Rory 0 Posted August 6, 2003 I really hate a less then perfect box :wink: . What i mean is when changing gear as fast as i can there is some resistance getting into gear (only when i really go for it), sometimes i have to put it back into neutral and try again especially in 1st. For a super slick change i have to change slower. Is it supposed to be like this? It doesnt feel broken and the car has only done 77k on an 95N VR6. The clutch bite is near the floor as well. So far from threads ive seen that i need to bleed the hydraulic clutch, change the g box oil and maybe change the engine mounts (the rear g box mount is leaking a bit of oil). P.S i know nothing bout g boxes so please be explicit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted August 6, 2003 Chaging the gear oil is always a good idea and sounds like the mounts need doing anyway... but if the bite is near to the floor it its quite likely you have a leak in the hydrolic system, check fluid levels and check the master and slave for signs of a leak... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60Jet 1 Posted August 6, 2003 changing gear as fast as possible is not always a good idea. the gearbox is simply not design for high speed shifting. I have a short shift and i dont move my arm any quicker than a normal car but the travel is less, thus if i try to rush it more then it doesn't like it. 1st gear should only be engaged at a vertual standstill on a C, there is more than enough torque to pull in 2nd from very low speeds. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rory 0 Posted August 7, 2003 Chaging the gear oil is always a good idea and sounds like the mounts need doing anyway... but if the bite is near to the floor it its quite likely you have a leak in the hydrolic system, check fluid levels and check the master and slave for signs of a leak... Where is the master/slave cylinder? Where do i check? Where is the fluid level? And how do i bleed it? Sorry for all the q's :oops: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60Jet 1 Posted August 7, 2003 Clutch Fluid is the same as brake fluid, and share the same pot. If you have a slave or master cylinder problem then you'd know about it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rory 0 Posted August 7, 2003 Checked the brake fliud a few months back and the pot was nearly empty :shock: so i filled it up. Then i put new pads on all round as the originals were nearly down to metal and the fluid almost overflowed so i worked out where the fluid had gone :oops: i.e once the pistons were pushed back in the fluid went back up. When the fluid was low could this have let in air effecting the performance of the clutch. Sounds like it needs bleeding but how? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2cc 0 Posted August 8, 2003 Yes, it is poss for air to get in the clutch system if the m/cyl level is low enough. Need two to bleed it. Open the slave nipple (don't you just love that word) push clutch pedal down (it will stay there of its own accord), close the nipple, pull pedal back up. Repeat as reqd. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scott 0 Posted August 8, 2003 Checked the brake fliud a few months back and the pot was nearly empty :shock: so i filled it up. Then i put new pads on all round as the originals were nearly down to metal and the fluid almost overflowed so i worked out where the fluid had gone :oops: i.e once the pistons were pushed back in the fluid went back up. When the fluid was low could this have let in air effecting the performance of the clutch. Sounds like it needs bleeding but how? Naughty, Naughty, Naughty!!! When EVER you push the pistons back in on the calipers on a car that has ABS then you MUST un do the bleed nipples on the calipers before pushing the pistons back in.... this prevents over flowing the brake resv. but also prevents you from damaging the ABS!!!!! I would bleed the whole lot again - starting with the brakes then work your way to the master cylinder and then the slave cylinder... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted August 8, 2003 Checked the brake fliud a few months back and the pot was nearly empty :shock: so i filled it up. Then i put new pads on all round as the originals were nearly down to metal and the fluid almost overflowed so i worked out where the fluid had gone :oops: i.e once the pistons were pushed back in the fluid went back up. When the fluid was low could this have let in air effecting the performance of the clutch. Sounds like it needs bleeding but how? Naughty, Naughty, Naughty!!! When EVER you push the pistons back in on the calipers on a car that has ABS then you MUST un do the bleed nipples on the calipers before pushing the pistons back in.... this prevents over flowing the brake resv. but also prevents you from damaging the ABS!!!!! I would bleed the whole lot again - starting with the brakes then work your way to the master cylinder and then the slave cylinder... Can i ask how do you damage the abs unit? :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rory 0 Posted August 8, 2003 Where is this slave cylinder/nipple anyone? Any pics? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted August 8, 2003 Look in from passanger front wing look down towards the box Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted August 8, 2003 I have a Vibratechnics front mount and Turn2 gearbox mount and I can change gear as fast as I like with no baulking or crunching. Engine mounts have always been an achilles heel on performance VWs. Reducing engine movement is a good start for better gearchanges. Only do full bore changes when the engine is fully up to temperature though otherwise you'll shred the synchro rings. Kev Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
