chrishill 0 Posted December 2, 2005 no, not for me! I'm going with a mate to look at a couple to replace his cooper S which has been nothing but trouble since he got it and has finally gone back to BMW to be melted down ;) I told him the mk4 golf was better but he likes the idea of the audi badge, and hes not a frantic driver (dispite the cooper S) so the softness of the bushes wont really bother him. any tips/advice on what to look for when viewing one? are there any major problems, recalls, common faults, imporant service points etc etc? cheers chaps! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted December 2, 2005 no, not for me! I'm going with a mate to look at a couple to replace his cooper S which has been nothing but trouble since he got it and has finally gone back to BMW to be melted down ;) I told him the mk4 golf was better but he likes the idea of the audi badge, and hes not a frantic driver (dispite the cooper S) so the softness of the bushes wont really bother him. any tips/advice on what to look for when viewing one? are there any major problems, recalls, common faults, imporant service points etc etc? cheers chaps! Pretty solid cars really, I'd get a post 2000 car though with drive by wire throttle, they're more tunable and you can easily upgrade to cruise control etc.. Don't rely on the VAG cambelt change interval, it's something stupid like 120,000 miles. Oh, the coilpacks on 2001 cars are duff (4 in total), check to see if they've been replaced, post 2002 cars should be OK. Air con need cleaning and re-gassing every 3 yrs or the system can spring leaks that cost a fortune to fix, climatronic is slightly better than the manual as it tends to get left on and helps lube the seals better. David. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrishill 0 Posted December 2, 2005 tunability isnt really an issue, my mates not really into modding his cars. All the other stuff's good though, I'll be able to look like I know what I'm talking about! :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaiosG60 PWR 0 Posted December 2, 2005 Sounds good advice to me! Those new VAG cambelt intervals are stupid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted December 2, 2005 Those new VAG cambelt intervals are stupid. Admittedly they are very long intervals, but I'm sure VAG don't quote them for a laugh, and I'm quite sure they have put a lot of effort into making sure they are save intervals too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted December 2, 2005 Those new VAG cambelt intervals are stupid. Admittedly they are very long intervals, but I'm sure VAG don't quote them for a laugh, and I'm quite sure they have put a lot of effort into making sure they are save intervals too. yeah, like my mk4 that stripped the plastic coating from it's tensionner and nearly wrecked the head at 50,000 miles and 3 years old :roll: better safe than very sorry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted December 2, 2005 The 1.8T's are very reliable, high mileage isn't a problem but I'm not sure about the variable service intervals - I know someone who is on 23k miles since the last change and the car is over 140k, Its not using any oil and it has the thin longlife stuff in there but surely this can't be good for the turbo... Just look out for worn suspension and inconsistent tyre wear, blown interior light bulbs are common and awkward to change, other than that the A3 is one of Audi's most reliably cars ever! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted December 2, 2005 better safe than very sorry. Agreed, and if it was my car I wouldn't leave it that long. On my dads Mk4 non turbo 20V, he changed the timing belt, at 60,000 miles, but not the tensioner, he then changed the belt and tensioner at 120,000 miles. At around 124,000 miles he randomly decided to inspect the belt, and to his horror the back of it was cracking. There is a small idler pulley (not the tensioner) which had seized due to bearing failure and cooked the new belt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted December 2, 2005 Check that the acceleration is smooth and even, especially in second. The N75 valve and the recirc/dump valve can fail. This doesn't always result in the engine light coming on, so can be quite hard to detect. If these are faulty, the car may lurch/surge a bit during acceleration. You'll need to boot it a few times to be sure, as they don't always do it. Both are an easy and relatively cheap fix if faulty. It's worth changing the recirc anyway for a Forge one as the standard Bosche item is a bit crap... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted December 2, 2005 Agreed, and if it was my car I wouldn't leave it that long. On my dads Mk4 non turbo 20V, he changed the timing belt, at 60,000 miles, but not the tensioner, he then changed the belt and tensioner at 120,000 miles. At around 124,000 miles he randomly decided to inspect the belt, and to his horror the back of it was cracking. There is a small idler pulley (not the tensioner) which had seized due to bearing failure and cooked the new belt. Yep, VAG specify that the lot should be done... On the TDI i'm doing the belt, tensioner, idler roller thing and water pump... Andy, good advice - I changed the N75, was about £25 quid on the TDi altho I accidently got charged 75p +vat :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted December 3, 2005 Steve, was is throwing up a fault code for the N75? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 1 Posted December 3, 2005 Check that the acceleration is smooth and even, especially in second. The N75 valve and the recirc/dump valve can fail. This doesn't always result in the engine light coming on, so can be quite hard to detect. If these are faulty, the car may lurch/surge a bit during acceleration. You'll need to boot it a few times to be sure, as they don't always do it. Both are an easy and relatively cheap fix if faulty. It's worth changing the recirc anyway for a Forge one as the standard Bosche item is a bit crap... Sorry to go OT but this is of interest to me! Do you know if this affects the TDI's too mate? I often find power delivery in mine very inconsistent and flat on occasions.. kinda like you start to accelerate, it tails off a little, then picks up again. Obviously the RR day didn't highlight any issues but my problem sounds exactly like what you describe! Any any more info on how to change the N75 please? :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted December 3, 2005 A lot of the 1.8T boys have been suffering these symtoms, and it usually seems to be the N75 or a split diaphram in the D.V. For £25 it's prob worth a shot. This is a pic of it on the 1.8T. Not sure exactly where it is on the TDI- sure Steve will pipe up soon! Looks like a diddle to swap- just unplug/unclip etc and fit the new one. 5 minute job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 1 Posted December 3, 2005 I'm sure this is a part that Steve has talked about before on his TDI - the boost control valve or something similar. Apparently on the TDI you can change it for the one from a PD130/PD150 and it alters the power delivery in quite a good way for PD115 engines. Would be a doubley good reason to swap if that is indeed the part. Where is he when you need him! Steve??? :D *edit* Ah.. BIG discussion on this on UK MKIV's about this.. think i'll be going to my dealer on Monday to order a new N75! Totally changes the way the PD115 drives - eliminates any weird surges and smooths out the torque curve nicely - and all for £25! :) http://www.uk-mkivs.net/forums/362511/ShowPost.aspx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted December 3, 2005 Yo! Quite funny this as I was ay Audioscape today when this guy turns up in a mk4 115 (same engine as you and me jim) complaining how slow it is... I drive it and he's right, it's completly flat, no torque and feels like the turbo is not there... I had the old valve in the car that I know works so decided to try that but it didn't seem to help (altho I'm now thinking I should have reset the ECU as I did when I changed mine but this may only be because I used the 130PD valve..) This is what the article above is about Jim and the part number ends in B instead of A and seemed to make a difference on mine and might explain why your torque figure on the rollers was higher? Yep, the boost control valve (N75) is £25 altho Neil charged me 85p by accident and then took 10% off that, lol - top bloke! Easy enough to swap, 2 10mm bolts near the windscreen and 3 vac hoses and a plug... vac hoses are hard to get off but just pull em and make sure you put them on the new one correctly, also disconnect the bat or ECU for while you swap them for a reset then drive it straigh away. Anyway, me and Kev went to pick up the VAGCOM laptop, came back and scanned in but nothing engine related, just a climotronic fault and another for the imob... I'm sure his fault is sensor related as it drives fine just very sluggish - maybe in limp mode (see the doc I printed for you Jim), I'm thinking it's something operating out of range that VAGCOM doesn't thro a fault for maybe TPS or MAF, I really need to learn more about the software! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrishill 0 Posted December 3, 2005 cheers for the tips guys, turns out the 1.8t he wanted to look at was a previous cat-d, it said so in the autotrader advert but my mate didnt know what it meant! tagged along with him today to look at some others since he decided to leave it and he ended up buying a very nice P-reg silver 1.6, 77k, clean as a whistle save for a couple of bits of interior trim coming loose and a squeaky cam belt which went after 5mins of the engine running, so I dont think its anything to worry about although I advised him to get it changed ASAP. he paid £3200 for it which I think is a cracking deal! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted December 3, 2005 Who changed the Cambelt last?? if it was an independant garage they probably didn't change the roller - get it done again asap! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
owen01 0 Posted December 13, 2005 Check that the acceleration is smooth and even, especially in second. The N75 valve and the recirc/dump valve can fail. This doesn't always result in the engine light coming on, so can be quite hard to detect. If these are faulty, the car may lurch/surge a bit during acceleration. You'll need to boot it a few times to be sure, as they don't always do it. Both are an easy and relatively cheap fix if faulty. It's worth changing the recirc anyway for a Forge one as the standard Bosche item is a bit crap...[/ :roll: :roll: quote] sorry for sounding stupid but what is n75 valve and where is it ?? i have an a3 with similar probs to what you mentioned and i would like to try changing it see if it sorts out the problem Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted December 14, 2005 owen01, welcome to the forum, The N75's are usually mounted near the ECU / firewall at the back of the engine.... a small black valve type unit with an elctrical connection and some vac pipes going to it, usually held on by 2 10mm nuts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted December 14, 2005 owen01, check out the engine bay pic on the last page :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
owen01 0 Posted December 14, 2005 cheers guys ive got one on order i just hope this sorts out the irritating problem.is it just fit it the new one and drive??another question can anyone help ive a 2002 quattro 1.8t 5v my mates wrapped up his x reg gti 1.8t 20v it has a superchip on it will it go on mine if so were is it and what sort of a job is it to change it??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted December 15, 2005 Yep, just swap in the new N75 and off you go. Not sure about the Superchip. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
devils_advocate 0 Posted December 15, 2005 You will have to check the numbers printed on the ECUs which is located under under the windscreen, you will have to undo the windscreen wiper. You will need a pro to swap the chips around unless you are very handy with a soldering iron. I sent my ECU off to Germany and got the chip and installation for £180 including £40 for p+p. Most UK companies are charging between £300-550. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 1 Posted December 15, 2005 Even I, the worlds worst mechanic managed to switch the N75 valve over. Admittedly it did result in a few cuts and bruised knuckles but it was straightforward enough to do! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted December 15, 2005 Jim, has it made any difference? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
