HT leads question-rpm lead on 4th ht lead??

[timmyC 0]

hello

 

i'd really appreciate some help! i'll try and explain...

i've recently tried to replace my HT leads as the C is running shite as usual and the leads are old and have a rusty colour to them!

 

anyways so i bought from dubsport thinking they would supply the correct ones for my 93 2L 16 valver-only to fit them and realise that the 4th lead (furthest to right) has another lead coming off it! but none of the new supplied leads have this...i have been told that this 4th lead has a rpm lead which gives the rpm reading on the dials??

 

so i called the supplier and they hadn't a clue...or just un clip it was there final thoughts!!

 

i can't see anywhere where it can be unclipped or am i not being brave enough!!

 

so i'm going to call around but i thought i'd ask you lot for some honest feedback first!!

 

cheers :wink:

 

Tim

[nocrap 0]

you have to unscrew the connector from that lead, the loop will then come off from it.........you'll then need to do the same with the new lead to get the loop back on (hoping that the connectors will unscrew from the new set, if not your in trouble)

[Crasher 3]

The extra sender is for 9A and PL engines, either remove or ignore it.

[Jim 1]

What are the implications of not connecting it up? On my last 2.0 16v I bought some cheapo HT leads and couldn't find a way to get the sensor onto lead #4 so just left it off.. never noticed any side effects?

[nocrap 0]

So is the 93 2l 16v not a 9a engine then? why is it there if its not needed?

Sorry not trying to catch you out, just generally interested.......

[Jim 1]

Yeah - the 2.0 16v engine in the Corrado is a 9A..

[Crasher 3]

Sorry, didn't read that properly, it is a 9A and the sensor needs fitting to the new leads, teach me to man read. Some leads fall to bits if you try to fit the sensor.

[timmyC 0]

cheers everyone i will have a bash at it!!

 

until next time!

 

:)

[Jim 1]

I've just ordered some Beru HT leads for my 2.0 16v so hoping they will come apart properly in order for me to fit the sensor seeing as they are OE leads!

[9a16v 0]

the pick up on #4 lead is for cars with motronic and 2 knock sensors - it tells the computer which pair of cylinders is knocking

[mrbeige 0]

the pick up on #4 lead is for cars with motronic and 2 knock sensors - it tells the computer which pair of cylinders is knocking

 

The same applies on the 9a with KE Jetronic. The pick up lead is for the knock sensing capability of the ECU. I got some new leads from Wires4Cars in the US, that didn't have that pick-up and fitted them without it. Had problems with the ECU thinking the engine was knocking and retarding the timing. Re-fitted the pick up from my original leads onto the new ones, disconnected and reconnected the battery, and hey-presto, fixed the problem (all this was curtosy of Vince, after a service at Stealth!!)

[timmyC 0]

i had a go but couldn't see how to un clip the lead so jsut fitted the new lead and left the pick up lead off.

she's running loads better as a result-it used to cut out every time i dropped into neutral for lights (well annoying!) but now it happened only the once!

i've got a her booked in for wednesday at another place so hopefully they will sort it!!

 

another thing whilst i'm here...i caught the knock sensor by accident and the sound/pitch of the engine changed! its all over my head anyhow so appreciate any help!

 

i'm gonna try find a picture 9a engine somewhere which shows the location of all the parts people go on about! any ideas??

 

:?

[Henny 0]

the knock sensor is basically a microphone that listens for knocking from the engine... banging it and making the engine change note proves that it's working ok... as long as the engine settled back to it's normal note not long after you knocked the sensor, you'll be fine... 8)

[keithabc216v 0]

just a note to all 9a 16valvers be carefull with the diameter leads you buyanything over standard and youve trouble threading lead through sensor nobody tells you till its to late even 8mm is trouble gsf do a good set for £50

with new carrier and all and the ends unscrew hope this helps

[timmyC 0]

the knock sensor is basically a microphone that listens for knocking from the engine... banging it and making the engine change note proves that it's working ok... as long as the engine settled back to it's normal note not long after you knocked the sensor, you'll be fine... 8)

 

nice one yeah it did go back normal..

my car is booked in for friday instead now so i won't mention it to them in case they try selling me a new one!!

hopefully it'll need just a set up...i wish!!

[timmyC 0]

UPDATE on 4th lead...

 

i've been to vw specialist today and they have told me you do need a proper HT which unclips as i have tried and them too, to remove my rpm bit from the HT lead. so i need to get a single 4th from the vw dealership.

 

as for the problem with my car...it was leaking air from the pipe running off the metering unit-simple! so i need to get a new one as it had 'caved' in (reason for leaking)

so a bit of tape on it for now and a little reset of the emissions and she's running sweet!

happy days!

 

cheers again for your help speak to again

 

;)

[Jim 1]

Looks like a trip to VW in my near future then so I can order an original lead #4.

 

Talk about bloody annoying though - these companies sell you ignition leads specifically suited for a 2.0 16v and they seem to be anything but! :|

[timmyC 0]

Looks like a trip to VW in my near future then so I can order an original lead #4.

 

Talk about bloody annoying though - these companies sell you ignition leads specifically suited for a 2.0 16v and they seem to be anything but! :|

 

exactly mate! i suppose you've got to trust them but its well annoying when it goes wrong! i've found some decent guys at a vw speaclist elsewhere now so hopefully no more problems...and of course the CF boys are good lads!

[Jim 1]

How much was #4 from VAG?

[Justonge 0]

I just bought a new set of HTs for my 16v from Euro Car Parts and as per every other set i've seen they don't have the sensor attachment. They are also sealed so I can't disconnect either end and reattach the sensor. Has anyone found a way around this (other than just leaving it off) or is my only choice to send it back to Euro Car parts and finally accept I will have to go directly to VAG?

[Jim 1]

Buy the Beru ones from http://www.vwspares.co.uk - mine came to £51.47 delivered and you can indeed unscrew the end cap from these and get the sensor over the lead (albeit with a bit of a fight as its an incredibly snug fit) :)

[Justonge 0]

Buy the Beru ones from http://www.vwspares.co.uk - mine came to £51.47 delivered and you can indeed unscrew the end cap from these and get the sensor over the lead (albeit with a bit of a fight as its an incredibly snug fit) :)

 

Cheers for that, i've just placed the order so hopefully i'll return the the land of smooth running sometime soon. :)

[saysomestuff 0]

Hey guys, bit of a thread resurrection, but I've just realised that the little sensor on mine is on lead number 1, would that negatively affect the running if it wasn't knocking?

[keithabc216v 0]

Hey guys, bit of a thread resurrection, but I've just realised that the little sensor on mine is on lead number 1, would that negatively affect the running if it wasn't knocking?

it shouldnt have anything to do with knocking the knock sensors bolted to the block deal with that providing their ok and torqued right

but it should effect the tick over as the sensor is connected to the isv

[saysomestuff 0]

ok cool, was just asking as there was mention earlier in the thread that it was responsible for the ECU knowing which pair of cylinders are knocking.

 

Don't doubt that being on the wrong lead is bad, but I'm just trying confirm that it's the lead for cylinder #4 that it should be on..