Beep beep beep beep oil pressure buzzer driving me mad

[spoier 0]

The damned beeping is back, it wasn't doing it for quite a while after I refreshed the wiring.

 

I'm going to just replace the sensors and see if that helps, but a few questions....

 

1. The two oil pressure sensors are just switches right? Should be open circuit or closed circuit, no inbetween values. Are they normally open or closed with the car off?

 

2. If you disconnect both pressure sensors shouldn't the damn thing stop beeping???

 

3. If you ground one or both sensor wires what should it do?

 

4. Do the sensor wires end up just going straight into the ECU? I'll go look at the wiring diagrams this weekend. Maybe there's a short in the loom or something :roll:

 

Thanks

Skye

[Banana Man 0]

I would replace both the pressure switches if I were you they're only about a tenners worth. If it still goes off especially round corners I would replace the oil pump as these are common faults with vw's my first golf gti went beserk every time I went round a right hand bend I ignored it thinking it was just a pressure sensor I was wrong and blew the bottom end out because it was the oil pump that had failed. They're not expensive and quite easy to do yourself and could save you the cost of a rebuild worth getting it checked at least

[spoier 0]

There's no pattern at all to when it goes off, not in corners, not when I'm flogging it, uphill, downhill, speed, temp, it just seems to be completely random....

 

Skye

[dazzyvr6 0]

i had that happen on my old 16v,had me worried for a bit,changed the both high and low pressure switches and it was fine from then on

[2cc 0]

putting oil in the sump usually works :lol: :lol:

 

falls off chair laughing

 

i'll get me coat

[spoier 0]

putting oil in the sump usually works :lol: :lol:

falls off chair laughing

i'll get me coat

 

Ohhh thanks hadn't thought of that :lol:

I've been putting oil in the washer fluid resevoir by mistake!

 

Good point though, I forgot to mention recent oil change to 20W50 and new filter, so that's not it.

 

I'll just change the damn sensors and hopefully be done with it.

 

Skye

[Dboy 0]

"putting oil in the sump usually works"

 

 

:rofl: lmao

[Dboy 0]

I've been putting oil in the washer fluid resevoir by mistake!

 

 

...that'll be the problem then

[biggrim 0]

Changing all the sensors sorted it for me matey!

[spoier 0]

I've been putting oil in the washer fluid resevoir by mistake!

...that'll be the problem then

 

Err that was a joke I hope you realize....

I'm not quite that daft

 

Skye

[Henny 0]

Changing all the sensors sorted it for me matey!

 

Eventually! :lol: :roll:

 

Skye: Just 'cos no-one else has answered your initial questions...

 

1) Yes, they are binary, on or off... not sure as to normal states though...

2) No, I'm not sure if they make a contact when at pressure, or break it... just dis-connecting them is a REALLY bad idea 'cos if it then develops a fault you won't know and will end up needing a new engine :shock:

3) See above...

4) No, the oil pressure and oil temp senders don't go anywhere near the ECU, they just go straight to the dash indicators...

 

Just to make the point, I'm not sure what engine you've got, but I'm guessing at a G60 which is what all of the above is aimed at... If you haven't got a G60 then this may all be twaddle 'cos I've no experience with the VR6 engines...

[spoier 0]

Hey Henny! Yes its a G60, I thought I was on the "other" board where it lists your year/model in your info on the left. Thanks for the info. I measured a sensor a while back and it was reading something inbetween open and closed like 2kOhms so I'm pretty sure they are bad.

 

I wouldn't drive around for any extended time with them disconnected, I was just curious for diagnostic purposes. I had the car sitting there idling, and disconnected both sensors, and it just kept on beeping at me. Strange eh? Maybe multiple problems (my favourite). Haven't tried grounding both sensor wires with the car running to see if it STARTS beeping though (didn't have a jumper wire handy)

 

Will be easy enough to tell if the switches are NC or NO when I get the new ones

 

Skye

[GazzaG60 0]

when does the buzzer sound?

 

if its on idle its the 0.4bar switch on the side of the head.

if its at 2100rpm then its the 2 bar switch.

 

drive it slowly upto 2100rpm n see if it sounds. do this a few times to confirm the test.

 

if the test ios inconclusive then get a oil pressure gauge.

[biggrim 0]

Just to be safe I replaced all 3 sensors and so far no beeps and correct temperature is reading. Here are the part numbers for you:

 

On the right of the block as you look at it from the front where the charger takes it's oil feed I had a brown sensor. It has now been superceeded by a blue one and the part number is 028919081D

 

On top of the oil filter housing there are two sensors/switches. The one closest to the block is black and the part number is 068919081

 

Closest to the radiator is a smaller sensor that is different from the others and is white. The part number for this is 049919563A

 

If you get these and replace the old ones the problem should go away like mine. I wanted to replace the cheap bits first and if that didn't work at least I knew it was something more expensive needing fixed. Hope this is of use to you mate 8)

[Dboy 0]

 

 

 

Dboy wrote:

Quote:

 

I've been putting oil in the washer fluid resevoir by mistake!

 

 

...that'll be the problem then

 

 

Err that was a joke I hope you realize....

I'm not quite that daft

 

 

..err yes i did realise

 

im not quite that daft rofl

[spoier 0]

Just got two new sensors in the mail today, going to install tonight.

Hasn't beeped in a while of course... must have seen me coming.

 

Will post again in a few weeks with the results!

 

Skye

[cramer 0]

4) No, the oil pressure and oil temp senders don't go anywhere near the ECU, they just go straight to the dash indicators...

 

 

They don't go directly to the indicators. The signal is routed to the oil pressure control board which is built into the back of the tach (this is where the annoying beep beep beep speaker is located too)

 

I had the same problem, it would be RPM dependent so anyting over 2k (the high rpm sensor) it would go off.. randomly. Replaced both sensors and still had the problem. So the last piece it can be is the control board. A spendy piece so I opted for a VDO guage, dual sender, idiot light, and mounting pod.. all for less then the cost of a new board ;)

[spoier 0]

Hey Chris good to see you on the good BBS :D

[Henny 0]

They don't go directly to the indicators. The signal is routed to the oil pressure control board which is built into the back of the tach (this is where the annoying beep beep beep speaker is located too)

 

Live and learn 8) I didn't know that... I knew that the senders went to the dash cluster, but I didn't know there was a seperate board for the pressure signal stuff... Betcha it's a dry joint that causes it though... :roll: It's starting to seem that there's a lot of dry joints on these dash clusters that cause all sorts of problems... I think I may just re-solder the lot on my clocks and have done with it! :roll: :lol:

[G60Jet 1]

 

Ohhh thanks hadn't thought of that :lol:

I've been putting oil in the washer fluid resevoir by mistake!

 

Good point though, I forgot to mention recent oil change to 20W50 and new filter, so that's not it.

 

I'll just change the damn sensors and hopefully be done with it.

 

Skye

 

20W50 surly that miles to thick for the G60 i thought 15W50 was about the limit,

 

could be wrong though, could be worth checking the charger oil return and feed lines, and taking the charger outlet off and checking for oil, could the oil seals of gone?

[spoier 0]

No, 20W50 is not too thick, look at the viscosity charts in the Corrado owner's manual or the bentley.... and I'm not losing any oil, so the seals are fine.

 

THanks

[dr_mat 0]

My 2p: I noticed a significant difference in the amount of time it takes to get the oil into the tappets on my VR6 (clattery noise) at cold start when I switched from 15w40 to 10w40. The latter seems to be much quieter, much quicker. I don't know much about the G60 engine, but I don't think I'd risk anything that thick in my VR6 unless I was living right on the Equator... (Where cold starts aren't..)

Oil pressures must be enormous for cold oil when it's that thick!

:?

[spoier 0]

Well, guess what, the new sensors didn't fix the beeping, it acted up again last night. Time to fit a real pressure gauge, and check out the wiring on the back of the instrument cluster :(

 

Skye

[spoier 0]

OK got some more news to report on this problem. I had a close look at the Bentley wiring diagram and verified with my multitester, the high pressure switch is NO (normally open) and the low pressure switch is NC. So, when the car is running normally, it should be the opposite, the high pressure switch on the filter housing should be closed (near zero resistance) and the low pressure switch should be open (infinite resistance). I verified this is true on the car.

 

Then, I made a short jumper wire with a spade at one end and a ring terminal at the other, disconnected the yellow wire from the high pressure switch, and connected the yellow wire DIRECTLY to ground via a valve cover nut. Then I disconnected the wire from the low pressure switch entirely.

 

This simulates good oil pressure under all conditions.

 

And guess what? After a warm run, then parking the car for a few hours and then driving it again, it started beeping again. So its *definately* not a REAL oil pressure problem - its something to do with the wiring, or the warning computer circuit.

 

Next step will be to inspect the connections on the back of the warning circuit in the cluster, and temporarily run two new wires from the switches to the cluster, to see if there is a break or short in one of the wires.

 

Skye