Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[gc 0]

Based on the 93 SLC diagram I've been using to research my conversion, I think you need to run a wire from terminal 9 on the orange 10 pin connector of the mk IV harness to terminal 12 of the G1 connector on the Corrado fuse box. This should essentially replicate the way the rpm signal gets to the Corrado clocks with the stock 12V system. Connector G1 should be the 12 point white connector with the alignment pin on the edge of the connector.

Have any of you attempted to do a hybrid Corrado/mkIV set of clocks? Specifically keep the Corrado speedometer, tachometer, and fuel/coolant temperature gauges but replace the Corrado LED display with the mkIV displays. I am currently planning on keeping the bare circuit board from the mkIV clocks so I can retain the immobilizer feature. Since the board is there it seems like it should be possible to place the LCD display from the mkIV cluster in the Corrado cluster and run some wires between the circuit board and the LCD to allow it to work. This would then keep some of the convenience features (mileage tracking etc...) that would otherwise be lost when the 12V system is removed. I'm curious to see if anyone has attempted this.

 

GC

[CoxyLaad 0]

the normal trick is to strip the clocks bck down to the circuit board and just stuff it up behind the dash somwhere.

[Dutch24V 0]

Just PM'd you those wiring diagrams mate.

 

I can't confirm which wire goes to the fuse board for the rpm signal though because the colour wire that runs into the loom from pin 9 of the orange connector doesn't emerge again :?

I imagine it's been joined to another colour wire, but can't see which one unfortunately without unwrapping the loom. I might have a wiring tidy up tomorrow so will try and figure it out for you then.

 

I managed to get the fuel pump running of the 4motion fuel pump relay today btw :)

 

Dutch

[woz31 0]

pin 23 yellow and red wire for corrado clocks, unless you need the immobiliser use corrado clocks much easier

[gc 0]

Just PM'd you those wiring diagrams mate.

 

I can't confirm which wire goes to the fuse board for the rpm signal though because the colour wire that runs into the loom from pin 9 of the orange connector doesn't emerge again :?

I imagine it's been joined to another colour wire, but can't see which one unfortunately without unwrapping the loom. I might have a wiring tidy up tomorrow so will try and figure it out for you then.

 

Dutch

 

There may not be an existing wire that emerges from pin 9 on the orange connector depending on build date and options. According to the Bentley diagrams, cars that were built after April 2002 do not use this wire to provide the clocks with the RPM signal and so this wire isn't there on the passenger compartment side of the harness. This is the case with my harness so I'm going to run my own wire from the connector to the Corrado fuse box. The exception is if the car had the climatronic system in which case there would be a green and brown wire from terminal 9 to the climatronic control unit.

 

GC

[Dutch24V 0]

There is a wire emerging from pin 9, blue/white if I remember correctly. I will try to figure out where it goes.

 

Don't suppose you happen to know which pin on the diagnostic port the ABS diagnostic wire connects to?

 

Dutch

[CoxyLaad 0]

i thought all the K line wires just join together into the one?

I am certain they do

[CoxyLaad 0]

yeah I have the green and brown wire, most would have i would have thought, as most 4motions would have had climatronic.

 

going to see whats in pin 12 on my white corrado connector - ta.

[Dutch24V 0]

i thought all the K line wires just join together into the one?

I am certain they do

 

It would seem they do and I now have vag-com on both the ecu and abs :D

 

I think the earth wiring the diagnostics port was connected too in the 24v loom was picking up interference from somewhere, as I've just connected it up to the original diagnostic port earth and I can now connect to the 24v ecu.

 

Dutch

[dinkus 10]

So then chaps - what have you all done about the gearbox and driveshaft situation?

 

How many of you are running the 02M box and what have you done with getting the driveshafts to fit?

Have you done a cut 'n' shut with R32 inner CV and Corrado outer CV?

Or did you go for custom-made driveshafts?

If so how much were they and who did you get to make them? (Carl - I seem to remember you saying you got some custom ones made up for £500?)

 

Are any of you aware of any standard driveshafts that'll do the job?

[Stan 24v 0]

VR box bolts straight on with no changes required.

[dinkus 10]

Yeah, this I've heard...

 

Oh and you have a reply to your questions about throttles on vortex ;)

[cralstc 0]

Hi Guys I have done a conversion on my Corrado, I put a 3.2 Audi Engine into my Corrado, it is still not working I admit but it should fire up in the next couple of days. I had some major issues with the wiring harness and Immobaliser but hopefully it should all be fixed, fine and dandy.

 

The VR6 from a ABV engine does fit on the 3.2 with out any problems except a small amount of work on the fly wheel. With regards to the driveshafts they had to be modified slightly as they were slightly too large, so I had a machine shop make me a new set. They were not so expensive as fabrication in the UAE is very cheap. I actually very lucky to get my hands on a friends workshop and do most of the work myself. I think I have a couple of pictures will try and get hold of them.

 

The main problem I had was the wiring which I made a complete pigs ear of! :(

[Stan 24v 0]

Oh and you have a reply to your questions about throttles on vortex ;)

 

So do you :lol:

[Dutch24V 0]

I'm running the 02A box too. Bolts straight up and everything fits as standard.

 

Dutch

[woz31 0]

standard chn gearbox with quaife atb and standard diveshafts works fine for me

[woz31 0]

hi,anybody know the part number for a bigger brake master cylinder, too much travel since fitting 334 x 32mm front brakes and cant see it improving when the 256 x 22mm rear brakes get fitted anybody else running these brakes?

[Dutch24V 0]

No idea tbh. I'll ask a mate when I see him next week. I'm going for the TT 312 set-up early next year so presume I'm going to have a similar issue, except being a LHD car I have an electronic regulator which might cope better than the UK vacuum one?

 

I have two 5mm diameter vacuum pipes that I'm not 100% sure where to connect. They are blockled off at the moment.

One pipe comes of a t-piece on the crank case breather hose that runs along the back of the engine, the other comes off a t on the pipe that connects the carbon canister to the inlet manifold that also runs along the back of the engine. I'm not sure if they should just connect together or not? I've taken some pictures but not sure if they are clear enough to show the pipes concerned, but if anyone has any ideas? I can't figure them out on ETKA unfortunately.

 

Pipe A basically connects to the intake side of the TB and pipe B the vacuum side, hence it doesn't make sense, to me at least, that they should be connected together?

 

Dutch

[Dutch24V 0]

Is yours running yet Coxylaaad?

 

Did you manage to sort the wiring for the rev. counter? I've a new VSS but still get the intermittent speed sensor implausible signal error and the rev counter still fluctuates a little. I'll check all the wiring when I get a chance.

 

Dutch

[KipVR 1]

Ok I'm going to attempt to write a forum 'how to' for my 3.2 install which i'm starting this week. It helps to formulate some sort of install plan so as I can docuument everything in order...... so I'm creating a to do list beforehand, I know it's the sort of thing you missus does but bear with me. I would really appreciate any thoughts on this list because I haven't actually done it yet. Infact I haven't even seen a 24v engine bay!! I'm starting with an Audi 3.2 from a TT. Engine bay harness, ECU, DBW throttle and fusebox. TT Airbox. TT Tubular exhaust manifolds (VW 24V are cast and therefore of no use for cutting/shutting) and CAT's.

 

1.Send off ECU to Custom code or equivalent for flashing. This gets rid of the immobilizer problems, and I'm hoping the ABS/DSG and anything else the TT has to talk to except the engine.

 

2. Order/get the O'ring seals for the thermostat housing(as swapping the 12V one onto the 24V one), engine oil & filter, coolant and anything else for the new lump you feel is necessary.... Also consider clutch kit, clutch master and slave cylinders & PAS fluid, exhaust manifold nuts and gaskets. Header tank? Induction kit to replace airbox.

 

2. Steam clean engine bay and wheel arches, leave overnight to dry (maybe drain radiator now too)!! Maybe film your 12V running for ebay :lol:

 

3. Take off front bumper, bonnet, lights, grille, slam panel, radiator, battery etc.

 

4. Jack the car up, undo the exhaust manifold Drive shafts and rear engine mount.

 

5. Put the car back down and take off the air intake pipe/box, accelerator cable, gearchange cables, fuel lines (plug), and undo the engine wiring connector.

 

6. Get an engine hoist and hook it up to the engine, take the strain, and take out/off the engine/gearbox mounts. Take off the front subframe too. Then making sure all is free from the car, take the engine out. Split from the gearbox making sure you remember which bolts go where!! Send the gearbox off for a quaife diff :lol: Or just get it checked over in my case :(

 

7. Take off the scuttle covers and disconnect the ECU and diconnect all the engine bay wiring from the car.

 

8. Get inside the car and either do what I'm doing and take out the dash completely to do a heater matrix & car alarm change, or just take off all the lower trim around the fusebox to allow easier access to the fusebox and relays. ....and more immediately to the engine harness connector in the back of the fusebox, disconnect it. While under there take out the accelerator pedal.

 

9. Take the thermostat housing off the 12V motor and with the new seals put them on the 24V motor. Along with crack pipe etc??

 

10.Take the pas pump off the 12V and put it on the 24V, but use the 24V pulley. This ensures the rack gets the right pressure.

 

11. Get the 24V wiring and stick it into the engine bay!!!! ***Help needed here!!!*** Where doed the ECU go in the same place? Do you need to put in an extra wire for the oil pressure as the 24V doesent have a high oil pressure switch, or temp sender.

 

12.Weld in a bracket to the floor to house the DBW throttle. Plug the old throttle cable hole with a gromett!

 

13.Connect the 24V loom to the Corrado fusebox using the 24V realay plate. Again, not sure on this bit until I actually get to this point.

 

14.Good time to take out the factory fitted alarm if you have one, just so that you can get all the electrics working/tested without the influence of a 'third party' Maybe do the matrix too as it's maybe easier to get to bolts etc from the engine side. While I'm thinking about it put in the new Clutch master cylinder too.

 

15. Mate the 24V engine up to the 12V box, not forgetting the new clutch and slave cylinder.

 

16. Take the through bolt out of the 24V oil filter housing and replace it with the 12V one. Put on a Tee to house the high pressure switch and Oil Temp, Dutch knows about this I'm not 100% sure how yet but get the idea.

 

17. Hoist the new engine up and put it on the rear and two side mounts, Put the front cross member back on and welding a collar on the 12V front mount attach it to the 24V block????

 

18. Connect up the draiveshafts and gear change cables.

 

19. Put the radiator onto it's holes in the crossmember and connect up all the pipework and engine bay loom. Putting it into the holes described by someone very helpfull earlier on this site I'll have to check who, or else there are clearance issues- but his also depends on what model 24V you are putting in.

 

20. Put the battery back in (CHECKING FOR A SPARK, IF THERE IS CHECK YOUR WIRING) and the air intake/filter box. I really want to make my install look as factory as possible so I'll be trying really hard to use the Audi Airbox, only i hope it doesent have an Audi Stamp all over it, I really don't like Audis for some wierd reason, ironic eh! Mind you bar the Mk 5 Golf I wouldn't give any modern VW a second glance either...Rant over, no it's not actually, why can't they make an effing RWD car? Why this obsession with 4WD?? Fine for the big outpus but not for anythig with less than 350bhp, otherwise it's just too much weight to drag about. I think it's because they 'invented' the Quattro system and the Audi Bosses won't allow RWD car because that's what BMW do, FWD deppreciates over 230bhp so they are stuck with cars that suck, ie the S3/TT, with really dull steering despite being quick if tuned.

 

21. Get under the car, and figure out a way of knocking up an exhaust manifold. Make sure there is some flexibility in the down section like on the VR one. It really pisses me off when you see manifolds on road cars with soft engine mounts that have the flexi bit in the horizontal plane just before where the CAT would go on the VR, so that when the engine rotates under load, it tries to pull the joint apart, rather than compressing it, and then after two weeks of hard driving the exhaust leaks like a Rover. The best option is to go 3-1 flexi joint down round the bend to CAT's, 2-1 then Magnex. If there is enough interest in them i may get Janspeed to knock up a maniflod for this purpose, as I do a lot of 3D CAD work for them. Connect up the probes.

 

22. If all seems ok, try turning the engine over.If it turns over ok, connect up the fuel lines, put the 'front' of the car back on and connect up the PAS too, maybe do that earlier? Fill up with coolant, oil ,having put the new filter on!! They try to start it, checking the guages, and the making sure there are no wiring problems.

 

23 onwards just involves putting the dash back together, not forgetting to put the new alarm in first if you want to!!

 

Any thoughts or additions especially on wiring I'd like to hear them. Experiences with getting your ECU flashed, Air pump what's that all about?

[CoxyLaad 0]

dutch - i have had no time on my car at all mate, i may need you to come over and finish it off for me!

 

from what i recall, one of those vacuum pipes is for the auxilliary air valve thing, which you have ditched, so you dont need that. the pipe should run from the weird thing on the throttle body down the black vacuum box in the front of the car.

 

the other i am not sure about yet - hold on (runs into garage)...........and back!

right. one goes from a little cylinder just under the TB, thats the auxilliary air valve - disconnect that and block both ends off, its not needed.

the other one plugs into the back of the manifold and goes down to the black vacuum box at the front of the engine, actually providing it with vacuum. now, if you havent had that plugged in then your variable inlet manifold would not have been working at all, as its powered of that black box at the front.

 

yeah?

thanks anyway - just looked at my car for the first time in a fortnight!

[Dutch24V 0]

dutch - i have had no time on my car at all mate, i may need you to come over and finish it off for me!

 

lol, I'll drive over, swap the engines, and then finish yours off for you if you like? ;)

 

The pipe for the aux air valve is already blocked of mate and the vacuum for the black reservoir on the front is provided by the pipe marked X in the attached pic.

This pipe has a t-piece with another pipe coming off it that attaches to the FPR. This is all as standard AFAIK. (and the variable intake valve works fine btw.)

 

The other 2 pipes I mention may just connect together, but it just seems odd to me to have a connection between the vacuum side of the TB and the intake side if you get what I mean??

 

If you're feeding the vacuum reservoir and air valve with the pipes I mentioned previously, what does pipe X connect to on your set-up then?

Pipe A is not a vacuum btw, only B & X are.

 

 

 

KipVR, that's pretty good overview of what's involved. The part I would have struggled with even with the wiring diagrams for both engines would have been adapting the mkiv engine harness and relay panel to the Corrado fuse box. Luckily an auto electrician mate of Coxylaads had already done this :)

 

You should be able to mount the 24v ecu in the same location as the 12v one in your case. I mounted mine where it is due to having a LHD car and a RHD loom, which hence wasn't long enough (hard to explain why) to mount the ecu there.

 

You

[Stan 24v 0]

The ECU on mine was in the same place. I also had Custom-code to get rid of the lambda's.

 

With regards to the oil sensor Im sure I had an extra wire in mine too.

 

Also, you need a feed from the gearbox road speed sensor (I think) to sort out the fluctuating rev counter.

 

Keep is posted with pics and write ups in the members section Kip. Really looking forward to another 24v thread 8)

[KipVR 1]

Yeah will do, my engine was supposed to arrive on Tuesday but still hasn't arrived... :? The install will be well photographed when I do it though, mainly for those who wish to keep their corrado's running when their 12V get tired as mine has...(well it's a noisy tappet and that was good enough reason for me :lol:). I think a lot of people are in my situation where you look at your corrado, and despite the heater matrix and few other bits, most of it has either been replaced or is still in good nick, except for the engine. To get it reconditioned is as expensive if not more then the cost of a 24V and it's beyond most people's skill to completely refurbish an engine, and it's still a 12V engine after all the effort!! So I thought buy the newer engine, it's more powerfull, lighter, quieter and more refined, and the car will probably be worth more at the end of it rather than the same amount....

 

So I'm going to do what I wish I had - a 'how to fit a 24V guide' with a bit of help from you guys who already have them!!

 

This was my last engine conversion, a G60 into my Mk1 to give you a taster!!

[Stan 24v 0]

They are the exact reasons I did mine mate, besides the 24v is how the VR should have been in the first place :wink: