pete_griff 0 Posted January 8, 2009 1. no it shouldn't matter about that at all 2. sorry but i'm unsure exactly as to the best way to carry out the wiring - i chickened out here and got someone else to do the wiring for me once i had done the mechanics. 3. for my r32 conversion i had to source a bracket from a 24v to make my alternator/pas setup work. afaik you should already have the bracket required on your 24v engine. it's only the mk5 r32 that causes problems, as it has electronic power steering, so the bracket is completely different. it shouldn't matter if it's an air-con or non air-con variant; if you're not using the aircon pump, then you can just leave it off and you shouldn't have any issues (again, afaik). you should be able to retain the existing tensioner/pulley from the 24v and use that with the 12v pas pump and either 12v/24v alternator (makes no difference which afaik). as for the belt you need - i can't remember the part number or anything like that (have a look through the definitive 24v thread for that), but i think the one you need is for a 24v golf and the non air-con variant (unless obviously you are planning to run it with air-con). on, and you don't have to remove the air-con; you can still do the install and retain the air-con without any dramas. (personally i would only do this though if your car already has air-con, as fitting the air-con system to a car that wasn't originally air-con is a bit of a mission). 4. i'm unsure if you will have to get a downpipe fabricated. i would honestly be surprised if the 24v one was a direct fit, but you won't know for certain until you try and fit it in all honesty! IMO, retaining the factory ecu is by far the way forward (unless you are looking to force-feed it at some point in the future). and it is better to retain as much from the new car as you can. my car has the diagnostics port from the mk5, so i still have full vag-com which is the nicest way of doing things. hope that helps :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Econis 0 Posted January 8, 2009 ok that helps out a ton, and my car is already a/c so if you say its no drama to keep it i might as well. It seems that the wiring is the hardest part, and i sort of am but not at the same time going to have some one do it for me. I've never done anything this extreme to a car before but i got a friend of a friend who does swaps all the time so im going to exchange his time for some cash cause i cant afford a real shop to do it. Thanks for the reply and the help should make planning this a lot easier. :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
herisites 0 Posted January 8, 2009 Might be worth having a look through THIS thread as most of your answers have probably been brought up before. Is that not the one he said he read Rob? Oh yeah, i only skimmed the questions so didn't read that! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted January 9, 2009 econis, are you putting an r32 or a 2.8 in? i think you need a little bit of cutting to fit the aircon pump in, its the auxillary water pump you need to remove. i was unsure about the automatic gb as well as it is tiptronic so didnt know whether the ecu was different or be mapped different. I've heard the 24v downpipes are a direct fit on the LHD cars but dont quote me on that, if you have one lying around try it before spending a load of cash getting one made up. If you want to remove 2 lambda sensors you will need your ecu remapped to remove them as it will not run properly if it still thinks there are 4 lambda sensors. As i havn't actually done the conversion this is just from research i've done though! hope this helps though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Econis 0 Posted January 9, 2009 I wish i was putting in an R32, but they aren't to common over here and i dont have that much money, so im putting in a 2.8. im even having a hard time finding one of the 2.8's with low milage for a decent price. Yea i am going to make sure that i get an ecu/ecm from a manual trans car and then im going to have a place near me called Dubwerks reflash it (taking out the immobiliser, the abs thing, and the second bank of lambadas/ and or what ever else needs to be done) As for the wiring.... i may also chicken out as i have never done that before and normally i would say hell yea lets do it, but i dont know the 2 systems in and out so i may no some one who will do it, plus this is my DD so i need it back up as soon as possible. (luckily i have a 96 prelude that i am driving at the moment, but i need the money from that to do the swap. Its a massive catch 22) yea i thought i read some where in the thread that LHD cars dont need custom downpipes. Im hoping anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 9, 2009 If the 24V engine is an auto (non DSG) and Drive by wire, the mapping will be different because of the kick down, but that can be remapped easily enough. The R32 with a BMC and stock ECU can be mapped to 275-280hp easily. Cams and a higher rev limit will see 300 horse. I honestly believe 100hp per litre is possible with the R32 lump. Just needs the right hardware and mapping. Easiest install I've seen so far is a MK5 R32 into MK2 Golf with VR6 clocks. Everything except the can bus rev counter signal can be bypassed in the ECU software. Stealth have managed to get round the rev counter issue, so worth chatting to them if you want to keep everything Corrado internally. if you're using the VR6 gearbox, then all the MFA functions will work as normal. Only the MPG won't work. All other MFA inputs are independant of the engine ECU. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted January 9, 2009 if you're using the VR6 gearbox, then all the MFA functions will work as normal. Only the MPG won't work. All other MFA inputs are independant of the engine ECU. how come the vr6 gearbox has to be used, cant the manual box be used? I was planning on going 6 speed r32 manual but nwo Im not sure Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted January 9, 2009 because the MFA functions work off the drive from the 5spd box - if you change the box, then presumably the drive will be different and it will confuse the MFA computer... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 9, 2009 I can't remember the exact details, but IIRC, the R32 gearbox uses a different hall sender for the vehicle speed signal which the VR6 clocks won't understand. The VR6 gearbox can handle the R32's power and torque no problem, so there's no reason not to use it unless you specifically want the 6 speeds from the R32 box, but in using that you need to lose the transfer box / diff to convert it to 2WD, not to mention the gearbox mount changes required. You can import an O2M gearbox from the states as they had FWD 24Vs, which is easier / neater than reworking a 4WD 02M.....but the weak £ v $ is not pleasant at the moment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted January 9, 2009 You can import an O2M gearbox from the states as they had FWD 24Vs, which is easier / neater than reworking a 4WD 02M.....but the weak £ v $ is not pleasant at the moment. that's interesting - i wasn't aware of that... do you know if those share the same mounts as the VR? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted January 10, 2009 i was going to buy mounts for the gearbox, and have bespoke driveshafts made up. I was also going to leave the rear output unconnected untill i get round to the 4wd conversion. anyone have any idea if the sensor from a vr can be fitted to the r32 box? I would rather have the r32 box for ratios, 4wd and better fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted January 10, 2009 Perhaps ask Carl (bigpantsbaby) on here he's got an unconnected 4wd box in his Corrado with R32 motor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted January 11, 2009 but he has r32 clocks, so only half the question can be answered. will pm him Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted January 11, 2009 Oh right, I thought he only had the backing plate, sorry. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC94VR 0 Posted January 28, 2009 HELP PLEASE Got mk5 3.2 bub 2006 engine last weekend :D Took engine out of c this weekend went fine btw now as i was swapping bits over i found that there was no location for the p/s pump to sit (due to electronic power steering )so i ordered the mk4 bracket that holds the alt a/c pump & p/s pump fits fine now my problem is wot belt tensioner to use, the mk5 one wont fit as the bracket where it bolted to i have removed and the one that is listed for the 4 is the same part number as the one fitted to my c originally and that don't fit due to interference with the inlet manifold has anyone else had this problem thanks for any help in advance cant wait to get it done now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted January 28, 2009 Hi mate, the one I'm using, TT 04 plate, fits fine. Use VAGCAT.com to find the part no. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted January 29, 2009 HELP PLEASE Got mk5 3.2 bub 2006 engine last weekend :D Took engine out of c this weekend went fine btw now as i was swapping bits over i found that there was no location for the p/s pump to sit (due to electronic power steering )so i ordered the mk4 bracket that holds the alt a/c pump & p/s pump fits fine now my problem is wot belt tensioner to use, the mk5 one wont fit as the bracket where it bolted to i have removed and the one that is listed for the 4 is the same part number as the one fitted to my c originally and that don't fit due to interference with the inlet manifold has anyone else had this problem thanks for any help in advance cant wait to get it done now. as kip says - the one from any of the older 24v engines will fit - they are all the same afaik - 2.8 up to the 3.2 :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andyvlw 0 Posted January 30, 2009 2005 BUB Engine with origonal bracket, and with 1994 VR6 bracket and belt tensioner PN 021 145 299 C Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
herisites 0 Posted February 3, 2009 2005 BUB Engine with origonal bracket, and with 1994 VR6 bracket and belt tensioner PN 021 145 299 C Is that the part number for the bracket or tensioner? I need to get the mk4 PAS bracket for mine so a part number would be rather handy! Do I need to change the tensioner with the bracket or is it just the bracket I need in order to run the VR's PAS pump etc? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andyvlw 0 Posted February 3, 2009 Is that the part number for the bracket or tensioner? I need to get the mk4 PAS bracket for mine so a part number would be rather handy! Do I need to change the tensioner with the bracket or is it just the bracket I need in order to run the VR's PAS pump etc? Tensioner 021145 299 Bracket 021 260 087 The tensioner and bracket no's cover Corrado VR's up to 95 and Golfs 92 up to 2001 inc 4 motions. I am using the VRs tensioner and bracket. The BUB tensioer is connected to the actual bracket and not the block like the VR, unless you are using the BUB's electric power steering and A/C then you don't need it. If you need a bracket then a scrappy or eaby would save you a bit of cash, as they are not cheap..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC94VR 0 Posted February 4, 2009 Cheers chaps ordered tensioner and fitted fine got a selection of belts and cos I am running it with no air-con and the one that fitted was the 6 rib 1250mm long. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted February 14, 2009 Anybody found a decent route for a cold air feed? Fitting a BMC soon will the cold air feed and looking at possible routes. Seems pretty limited in what you can do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tedman 0 Posted February 17, 2009 Anybody found a decent route for a cold air feed? Fitting a BMC soon will the cold air feed and looking at possible routes. Seems pretty limited in what you can do. what about this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jboyslick 0 Posted February 17, 2009 you can re locate the battery to the boot, that will give you some more space. I have had this done: 50 quid approx if some one does it for you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted February 17, 2009 Anybody found a decent route for a cold air feed? Fitting a BMC soon will the cold air feed and looking at possible routes. Seems pretty limited in what you can do. what about this? Mmm, thats a PsI car as well yet my PS reservior is in a different place. They must have moved the battery over as well as there is no room past mine. Long term plan is to put it in the boot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites