anyone had problems with there solid engine mounts

[JT 0]

since a couple of days ago i have some movement somewhere :!: i have checked the usual: ball joints, top mounts (slight movement but nothing excessive) tie rods, wishbones (there new) arb, and drop links all seem to be ok,

 

i spoke to the previous owner and he mentioned the the bolt through the solid front mount (JMR) dropped it's nut so had it replaced and put some bolt lock on it to stop it from happening again, is this common, do they occasionally snap, has anyone else had any problems with there mounts :?:

[Chris VR6nos 0]

The solid mount it non flexing so you take that the way it is and if it causes damage tearing or flexing then that's the result, and is why the mount is meant to have some flex in it!

The bolt or stud and nut should be ok as they are tightened up but one little bit of play and it can snap after flexing over time that's a given so check carefully all the area and the fixings.

The only thing i can advise for the future is to get a performance emount with some flexible region built in!

 

 

 

Chris

[bcstudent 0]

Hmmm....having just agreed to buy a sold front mount from a forum member I'm a little worried by this thread!

[Henny 0]

JT-G60, It's not normal for them to shear bolts off as Chris VR6nos, says, so it probably wasn't tightened properly when first installed... as to the end bit of what Chris says, however, I'm afraid I disagree...

 

...the front crossbeam/subframe is mounted on rubber bushes... As long as these are in reasonable condition then there IS still some flex left in the mounting at the front of the engine. and so running a solid mount shouldn't damage/tear anything else...

 

I've been running a solid front mount for a few months now with no problems whatsoever... If you've seen some of the aftermarket poly mounts, you'll realise that they've got sod all movement in them anyway!

 

If anyone remembers how much J-DUB's engine threw itself around in the engine bay while at the Stealth roller session last year, then they'll know that normal mounts just aren't all that good for a tuned/tweaked/messed with engine.

[JT 0]

nice one henny... well i have just got off the phone to g-werks :)

and its soon to be going in for the chip and pulley and probably a new rad as it's still the original one, best thing i can do is have another good look and if i can't see anything darren said he would give the car a good look over anyway and maybe that will turn up what it is, like i say it's not excessive just there now and again so who knows..... :D

[Henny 0]

where can you feel/see the movement? If it's through the steering it could well be a dead rack mount... :?:

[JT 0]

basically it's when i hit a rough bit of ground with both front wheels theres a deffinate bit of movement more noise than actuall feel through the wheel, i'm not ruling out the rack, if it was how and where should i look... checked the mount by putting it in first, handbrake on lift clutch slowly etc, and it can't be the mount as there was no movement at alll

 

as i say none of these (wishbones,arb,tie rods, ball joints) seem the be the reason, going to get the top mounts done in the next couple of weeks, but there not exactly bad, then it's in for the chip and pulley, so i would like to get it sorted before then.....

[Henny 0]

could simply be the top mounts or the rack mounts then...

 

Try the same trick as before with the handbrake, but in reverse as this will show up dead rear/gearbox mounts too... ;)

[JT 0]

rack mounts!!!! are they reasonably simple/cheap or painfull and expensive :?: i take it they are right at the end of rack...

[Henny 0]

Rack mounts are just the big bits of rubber 'n metal straps what hold the rack onto the subframe. They're not too expensive to buy, but I have no idea how you'd fit them having never done it or tried to do it...

[JT 0]

well tried it in reverse buddy and no noise there... so not the gearbox.... racks mount it could be then.... will have to get some to check it out will keep ya posted..... has anyone out there done this job :?:

[Garry 0]

I'm in the process of changing my steering rack - I'll let you know when I have finished (If the rain ever stops!!!!!)

 

Don't worry about the solid mount - as Henny pointed out, the front cross member is rubber mounted and will give a little. I've been running my own brand of solid mount for 6k miles with no issues at all.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

ChrisVR6NOS is right. Take away the engine mount flex and you increase the chance shearing something.

 

This flexing cross member is codswallop. Yes it does move a bit courtesy of the rubber mounts but it's peace meal. They are nothing more than buffers that allow some residual movement after the engine mount has absorbed the huge initial shock when you punch the gas in second gear for example. Think about it.....you're going from rest to full strain in an instant several times each journey, and you're relying on the cross member bushes for compliance? Rather you lot than me. All your doing is effectively pulling the middle of the crossmember out of shape, slowly but surely.

I've seen subframes split from using solid mounts..... 6K is hardly a useful time frame for comparison to a standard rubber mount that lasts 10 years and doesn't put any undue strain on the s/frame at all.

[Garry 0]

So JMR, G-Werks, my self and all the other engineering companies who produce these are talking out of our backsides then?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

No, you're quite right.... it's VW that should know better. Fancy using rubber to absorb engine movement? Tsk, what ever next? Rubber top mounts?

[Garry 0]

Whatever you say Kev

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yes indeed what ever I say.

 

As is often said, you pays your money and take your choices/chances.....

[RW1 0]

Fancy using rubber to absorb engine movement?

 

It's a compromise on all VW's to absorb engine vibration into the chassis v engine movement in the bay. Remember the original purchaser's at £17k to 22.5k expected something decent to drive. Today the owners are a different "market".

 

(Why did VW bring in the cable change, stop vibration into the pasenger cabin, it's all part of that "engineering" thoughts they had and continue to have).

 

I've had a vibrotechnics front mount for 7 years fitted at the front. Doesn't seem to doing anything naughty with cross frame but I suppose I don't drive enough miles but I do push the car but 190bhp these days is probably not the same as the "extras" being modded in by some peeps. It does still flex a little though I've noticed.

 

Given the engine "rotates" in the engine bay, would it be better to uprate the rear two mounts as well if the front one is done and the driving is going to be racey?

 

.

[Walesy 0]

i've had no problem with solid engine mounts, but then i havent had one.

 

im about to replace my front mount with a VAG part, its done the engine pround for the last 13 years, so i'm happy to replace it with another original.

 

i have however had problems with my dishwasher of late...i'l have to replace her soon with a younger model.. :)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Dishwashers can be a pain can't they.....especially when the rinse aid doesn't do what it says on the tin and you end up with a claggy mess on the wine glasses. tsk.

 

I found the best compromise to be Vibra front and rear mounts, a solid rubber gearbox mount in place of the useless viscous affair and yellow powerflex bushes in the cross member. Keeps the engine nice and still for better balance during hard cornering, but with no perceivable increase in engine vibration, but it's all personal choice at the end of....

[Supercharged 2]

i have however had problems with my dishwasher of late...i'l have to replace her soon with a younger model..

 

What exactly is the problem? The things that tend to go wrong are the inlet pumps (if you have hard water), elements and thermostats, all replaceable items for not much cost if you do it yourself...

 

http://shop.ezee-fix.co.uk/

 

As for mounts, VT all the way...

[JT 0]

garry... cheers buddy that would great.... i look forward to your knowledge....