

 

But now i have the big bangs out the exhaust on quick gear changes like i used to...car is also not starting first time...its always the second go that it starts.

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Yep,here's a list of everything ive changed.

 

Fuel filter.

ecu.

chip.

head gasket and all new exhaust/inlet gaskets.

Valves reground/re-seated.

New cam belt/tensioner and static timing spot on.

all sensors inc lambda.

ign timing bang on 6deg btdc.

co pot.

Injector loom.

Injectors (as of today)

Injector seals and caps.

pipe 1 meter long to ecu.

Spark plugs from vw £70 feckin quid!

Spark plug leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm.

Dizzy itself.

New throttle body gaskets.

New throttle body switches.

All earths cleaned up with emory and replaced.

Alternater.

Voltage regulator.

fpr.

 

Probably more that ive forgotten...

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um slow to accelerate and popping during acceleration is normally caused by timing being off... someone could have marked it wrong..... normally running lean if you are retarded on timing...? I think thats right, tape the WOT switch and the computer wants to dump more fuel, 02 sensor fixes this but if you hit the gas more, the fuel should dump in there.

 

really think its the timing here, YOU NEED TO CHECK THE AFR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GET A GAUGE !!!!!!

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Dont know anything about G60s or AFRs, but what about a fuel filter change?

Didnt see it in the list.

Apologies if it has been changed - and Good Luck, Riley.

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Just a thought but if the problem gose away with the WOT switch taped up I wonder if the switch cable

is shorting when the WOT switch is open?

 

Would be worth checking with a meter from the switch itsself to the ECU end of the loom, just in case the ECU

is getting the idle value untill you hit WOT!

 

again sorry if you have already tried this just chucking ideas in hope you get it sorted mate cant imagine how

pissed with this you must be by now!!

 

Cheers

 

Dan

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get your wallet out stop messing about and take teh car to a specialist,, this has gone on too long,,

 

earths lambda wiring, o2 sensor knock sensor, crank pulley bolt, fule pressure, fuel pump wiring harness,

everything needs to be checked,,

 

bet its something glaringly simple,,

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Just a thought but if the problem gose away with the WOT switch taped up I wonder if the switch cable

is shorting when the WOT switch is open?

Would be worth checking with a meter from the switch itsself to the ECU end of the loom, just in case the ECU

is getting the idle value untill you hit WOT!

again sorry if you have already tried this just chucking ideas in hope you get it sorted mate cant imagine how

pissed with this you must be by now!!

Cheers

 

Dan

 

Thanks Dan,this is the kind of post i like to read.

Is it something that could happen?

 

get your wallet out stop messing about and take teh car to a specialist,, this has gone on too long,,

earths lambda wiring, o2 sensor knock sensor, crank pulley bolt, fule pressure, fuel pump wiring harness,

everything needs to be checked,,

bet its something glaringly simple,,

 

Sorry m8,but i think you fail to appreciate my position here...Ive spent around 1k trying to sort this...

 

Ive been to garages who have wrongly diagnosed it time after time...Most costly was when i was told it was a sticking valve...so to save labour charges i took the head off and reseated everything myself.Can you imagine how p|ssed off i was when it fired up first turn of the key still doing it?

 

Spent countless late nights trying to figure it out...

 

Im in debt,and ive had to give up work due to illness.

So simply getting the wallet out is not an option. :?

Everything you mention has been checked,except for the knock sensor...which when unplugged dosn't cure it.If it was something so simple...im sure someone somewhere off the forums would have found the cause by now.

 

What do you think to Dans suggestion above?

 

Im with the fuel filter guy after looking at symptoms of a bad fuel filter.

Fuel filter changed :( will add it to the list.

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Niel think about it like this.

 

you arent getting enough fuel, sooooo WOT wiring to ECU could be busted...? like the guy said idle fuel till WOT is opened then it dumps fuel.

 

fuel injector wiring harness busted? that would make sense too. but the car would sound like it was running 3 cylinders.

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