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Stan 24v

Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

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KipVR, that Mk1 G60 looks very nice. If you're going for the same factory look with this coversion it's going to be a lot of work. One of the other reasons mine took so long.

 

Stan, just got this back from Andy at PSI:

 

"The original 24v clocks pick up the RPM sensor from the crank sensor to the ECU, this gets sent to the 24v clocks by CAN DATA down the orange black/orange brown wires. When we do the 24v conversion on the Mk2s and Corrados we swap the clocks to a set of 4 cylinder type then run a wire direct from the hall sensor on the side of the cylinder head direct to the clock pod.

This will give you an accurate RPM reading."

 

Not sure what he means by "swap the clocks to a set of 4 cylinder type" as I thought you were running the standard Corrado clocks?

 

Anyhows, I'm going to check my wiring diagrams and see. Might have a go at the wiring this weekend, weather depending of course.

 

Dutch

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KipVR, that Mk1 G60 looks very nice. If you're going for the same factory look with this coversion it's going to be a lot of work. One of the other reasons mine took so long.

 

Stan, just got this back from Andy at PSI:

 

"The original 24v clocks pick up the RPM sensor from the crank sensor to the ECU, this gets sent to the 24v clocks by CAN DATA down the orange black/orange brown wires. When we do the 24v conversion on the Mk2s and Corrados we swap the clocks to a set of 4 cylinder type then run a wire direct from the hall sensor on the side of the cylinder head direct to the clock pod.

This will give you an accurate RPM reading."

 

Not sure what he means by "swap the clocks to a set of 4 cylinder type" as I thought you were running the standard Corrado clocks?

 

Anyhows, I'm going to check my wiring diagrams and see. Might have a go at the wiring this weekend, weather depending of course.

 

Dutch

 

I think he means if you want Mk4 clocks then you need to use 4 cylinder ones. Mine did have C clocks.

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If I was going to use mkiv clocks I'd use the v6 4motion ones :p :D

 

I'm thinking the same as kip now and I'm guessing the replacement instrument cluster you had was from a 16v Corrado, which afaik too is the same as the later VR one?

 

According to Bentley the rpm signal goes to pin 7 of the 28-pin instrument cluster connector. Can anyone confirm if this is the case on EU/UK cars?

 

Dutch

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After months of headache's trying to keep standard dash clocks i have now fitted 98 passat syncro clocks and they look funky in blue just need to recalibrate speedo,I think i have had more problems sorting the clocks out than any other part of my build.I tried later corrado clocks and could not stop the erratic tacho,the passat clocks also are non can-bus up untill mid 99.(using speed signal from a/c control panel).another solution and being vw clocks don't look out of place.

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If I was going to use mkiv clocks I'd use the v6 4motion ones :p :D

 

I'm thinking the same as kip now and I'm guessing the replacement instrument cluster you had was from a 16v Corrado, which afaik too is the same as the later VR one?

 

According to Bentley the rpm signal goes to pin 7 of the 28-pin instrument cluster connector. Can anyone confirm if this is the case on EU/UK cars?

 

Dutch

 

Did the later 16v have the same Corrado emblem, orange/red needles, and same rev counter up to 7k? If so then maybe.

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Did the later 16v have the same Corrado emblem, orange/red needles, and same rev counter up to 7k? If so then maybe.

 

Yes I believe it did Stanley.

 

Dutch

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This finally arrived today, but didn't come with all the bits I asked for (downpipes, CAT's, fusebox and a few other bits) so a little pi55ed off...and it has a cracked sump, that looks as if was done during the accident. I've yet to get hold of motorsinmotion whom I bought it through but I think there won't be a problem. Anyway, does anyone know what the hell the bit in the second pic is? It's on the water system mounted in front of the oil filter head/cooler.

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Its a secondary air pump mate, not 100% sure what its used for though to be honest. Im sure mine was removed, and I think Dutch has removed his too.

 

I'd be suspect over that cracked sump! If it happened whil the engine was running then it may be fooked!!!

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Yep, aux. air pump. It injects air behind the exhaust valves to help heat the CATS during cold starts.

 

You can't just remove it though as the ECU monitors the rear o2 sensors to check if it's working and will throw an error if it's not.

When you get the ecu re-flashed they can delete it from the programming along with the rear o2 sensors, as they are only there for monitoring the air pump and the CATS.

You can then ditch it along with the rear o2 sensors. You'll have to remove it anyway though as it'll foul your radiator/cross-member when you mount the engine in the Corrado

 

I made a blanking plate for the valve on the back of the cylinder head with some 5mm aluminium plate and a gasket just to make sure it was sealed off properly.

 

Dutch

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cheers for that on the air pump, I thought it was ditchable as had not seen it on any other conversions. I'm seriously considering sending the engine back and getting a refund (I'll need luck with that!) as I'm concerned about the cracked sump. Why can't you trust people to give you what they say. :?

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Can anyone tell me just how much of the loom I need from inside the donor car? The trouble I have is that I'm ordering the parts over the phone and therefore can't look for myself at the TT it's coming out of. Basically I think I need the relay plate off of the fusebox with the realys and what else? Anyone? PS I'm not going down the 24V backing plate/key route, I've got the ECU flased. Do I actually need the whole fusebox? I currently have all of the engine bay loom and the connectors that come out of the fusebox and that's it, they are sending me the rest on but don't know what I need. Is a TT different from a Mk4, because they are also telling me that the fusebox is integral to the wiring loom and that you can't really get it out....

 

I thought you would need the fusebox to connect the wiring loom into and then use the realy plate for the relays...Or does the engine loom plug into the back of the relay plate. Man I wish I could see the car all this is coming out of, but its a day's drive away....

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Not sure if the TT has the same wiring/relay plate and fuse box as a mkiv, but you only need the relay plate, not the complete fuse box.

 

Run the main battery +ve feed to the mkiv relay plate, and from there to the Corrado fuse box main power supply. This way everything on the Corrado runs as normal off the original fuse box. You then only have to adapt the TT engine harness loom to plug into the 3 white engine harness connectors on the C fuse box instead of the mkiv fuse box.

 

The main reason for using the mkiv relay plate is the fuel pump relay, as obviously the 12v one won't work anymore as you don't have the 12v ecu connected to it.

 

You also need the part of the engine loom with the 4 12-pin connectors. They are brown, black, orange and white and run though the bulkhead to the fuse box. It's mainly this wiring you will need to adapt to plug into the C fuse box.

 

If you have this loom, the complete engine harness and the relay plate you should be fine.

 

Dutch

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Thanks Dutch, I have everythig except the realy plate then, thats a relief!! I'm hoping to make a start on the car very soon.............................................................................................when it stops raining maybe!! :lol: actually waiting for some clutch bits to come in from VW..

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Hi everyone, my 1st post here on the corrado forum, would anyone know the correct torque settings for the big ends and main bearing caps... for a: November 2004 vintage vw v6 3.2 L engine.

 

Many thanks

 

 

This is a genuine question, not some spotty school kid, if possible a speedy response would be very welcome, maybe I can return the favour.

 

Regards

 

DJ

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howdy gents, merry xmas and all that pish :)

 

i was wondering - read earlier in this thread and it was asked, but with no definite response -

 

does anyone know if the r32 engine out of a mk V will fit straight into a C, also was wondering about the passat r36 engine - not gonna happen to my car for about a year yet, but will give me something to think about in the mean time!

 

cheers again

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howdy gents, merry xmas and all that pish :)

 

i was wondering - read earlier in this thread and it was asked, but with no definite response -

 

does anyone know if the r32 engine out of a mk V will fit straight into a C, also was wondering about the passat r36 engine - not gonna happen to my car for about a year yet, but will give me something to think about in the mean time!

 

cheers again

 

Have a bit of a search, a few people looked into R36 conversions, and it isn't practical at the moment because of the FSi technology used. Basically you'll need a passat to nick the loom, ecu etc out of to get it to run, there isn't a standalone that has amplifiers to operate the injectors. And it needs 10 lambda probes...

 

Think the new R32s are FSi too, so you'll get the same issues.

 

Storm developments have some R36s and are supposed to be fitting them to R32 Golfs, but I've no idea if they actually work properly, I'd doubt it going on evidence I've seen.

 

Check out this thread

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cheers for that - in all honesty i don't want that much power anyway - going for about 250ish, so the r32 will do nicely - would have liked the mk V, but with the FSI it doesn't sounds feasable - never mind, guess i'll have to be happy with the mk IV !!!

 

cheers again

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If you want a 3.2 engine with less miles, go for an Audi one....still using them in A3's, the last shape TT, and a few other models, bit easier to find and there is no problem with the Throttle body hitting the bonnet as it is rotated 45 degrees......

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I've heard of an R36 mk2 conversion over here btw.

 

The FSI issue (100 bar fuel pressure) is not really an issue as the fuel is only at that pressure inside the engine. There is high pressure pump built into the head that supplies the injectors via an internal fuel rail, the fuel supply going into the engine is at normalish pressure.

 

The engine is taller though so the mounts have to be hacked to get the engine to sit lower, but then the sump sits fairly low so a protective shield of some sort is needed.

 

The 10 lambda's or however many there are can be deleted with a remap, just like the post-cat ones on the 2.8/r32 conversions. Most of them are only there for emissions anyway.

 

Dutch

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Hello.

I've just read through this whole thread as i really want to do the 24V conversion on mine, which is a G60. I know Renshaws was a G60 before, has anyone else converted a G60 to 24V?

I may have chance to get a Golf 4mo engine.

 

Is it really that much harder to do on a G60? As far as i can make out, including all the parts for a conversion on a VR6, i would need a VR Gearbox. Subframe and Slam Panel.

I'm assuming i need VR Driveshafts? What about the Hubs? Would i need to convert to 5 stud, meaning new brakes and wheels too? Could i use a Mk3 Golf VR Box? Is it the same as the Corrado box?

Also, i would want to run Air-Con, could i use a Mk3 Golf Radiator and Air-Con parts? Or is the top hose on the Golf Rad in the wrong position?

Any advise would be much appreciated.

 

Matt

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Not sure about using the mkIII air-conditioning parts but you will have to modify the front cross member to be able to fit the air conditioning compressor with the 24v engine as it sits further away from the engine block than on a 12v.

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Thanks mate.

I had good read through Renshaws thread, he used the Mk4 compressor and mentioned modding the cross member.

Would anyone know if i would need a Steering Rack out of a VR as well ??

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