Trakx 0 Posted November 9, 2005 Hi people! :D After searching for a long time i realized that´s no information on G60 to Turbo. So after soo many times of collecting usefull information i gathered it was my time so submit some. All information is intended for turboing porpuses After a blown G-lader a built a Corrado turbo. Engine wise mods: stock bottom PG engine; light ported head; "285 pipercam"- its 268 degrees; red top injectors (from G-Werks); 3.5 FPR; SNS Chip directly from USA (i´m Portuguese by the way, sorry for any spelling mistake); no ISV at all; no carbon filter; no catalitic converter; sports exaust; cone air-filter; rerouted air ducts; dump valve; Apex boost valve, stock intercooler... and i thinks thats all the engine mods. So i installed a Garrett T28 turbo from a Nissan 200sx S14 (bought from UK), a Seat Ibiza 1.6 TDI exaust "collector"; a Forge Dump Valve; Apex Boost Valve; red top injectors; SNS turbo Chip and a lot of pipe(air ducts) work. The exaust collector needed some work to clear the admission collector In the end boosted it to 1.1 Bar = 16PSI and got 225 HP at crank :lol: At this point i must say that the bottom engine was stock and had good compression (12 bar across all for cylinders) Then i pumped up the pressure to 1.2-1.25 bar = 17.4-18.2 PSI and melted a piston :cry: (pushing it hard on the highway to unrevealing speeed numbers)!! :oops: These are all TRUE numbers and mods. (So i question some to run 20 :shock: PSI in stock bottoms- maybe ok for 10 secunds runs :roll: ) Next is my project history. All this data is from a VAmag Rolling Road : Stock Corrado G60 - 160 HP at crank + emission crontol devices taken off, rerouted air ducts, no ISV, Chip from sns and 3.5 fpr - 170 hp +"285 Pipercam" 268 deggre, rebuilt charger, 68mm pulley (note: still on stock exaust to this point) - 190 HP + everything above described - 225 HP Hope to be usefull Questions? Comments? (Now, after piston melted, its beeing built up with new pistons, ect and a new Garrett GT28R turbo. this time no more than 1.1 BAR :wink: Sorry for the "collectors" cant remenber the right word :oops: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trakx 0 Posted November 9, 2005 Forgot to say that the melted piston was result of Pinping from to much boost. Also that i thinks its important: If with one pulley you get 0.8 BAR, if you put an agressive cam, with the same pulley, you will not get the same 0.8 BAR. That´s because more air will enter the engine and so there´s less restrition. Keep in mind that with the same pulley the ladder airflow will be the same. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Monkey 0 Posted November 9, 2005 Interesting, i'm currently running a subaru IHI turbo on my g60, with an induction kit, cat bypass and jettex system and i'm seeing about 220bhp(fly) at 12-13psi. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VEEDUBBED 0 Posted November 9, 2005 You need fuel when turboing a g60 lump,i first fitted a normal KKK24 turbo on my 8v g60 motor and ran it with digi injection and a BBM chip, the car was ok but no cosworth eater,then i fitted a 'KR' series 16valve head on my g60 block and added a garret T3/4.60/.48 turbo running IAW/Weber injection lifted of a delta integrale,huge front mount intercooler etc,the static C/R was well low,~6.9/1 and low down the car was a bit of a slug,but after 3000rpm running 1.8bar boost(total..)the car would wipe out modified cosworths,wrxs etc,it also wrecked gearboxs,1 thing i never had problems with were melted pistons,rings etc and i use to stomp that motor all saterday nite racing other motors,G60 pistons/rods are immensly strong,you'll damage any piston forged or not with wrong fuelling,old fuel pump,blocked filters,unbalanced/parcially blocked injectors etc,always try and use a wide band when tuning under boost,the bare minimum would be an exhaust temp gauge+narrow band AFR meter. By the way,if you need any spares such as turbos,injectors,G-chargers let me know,xheers,Andrew. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trakx 0 Posted November 11, 2005 :shock: What a project!!! Congratulations!! I really dont have the balls to go anyfurther... to much time and worries already... and to much time spent in the garage instead of on the road!!! The problem, the melted piston, was not air/fuel related in my opinion. There are 3 main causes to engine breakdown. 1º- Engine internals can not withstand the energy liberted in the combustion, in this case you get a mechanical failure exp. bent rod 2º- Air/fuel related - engine goes lean, temperature goes high exp. melted piston 3º- (my case i beleave) Stock compression ratio + boost = dynamic compression. If this compression exceedes fuel capacity from selfdetonation (octane rating) = pinging which in turn results in high temperature Damage exp. melted piston, broken sparkplug ceramic By the way, how much hp on you car?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazzaG60 0 Posted November 11, 2005 got any pics of the piston? if fuel is ok which id expect the red tops are not at that level then id pull a few degrees timing and push that extra boost. start by pulling 2 degrees for every PSI if you have blown before. add a degree if its ok. general rule -1 degree for every psi Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stakis 0 Posted September 14, 2006 i am also doing g60 turbo conversion. What you people do with boost return, ISV? i think ISV and boost return must be removed if you add BOV, where is no more need of boost return pipes? Just block it? also ISV, is it required anymore? i am thinking of removing boost return pipe and blocking this hole on the throtel body, adding a small breather filter on head cover and removing all the ISV. please tell me more with pictures, what is the best for g60 turbo? As i said, i have BOV installed, bigger FMIC, green filter, etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kongo127 0 Posted September 14, 2006 Hello Trakx! Where abouts are you located? I´m in Lisbon! Corrado T60... Sounds nice! LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted September 14, 2006 Your cracked piston could have been caused by det. Running a turbo with a stock intercooler would have meant that unless you were fuelled up to the max, your intake temps must have been pretty darn high. Did the piston go bang on a particularly hot day? The GT28RS will be a much better turbo than the S14 non 360 thrust bearing job. Much faster spool time. The roller bearing T28's are good for 320ish bhp in the SR20DET. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
korayus 0 Posted September 14, 2006 How about Garret GT2554R turbo? I am thinking to buy this. My car is Corrado G60 8v turbo. However I dont know which turbo on it. But I am not happy with it with stock chip and stock FPR, injectors etc. Not I ordered 440cc 42lb) Delphi brand injectors which are betetrthan Bosch brand I think. And hope SNS stage 5 will make huge difference. The only problem is I get 1.1 bar betwen at 4000-5500 only. So I decide to change my turbo. As I can see the Garrett GT series GT2554R is the best I think. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... 1171_3.htm is anybody using this? I hop I will get high boost pressure (1.1 bar) at 3000 RPM. Koray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 14, 2006 Or the T3/T4E Turbo with .58 A/R and 45 Trim Compressor. Good for up to 350HP in 4Cyl Applications with good low end. Standard T3 4 bolt inlet and T3 5 bolt discharge exhaust. About $600. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazzaG60 0 Posted September 15, 2006 id go 50 trim with a 0.48 hotside myself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trakx 0 Posted April 28, 2007 New turbo Garrett 2554R boost at 1 bar from 3500rpm to redline at 2000 rpm it makes 0.5 bar no more sns chip. it never worked very well at high rpms (it was made for a 260 degree cam) forged wossner pistons lightened flywheel lightened and sharpened cranckcase shrick sport lifters 3.8 bar bosch FPR Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
junkie 0 Posted April 28, 2007 What sort of power is it making now? The IHI VF22 makes 0.5 bar at around 2500rpm and 1.5 bar at 3000rpm and holds till 7000rpm if needed to but its currently set up to tail off to 1.3 bar upto the redline. it holds 300bhp from around 4000ish rpm to the limiter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trakx 0 Posted April 28, 2007 haven´t dyno yet but expect 230-240 hp the turbo will do more boost. i have it to 1 bar i'm not thinking in going further as i go to track days and besides i still have stock corrado IC an NO aquamist, so i don´t want to melt another piston. i've never tried to retard ignition but i dont think i want to go that way. it is still my dayly drive, and has AC and all! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trakx 0 Posted April 28, 2007 i see you have the same cam as i!! piper 285 what chip do you use? what map sensor? (stock 2 bar absolute pressure) what FPR pressure? injectors? as you can read from previous posts i have had problems regarding the chip. Just coundn't take profit from the cam. and what do you mean with bighead? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
junkie 0 Posted April 28, 2007 Its mydaily drive too. Standard FPR 3 bar map sensor on aftermarket Haltech ECU440cc injectors Bighead is larger exhaust valves in the 8v head. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites