Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[datajon 0]

Kip looking closer, "this time with glasses on" they look lug mount.

[KipVR 1]

Hi Jon, they are lug mount, unlike most aftermarket brembos you see on here which makes spacing them out more difficult unfortunately but I can draw up an adapter, I'm more worried about them actually fitting inside the wheel I think!! You could get a 30mm disk on at a push. I'm going to ask Bruce who I got them off the dimensions of the RR Sport disk.

[datajon 0]

Kip, sometimes the use of an adapter bracket will not work with lug mount due to issues with offset and lug hole clashes, either a trade of using custom bells, or spacers between driver flange and wheel , or machining lugs to suit, 30mm thick is certainly a size to use, in general be able to run 330mm dia rotors inside 17" rims at a push.

[KipVR 1]

I'll email you some exact dimensions etc so as not to hijack the thread...

[bigpants baby 0]

To be fair, I think the only person who has done the conversion themselves who is still active on the forum is Dutch, and that's not a 3.2 it's a 2.8, so there isn't much help about!!

What about me

Oh im using the mk4 clocks

[andyvlw 0]

Bigpants Baby

 

Did you use the R32 gearbox, if so did you get the driveshafts re-machine or did you get new ones made.

 

Andy

[bigpants baby 0]

Bigpants Baby

 

Did you use the R32 gearbox, if so did you get the driveshafts re-machine or did you get new ones made.

 

Andy

Yes using o2m gearbox,I had some driveshafts made up.

[KipVR 1]

Sorry Carl buddy, forgot you'd done it too, how is it for everyday driving?

[ziderapple 0]

Hi, I've taken the plunge and gone for a 2.8 24v. Managed to get it trial fitted today just have some questions to ask.

where would this cut hose have gone?

 

 

Do I remove this completly or just block the hole off? what to do with the hoses/tubes going to it? Can I use the standard hoses to go through the throttle body?

 

 

I guess I should have removed this bracket??

 

 

Do I just need to put a sleeve / spacer in the open bit where the threaded part of the bolt is exposed?

 

 

Thanks in advance

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

1st pic a brake servo feed? so you would need to rerout your exsisting pipe.

 

2nd is the EGR valve,you would need to get the pipe to run to the exhaust manifolds? or back of head or delete it completly.

 

3rd pic is the MK4 later mounts,you wont need this so bin it.

 

4th pic would need a sleave or washers in there to space it.

 

but ive never fitted a 24v.... :lol:

[Dutch24V 0]

Hi all,

 

Sorry I haven't replied on here for a while, but life's been very busy of late :)

 

My C is still in for a re-spray and she's also not 100% finished mechanically or wiring wise yet either, so once I get her back and get back into the swing of things myself I might be able to help out a bit more. She's been away for 3 months or so now :(

 

With regards to the questions by ziderapple, CorradoVR6-n.o.s is spot on as usuall :) ...but pic 2 is the aux. air intake valve though and you shouldn't just block this up. It allows the secondary air pump to inject air behind the exhaust valves for various things and the o2 sensors look for a change when the ecu thinks the pumps running. If you simply block it up the ecu won't be happy and will throw o2 errors amoungst others. If you don't want to fit the sec. air pump then have the function removed from the ecu too with a reflash. Even then you will still have to fit the sec. air pump relay though otherwise the ecu will through yet another error! This is what I ended up doing along with removing and deleting the programming for the 2 after CAT o2 sensors too.

 

If you look at my thread in the members gallery you'll see some pics of the front engine mount, which I modified a little so it still mounts to the block in 2 places rather than 1 as in yours at the moment. The front mount is mounted to the engine by 3 bolts, 2 of which normally attach to the block. As the front moulding on the 24v block is missing you're effectively pivotting the mount via the bottom bolt on the block, with the aluminium gearbox housing taking the rest of the stress via the other 2 bolts. It might just be me but that seems like a lot of stress on that aluminium housing. It's not in the pics in my thread, but I have just placed a steel spacer in the gap you mention though.

 

Dutch

 

 

Dutch

[ziderapple 0]

Thanks for the reply James, need to have a look at servo feed - cant think what it looks like.. well actually, does it go on the front right hand side of the inlent mani?? I knew the bracket for the mount was wrong as soon as I saw it. Easy to do. Think I'll remove the EGR valve completely and make a blanking plate for the hole left on the head. Now know what I need to do for the engine mount - looking at a pic on Dutch's thread, a bit needs welding on to extend the front mount so it bolts onto the block, so the gearbox isnt taking all the strain.

 

See half way down this page: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=43338&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=15

[ziderapple 0]

Thanks for the info Dutch, you must have posted while I was typing my post out.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

Doh :ignore: aux air valve...forgot they had them,sorry about duff info mate !

[ziderapple 0]

Doh :ignore: aux air valve...forgot they had them,sorry about duff info mate !

 

Its just not good enough James!! :nono:

 

So, still not sure what to do with it, I can have the ecu reprogrammed to get past these issues, but I thought it was normal to delete the sec air pump, so I have, then I just assumed you'd block the aux air inlet off as well...??

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

just see waht happens,but dutch and stan have been down this road so they are the best to ask.

 

If it was me i would delete it and see how it runs,if you want it to run OEM then hook everything up as it was stock.

[KipVR 1]

The aux air valve is there to feed more oxygen into the exhaust pipe to make the CAT's hotter quicker (I believe) so I don't think it's very essential unless you worried about emissions or you cant package it then get the request codes deleted in the ECU and blank off the valve.

[Dutch24V 0]

Hi Chris,

 

There's a big discussion on vortex about deleting the sec. air pump on the 24v. Quite interesting, but not 100% conclusive :)

 

When I spoke to the owner of The VR6 Specialist over here he also advised removing it from the ecu too due to fueling issues besides the error codes.

 

It's not used for just pre-heating the CATS apparently, hence the fuelling concerns.

 

Dutch

[KipVR 1]

Chris, Dutch is totally right about the force going through the gearbox casing, you'd be silly not to weld on an extra bit onto the front mount as he's done, it's a massive amount of force that passes through it on a hot sticky day with big tyres....

[KipVR 1]

Hi dutch, so does it throw up issues if you do have it?? But that's what it runs with as standard surely?

[ziderapple 0]

Will be getting the mount welded up, sorry if I was abit vauge on the phone Chris, had literally just rolled the hoist away as you rang.

 

Is there enough room to keep the air pump? If so I'll leave it on, must be somewhere to squeeze it in. I thought it was just there for the cats, but if it carries out other functions then I'll try to keep it.

 

Not sure what air filter i need yet.. just remembered.

[Dutch24V 0]

Hi Kip,

 

You mean as installed OE, with the pump and all? Then no as when the pump runs normally the 2 pre-cat o2 sensors detect the o2 change in the exhaust gases and everything's happy. The ecu uses this extra o2 flow to perform some o2 sensor calibration/check tasks too apparently.

 

It's only an issue if you have removed the pump & valve without a re-flash, as the ecu still expects the o2 sensors to pick up a change when it thinks the pump is running and they don't, so it gets confused as it's not sure what has failed.

 

Dutch

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

leave it off chris and when you charge it and have it mapped, then it can be deleted :wave: :cheers: :tongue:

[ziderapple 0]

Just noticed in your thread Dutch that you have the sec air pump installed where the original air box was, have you since removed it? Why? :scratch:

 

Sorry for all the questions!

 

Will be a while before I can afford expensive go faster bits so need to get it working as standard first! Unless you want to donate your turbo and I'll find the money for the rest of the bits :lol:

[Dutch24V 0]

Yeah I did originally trial fit it, but as I was having the ecu remapped and the post cat o2's deleted anyway I thought I'd delete the aux. air pump/valve too.

 

No harm in keeping it, but I couldn't be bothered making up brackets to mount the pump tbh and it looked 'messy' :D

 

Dutch