2LTR 16V ideal water/oil temp

[bosshogg 0]

can anybody tell me what the correct temp approx should be for a

2ltr 16v raddo be.

Mine seems to op at water 108 deg oil 100/108 after 7 miles

have fitted new stat, but after browsing old topics i need to change expansion tank cap to a blue one.

Only had raddo for a month previous woz a mk2 16v with a 6a engine

that ran 94 deg oil. 8)

[Supercharged 2]

Welcome to the forum, yeah that is a bit hot - in my experience the 2.0 16v doesn't seem to need an extra oil cooler like the VR and G60, both my mates run at 90/90 most of the time...

[bosshogg 0]

Thanx for that, fan cuts in ok coolant circulates ok bottom hose warmes fine,

thinking of getting fan switch that cuts in lower than 108 deg.

[nocrap 0]

Yeah agree with Supercharged. Mine runs between 90 and 100 with both water and oil being about the same temperature, depending on journey times.

 

Yours seems a little hot for reading that just after 7 miles but its still nothing to worry about.

 

Yes you do need to change the cap to a blue one, but this wont help the temperature..

[davidwort 0]

They all vary a bit, age and make of radiator and the mix of coolant (water/antifreeze) can make a difference, as can the grade of oil.

I'd only be concerned if the water sat regularly well above the mid point when warmed up or the oil was showing approaching 120 in normal driving. The 16v was designed to run fairly hot and is more efficient like that.

Next time you go for an MOT, see if they have an oil temp probe or an infra-red temp sensor, they're pretty accurate and will give you an idea how accurate your oil gauge(MFA) and sender are.

 

David.

[Jim 1]

Oil at the moment in this weather on mine seems to sit about 94 on a steady drive, with coolant sitting quite low - about 75. Coolant rises to middle of the gauge or just over in traffic and oil creeps to over 100 and thats about it! Fairly well behaved! :)

[vwdeviant 0]

Mine seems to run slightly hotter.. About mid gauge for water on a run, but the oil runs 110-122 depending on traffic...

 

Mind you I did get a quick beep (no light though) from the dash when giving it beans off a roundabout at the weekend so probably need to top off the oil... Mind you could have been the horrific camber change sloshing the oil about too...

[bosshogg 0]

Well thanx for your help, so far had a test done on the coolant for gasses ,

im ok there. Bought a new expansion cap blue (vag). lower hose is cooler

than top rad hose.

So my plan is to drop coolant back flush + flush rad then use G12+ as every

one says to do on this forum....... :snipersmile:

[Supercharged 2]

I think you have a faulty stat - did you test it in a pan?

[corradostuff 0]

You didn't say in your first post if you had G12+ coolant in already? When I bought mine it had some other coolant and it was always running at 100-110 for the water and 105 to 115 for the oil. I changed the coolant for G12+ and now it runs between 90 to 105 for both. Totally sorted the problem and I couldn't believe waht a difference it made.

 

YOu might want to try that as a quick and easy fix and check your thermostat at the same time. I'm no expert but think a dodgy stat will cause your bottom hose to be cooler than the top hose. There's loads of posts on here about testing it in a pan like Supercharged said. I think it should open at 80 degrees.

[bosshogg 0]

Ive changed the thermostat last saturday got one from GSF, and yes

put ordinary antifreeze in temp still went up 108 deg oil as well.

 

So today after work dropped coolant flushed out + rad refilled using

G12+ and replaced exp cap to a blue one.

 

Test it out on way to work tomorow. My other considerations are to change thermostatic switch for one that cuts in at a lower temp

 

apparently a damaged cat internals can cause over heating 8)

[nocrap 0]

Did you check out the water pump when you did the 'stat? it might working but maybe not to full capacity.....just another sugestion.

[bosshogg 0]

Water pump was done with cambelt last march (previous owner)

however i contacted the last owner apparently its been running like this

for the three years he owned it.

Soon as it does motorway work temp settles around 100/100 so he says.

 

The raddo hasnt boiled over or warning light on yet .

I think i will go for stat switch with lower temp fan cut in

[vwdeviant 0]

Any-one know (or have a look on ETKA) if the Rado came with a "Desert Spec" rad?

 

I know the Audi GT had one as a mate got one for his and improved cooling round town immensly....

[blue95 0]

When you flushed the system, was there any crap in the system. Did the pipes have any kind of build up???

 

Mine runs at oil 102, water 75. When I flushed mine all pipe work was clean, also I replaced using a VW rad.

 

Also worth checking all smaller hoses arround waterpump for old age, the tappered one that runs from the water pump on mine was ruptured. Also check all hoses are tight.

[flusted 0]

Hi Dave! Did you check if the ead fan switch was kicking in both speeds?

 

Also, theres a corrado meet next saturday if your interested in following me up?

Have a look in the meets section

[bosshogg 0]

Water was brown colour no crud to be seen. working on replacing stat switch

thinking the 2 speed fan is only working on 1 speed cutting in at 108 deg.

Will let you all know tomorow eve if prob solved.

as for hoses they seem fine i have no loss of coolant.

[Grahame 0]

I have a temp related problem too.

Before, my 2.0 16v water temp always sat at 90 no matter what, but it took a 15mile drive to reach that. I had the thermostat replaced, the fella also replaced two temp sensors on the block, and replaced coolant.

Now, it rises much quicker, and the thermostat opens at about 86deg as it should. Trouble is, the temp needle now reads 110 all the time! The actual temp has been checked with a laser thermometer and is 90 when the needle reads 110. I've been told faulty clocks, anyone else had this?. Two temp sensors are new so shouldn't be them (are these the senders for the guage?)

[blue95 0]

For water there are 2 temp senders there are 2, one for the dash and one for the ECU, as far as I know.

 

If this is the case I would guess the new sender is faulty? or the wrong par tnumber.

 

As for fan switch, I would replace the fan switch, it is cheap to do so. When I replaced the coolant I used, de-ionised water and G12+, also there are varying guidances to mixtures - see bottle for details!

 

As for hoses, I never realised my smaller hose was split untill I took the rad out, was told the average lif of a vag hose was 10 years.

[lottysvdub 0]

ive had no end of problems with a hot running engine since i got my car and ive tryed all the above repairs and it turned out to be the sensor for the ECU had no wire going to it and all ive done is take the wire off the coolent temp sensor and fit it to the ECU temp sensor now the fans kick in at 92 and the car runs perfectly , also the bottom hose should be cooler than the top hose as the water has passes through the radiator and cools , this is quite normal and its the same for all cars well it has with all the ones ive worked on in the last 21 years as a tech :)

[dnac 0]

Where do you get theis G12+ coolant from please?

[blue95 0]

GSF or ECP should do it, make sure it is G12+. Or from your local VAG, you will only need 1 bottle. No that expensive either, think mine was about £8-12 from Wayside VW

[davidwort 0]

GSF or ECP should do it, make sure it is G12+. Or from your local VAG, you will only need 1 bottle. No that expensive either, think mine was about £8-12 from Wayside VW

 

£4.95 from GSF

doesn't it still have to mix 1/3 : 2/3 water which would mean you need 2 bottles?

[bosshogg 0]

New thermo switch made no differance, so unplugged switch tested

a digital voltmeter over the three wire contacts only one read 12v.

So i assume fan is running on one speed, that being slow run.

 

Looks like the garage for me. :cry:

[flusted 0]

only 1 will read live as the other 2 are the feed wires for the fan.