CrazyDave 0 Posted December 31, 2006 Done a bit more on the C today. The downpipe is off after much cutting and grinding, but I think the cat is OK. I may take the cat off and fit a band clamp straight pipe, then band clamp the cat so I can put it back in if needed for the MOT. I also offered up the turbo and manifold to get a feel for the downpipe. The turbine exit pipe is really tight (as Kev said!), but I've had a measure and offered bits of pipe up and it should go in. It actually looks like the bolt flange is a lower profile than the band clamp, even after allowance is made for the studs and nuts etc which seems a little strange to me? Next job is head off, ARP bolts and compression plate etc, and see what the bottom end looks like..... I hope it's ok cos funds are tight at the minute and could do without having to build a new one (however tempting a 3L bottom end sounds! and it does!). Looks like plenty of room? But it soon fills up! Small contact with standard heat sheild and compressor inlet, should be easy to fix. Turbo in position, the weld on flange is all in place. View from under the car. Different angle under the car. Looks like plenty of room from underneath? V-band clamp in place for size comparision. Looks like the horizontal alignment should be the same for bolt flange? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 2, 2007 Nice one Dave, good to see another one taking shape 8) With the oil feed line, make sure you run it over the cold side and away from the exhaust manifold. The line I had was a bit short and had to go over the hot side, which resulted in it eventually burning the rubber away under the stainless braiding and the resultant oil spray has caused two engine fires! I'm sure that crossed your mind anyway, but I'm just making sure you don't make the same mistake I did! I've ordered a 5ft feed line this time and will run it well away from the exhaust! It's quite embarrassing cupping your hands in puddle water and throwing it over the engine by the side of a busy road, I can tell you! Still, the trusty Volkswagen AA van towed back my ill Volkswagen in style. Lesson learned and fire extinguisher next on the list :oops: Yes your 4 bolt flange does appear to be low profile, that's great news. When my engine is out next week, me and Vince will see what we can do with the gear cables to get them out of the way, but so far they haven't melted! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted January 2, 2007 I've ordered a 5ft feed line this time and will run it well away from the exhaust! I offered all the pipes up during my trial fit and yes strangely enough my feed line is 5ft long should run nicely round the cold side with some P clips in a few places. Did you run the coolant feed from the throttle body pipes? Close call with the fire then.... If nothing else get a small in car extinguisher. I always used to carry one in mine and the wifes MK1. Strange things to do perhaps but if you've got it and don't have to use it thats fine by me. Must get one sorted for the C after reading your experiences. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Sands 0 Posted January 3, 2007 Looking good Dave. Particularly good work combining your prowess with a camera with that of the mechanic; gives the rest of us a much more involved view on things. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted January 3, 2007 Looking good Dave. Particularly good work combining your prowess with a camera with that of the mechanic; gives the rest of us a much more involved view on things. Cheers :D Although the pics from below took a few attempts to get right. Taking good underbonnet pics is really difficult, it's always dark and dingey and not enough depth of field to get everything in focus. But if it helps anybody else thinking about this kind of thing then it's worth the effort! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 3, 2007 I offered all the pipes up during my trial fit and yes strangely enough my feed line is 5ft long should run nicely round the cold side with some P clips in a few places. Did you run the coolant feed from the throttle body pipes? Close call with the fire then.... If nothing else get a small in car extinguisher. I always used to carry one in mine and the wifes MK1. Strange things to do perhaps but if you've got it and don't have to use it thats fine by me. Must get one sorted for the C after reading your experiences. I changed the order in the end and bought 2m of SS braid over teflon line and a selection of -4 AN Swivel ends so that I can make my own feed line. I couldn't get a line from the UK at all and couldn't get one from ATP fast enough. Got all the stuff from http://www.speedflow.co.uk who are excellent for all manner of JIC/AN, BSF, NPT etc etc fittings and hoses etc. Had to buy another turbo jacket too as the XTR one was destroyed in the fire. Still, the new one is a different make and looks a lot better anyway, so every cloud and their silver linings and all that..... The jackets really do work well though. I burnt my hand pulling the old one off (as it was on fire!!) but the radiant heat from the turbine literally flew up in my face as soon as it came off. With it on, under bonnet temps are barely any higher than a stock VR, which is also down to retaining the stock heavy gauge manifold cover. Yeah I used the existing T body water lines to feed the turbo with. Seemed the logical thing to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted January 5, 2007 A few more pics of todays efforts! Enjoy. Ain't she a beauty????? :shock: My daily runner for a few months, looks like a nail, drives like a Volkswagen! Looking good so far. Nice and clean inside rocker cover. Not bad in here either. Quite dark coloured coke on the pistion crowns, but no rimming in the bores. Looks like the anti-freeze has been a bit weak with a previous owner? Some surface rusting due to not enough inhibitor. For all those people who ask when to do VR6 timing chains.... er about 70k miles mate! This is the top guide and it's knackered!! No noise from the chains or anything. OK so it's not in bits, but it's not far off. New top timing chain, tension strip and guide ordered. The tensioner bolt was change about 5k ago. I'll sort the lower chain when I do the clutch (which could be very soon when the turbo goes on! :lol: ). Check out the forum knowledge base for all the info if yours needs doing. This had me really worried. No.1 piston has a scuff mark on the crown (top right not very clear in the photo). But after a bit of thinking I realised it must have been the screwdriver I shoved into no.1 plug hole to find TDC! :lol: When I removed the poly belt from the alternator, I found that the tensioner was really noisey. When the car last ran I suspected the alternator, but thats fine. New bearing for tensioner (£6.70 according to the forum knowledge base). VW want £70!!! The water pump is a bit stiff, feels like the bearings are going, so a new one has been ordered. That's about it for now, waiting for some bits before assembly starts. PS Kev, I just got a catalogue from Speedflow, wow they are good. The information in that booklet is spot on. Everything you ever wanted to know about pipe fittings, hoses etc. Just goes to show, when your looseing faith in UK suppliers, up pops a really good one! Full marks Speedflow! Think I might have to invest in one of those turbo jackets. Who is the new one made by? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted January 5, 2007 My chain guide was the same on mine and that had only 73k on the engine,just goes to show they dont last. Looks like i will be ordering most of my parts from ATP,god i love that place. Were did you get these turbo jackets? :lol: Nice daily !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted January 5, 2007 Looks like i will be ordering most of my parts from ATP,god i love that place. Were did you get these turbo jackets? ATP have been really good, Schimmel too. Top service+++++ Kev's original jacket was from http://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/, but not sure about the new one? I have polished the GTI since these pics, and even the rusty bits shine now! I'm off to read your members gallery now, goin turbo??? EDIT: No gallery.... That's one big turbo in your avatar. GT40? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted January 5, 2007 Haven't ordered bits yet,but should be doing so next week and the Turbo is a GT35/40R good for 600hp !! I do have a gallery http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29921 To reply to you fan enquiry,go for Spal fans and not a cheap make as the air the spal fans is quite impassive and gives you more space for intercooler,pipework ect.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 5, 2007 Twin scroll too, nice :-) Yeah the jackets come from AET Turbos for £149, or Owen Developments for £82. Take your pick. I can vouch for the quality of the former (excellent), but not the latter. Tensioner pad - yep, this illustrates precisely why 'silent' chain gear means sweet FA. Visual inspection is the only way. Incidentally I've done approx 50K with MK4 solid pad and there's no wear on it all. Corrosion between banks. They're all like that Dave. It's just another 'VR' thing. So long as the pitting isn't too deep for the gasket to seal to, it's fine. Otherwise block and head as I'd expect for the mileage ;-) Looks the same as mine, which had twice the mileage when I slotted the leaf blower on. Yeah Speedflow are excellent, they helped me out with my oil line parts and their fittings are twice as robust as the ones I got from the states...but they're not cheap. Fay who runs the place has unbelievable knowledge of fittings and general car plumbing, she's awesome. I've been running without the jacket for the past couple of days out of curiousity and my god do the temps sky rocket under there. I'm so glad I lagged everything in sight. Spool up is noticably slower on part throttle too, but only slightly. IMO they're worth the money. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted January 5, 2007 Thanks for the link James, still can't get the hang of searching sometimes. Going for some serious power then 8) . I'm sticking with 8 psi for a bit just to get things settled in. Should be good for 1bar up to max engine speed though, plenty for FWD. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted January 5, 2007 i will be snapping on Kev's heels soon enough :lol: Im going to run 11psi for now with my chip good for 300bhp(hope it works) then its DTA,lsd and big brakes. It will take a while cos im poor... :cry: :lol: Going to have to envest in one of these turbo jackets then.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted January 5, 2007 Im going to run 11psi for now with my chip good for 300bhp(hope it works) then its DTA,lsd and big brakes. It will take a while cos im poor... :cry: :lol: Going to have to envest in one of these turbo jackets then.. Buying turbo bits is a great way to spend money. And they are so pretty! Mapping might be a bit out in the 2-3.5k area. Depends when your turbo spools. The VF chargers are very linear and don't give much boost low down but the turbo will. Might be worth considering a rising rate regulator. Ask Kev, cos he's running something similar. I've been looking at Emerald ECU's lately, pretty good and do sequential injection. DTA is the dog's and a good price if you speak to the right people. LSD and brake are high on my list before more power. No point having it if you can't use it and stop. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 5, 2007 8 psi WG spring and a TurboSmart 'set and forget' gated Boost valve are all you need Dave, unless you want to get clever with an N75 solenoid hooked up to your Squirt :-) Looking forward to seeing yours and James's develop into beasts, and yeah, this game does make you poor, LOL! GT35R with 0.63 exhaust A/R will boost like the GT30. If you go for the 0.86 A/R it will be slightly laggy, but the top end will be monster....gear shreddingly monster :-) Yeah the BEGI regulator and a 4" MAF housing work well, it's really smooth actually. Good for 15psi....then you really do need a standalone and go MAP sensor. The charger map might be OK on part throttle but on wide open, it won't be enough. My Begi throws in fuel at 10:1 above stock at the moment on Wide open....it's a little fat, but fat is safe ;-) I can adjust it down to 7 or 8:1 rate of rise, but it runs so well now I've left it. As it's boost dependant, on part throttle it's stock. Mr Walker is working on a new ECU, which should be available soon.... he's using it on his project 924 turbo with E85! Make sure you get next month's PPC! The DTA does sequential too, but it has no advantage over batch firing at the top end. Since the short runner doesn't have much area for 'wall soaking', I think batch is the way to go. Keeps things a lot simpler and the only downside is a slight dip in economy, but 3.0 and turbo, who gives a stuff about mpg? LOL! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted January 5, 2007 Going for the 0.86 A/R as its not a daily car and i want to get practice on rebulding my gearbox :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted January 5, 2007 8 psi WG spring and a TurboSmart 'set and forget' gated Boost valve are all you need Dave, unless you want to get clever with an N75 solenoid hooked up to your Squirt :-) Sorry, I'm being clever again! I've got the old N75A from the wifes GTI wired up to the squirt. And in one of those, the VR6 was meant to have a turbo moments (like the exhaust heat sheild cutout thing), the standard loom has a connector for it. That connector on the breather pipe with the dummy valve is now wire for the N75 valve! Looking forward to seeing yours and James's develop into beasts, and yeah, this game does make you poor, LOL! Oh boy, what a lot of catching up to do! Not likely this century me thinks LOL! GT35R with 0.63 exhaust A/R will boost like the GT30. If you go for the 0.86 A/R it will be slightly laggy, but the top end will be monster....gear shreddingly monster :-) Yeah the BEGI regulator and a 4" MAF housing work well, it's really smooth actually. Good for 15psi....then you really do need a standalone and go MAP sensor. The charger map might be OK on part throttle but on wide open, it won't be enough. My Begi throws in fuel at 10:1 above stock at the moment on Wide open....it's a little fat, but fat is safe ;-) I can adjust it down to 7 or 8:1 rate of rise, but it runs so well now I've left it. As it's boost dependant, on part throttle it's stock. What ECU mapping are you using? Mr Walker is working on a new ECU, which should be available soon.... he's using it on his project 924 turbo with E85! Make sure you get next month's PPC! Got a subsription from the wife for Chrimbo. I knew she was the one for me when I got a Mk1 Golf front wing and a pair of axle stands for my birthday one year! That mag is cool! The DTA does sequential too, but it has no advantage over batch firing at the top end. Since the short runner doesn't have much area for 'wall soaking', I think batch is the way to go. Keeps things a lot simpler and the only downside is a slight dip in economy, but 3.0 and turbo, who gives a stuff about mpg? LOL! Sorry it's one of those dreams I have where my car has 400hp but still does 45mpg! No the main reason is for idle with big injectors. The pulse width gets so short that the fueling becomes inconsistent. But in sequential you'll only have 1 injection event for each cylinder, then all on for max hp. Oh, and good luck at Stealth on Monday! I'll see if I can get a over that way during the day? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NickVR6 0 Posted January 5, 2007 Baystards, i was so happy with my charger until you lot started banging on about turbos. Perhaps.......nah stop it, it would defo mean divorce. or if i decorate the house first.......... gits! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 5, 2007 CorradoVR6-n.o.s, good man! 600 ponies here you come :lol: A paltry 450-500 will do me 8) CrazyDave, Sorry, can't be bothered to quote....I find it quite taxing at this time of night and when on the booze, LOL! Nice one with the N75! I might use the DTA to control boost, not sure yet. I'm kind of tempted to just use my right foot as boost control, LOL! You'll be surprised how quickly it will all come together. The mechanicals - a doddle chap. What will take up all your time will be the downpipe and boost pipework etc. I'm not sure what facilities you have access to but I'm sure you'll do just fine. ECU mapping with the BEGI? Stock...and stock injectors too! It works purely on fuel pressure. Basically, as soon as the BEGI detects boost, the standard injectors max out pretty much instantly, and then the BEGI uses brute force and shoves fuel through the flat out pintles at 100psi. Sounds brutal but it works really well! Shame I can't demonstrate as the next time we meet up, I'll be using the DTA. Aye PPC is the only mag I buy now. Bored of Evo's constant ranting about Clio 182/197s, so decided to get a mag written by serial modders....for serial modders! Yeah I see your point with sequential. I'll see what Vince reckons when he configures it next week, but I know what he'll say.....Batch! LOL! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 5, 2007 NickVR6, buy a turban then :lol: And answer your phone you tool....(sorry Dave). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NickVR6 0 Posted January 5, 2007 bit worried that my chain tensioner has done 140k now lol better phone vince on monday and book it in for the big one i spose. By then you lot will have sorted a definateive parts list for me :-) phones now on! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted January 6, 2007 Thought about doing a parts list.... then decided against it cos it would have a bottom line! I'll get finished and see then. Not done much today. Started cleaning all the bits and removed a few valves from the head to have a look, no nasties found yet. Spent most of the afternoon trying to find out whats wrong with my dads 1998 Mk3 Golf GTI 2.0 8v. Keeps throwing a cam position sensor fault? You'll be surprised how quickly it will all come together. The mechanicals - a doddle chap. What will take up all your time will be the downpipe and boost pipework etc. I'm not sure what facilities you have access to but I'm sure you'll do just fine. My Jetex bits should be here next week, so I can make a start when the head is back on and all the other little jobs are done. As usual it's not always what you know but who. I had considered breaking out the old welding skills and getting a TIG set. But having spoken to a guy at work, he made a quick phone call and set me up with a guy who does TIG all day and makes custom exhaust manifolds for touring cars and rally cars, and his workshop is about 2 miles away! :lol: So I plan on cutting and tacking the sections together with my MIG in situe and then sticking them in the boot of the 'RED SHED' and taking them down the road for welding. Payment...... a case of Strongbow! ECU mapping with the BEGI? Stock...and stock injectors too! It works purely on fuel pressure. Basically, as soon as the BEGI detects boost, the standard injectors max out pretty much instantly, and then the BEGI uses brute force and shoves fuel through the flat out pintles at 100psi. Sounds brutal but it works really well! Shame I can't demonstrate as the next time we meet up, I'll be using the DTA. Sounds like a nice straight forward way of doing things. Not perfect, but as you say it works. Gives you a chance to do some local running in and sorting minor niggles. bit worried that my chain tensioner has done 140k now lol :shock: Nick, defo get it looked at. I was amazed how bad mine was. But it's probably lack of use and short trips that does it. Sorry about the turbo stuff. I blame that haywire bloke :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted January 8, 2007 Nothing done on the C today, but I did sort my dads MkIII GTI 2.0 8v. Cam sensor out of speck in VAG COM is caused by the intermediate shaft timing being out on late 2.0l 8v engines. The distributor sensor is used as a trigger for cam position (the four slot rotor only has one tab). It also has a crank sensor on the flywheel. Now the problem started when the main dealer in Shrewsbury fitted a new cam belt and got the cam timing and the intermediate shaft 1 tooth out :shock: This is quite easy to do if you use the flywheel mark for the crank position. Don't use the flywheel TDC mark use the little arrow and the notch in the crank pulley and the arrow and the OT mark on the cam pulley and the rotor arm in the middle of the notch in the distributor housing point to no.1 cylinder plug lead. Problem solved, goes like a rocket and no cam sensor fault code. Moral of this story, even main dealers can get it wrong, never assume anything! :roll: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NickVR6 0 Posted January 9, 2007 Moral of this story, even main dealers can get it wrong, never assume anything! are you suggesting there are some that get some stuff right then?? ;-) i think its sad, because at £100ph they should be telling you all that ffs. Good work anyway bud, i dont know what you do for a living but your in the wrong job by the looks! and get back under that C! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted January 14, 2007 Not much left now :lol: . My mate Simon came round today, first comment was.... are you sure you don't want to go 24v, you've only got one engine mounting left! The head is now stripped down and cleaned. Going to replace the valve stem seals and give it a good general fettle. Then lap the valves back in and rebuild with the compression lowering gasket. I also fitted a new water pump today. The old one wasn't to bad but seemed a little tight. Easy job to do when the front of the car is off, nightmare without I bet. Front end and cross member removed and going to powder coating. Clutch not looking to bad, but will be having an uprated one fitted. Release bearing a bit noisy but OK. Release arm OK. Fylwheel off next, and start on the timing chains and tensioners. This lot needs turning into a downpipe 8) . So tempting to fit an LSD at this very point, but it will have to wait for now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
