The Forced Induction 20V Thread

[Lee1873 0]

Thanks for that guys.....turns out the autodata diagram i posted earlier matches my car perfectly 8)

 

couple of things still to suss but getting there....slowly

 

firstly i have these 2 vacuum hoses coming from the actuator? 1 of em goes to the boost ctrl valve i think & the other 1 went to some little valve on top of the cam cover which i no longer require......so....where do i run the 2nd pipe to? do i just plumb it to the inlet manifold?

 

ive attached a pic so you know what im on about & the 2 pipes in question...all advice/help appreciated

 

cheers

 

Lee

[Lee1873 0]

Its cool lads, got it sussed, turns out its only this particular flavour of 20vt that has 2 pipes here & im reliably informed i can happily block one of em off, it used to run to one of the N112 valves which are deleted when using Qpeng....

[phatso 0]

I am considering swapping my 2 litre converted G60 for a 1.8turbo. I would love to be able to do it myself but i dont have the space to do the work :( What is the current cost of getting this sort of conversion done, from what i have been reading it seems to be about £2000-3000 in labour plus parts is that about right or have all of you guys done the conversions yourself?

 

Also as i have over 220bhp in the g60 i am looking for a fair bit from the new engine, Is the BAM engine code the only one that was 225bhp from an original car?

[barryarginnraddo 0]

please will some one try to put me off doing this to my raddo this summer, if you do this your self how much will it cost approx

[junkie 0]

Most you wanna be paying is 1K for an engine with ECU etc, then depends if you go standard ECU or standalone, or Qpeng

[Rob_B 0]

Most you wanna be paying is 1K for an engine with ECU etc, then depends if you go standard ECU or standalone, or Qpeng

 

prices are high for these at the moment as they are sought after

1k is low to average price. expect to pay more for k04 turbo engines

[junkie 0]

Just need to look in the right places :wink:

[Rob_B 0]

well i need 1 asap as my mate has melted a piston in his, so if you know of any then let me know please sir :shades:

much appreciated

[barryarginnraddo 0]

what is the main hassel with the conversion? how long will it take me ( a novice) and a competent friend who is an aircraft engineer to complete? is using std management a nightmare?

[Rob_B 0]

what is the main hassel with the conversion? how long will it take me ( a novice) and a competent friend who is an aircraft engineer to complete? is using std management a nightmare?

 

im not sure how useful being an aircraft engineer will be!

biggest hassle is probably the wiring. putting the engine in is easy, if you can take the old one out then you can put the new one in. just need to use the engine mounts from your old engine to bolt to the 20v. which engine u running now?

how long? pass. depends on how much you know, how quick you work, how much you want to spend etc.

i didnt use standard managment, but i would imagine using stand alone managment is easier to install.

its not that hard to do, you just need to get stuck in

[tim20vt 0]

my turbos gone again

 

my first ko4 did 300 miles after recon at £370

my second at a further £200 has just gone at 360 miles

 

they said it sufferd a lack of oil. but i have checked and checked and double ched everthing to do with the oil the pressure is high i have a gauge on it has loads cracks out if i take the return off or crasck the pipe at the turbo and filter.

 

both times has new 0w 30 oil and genuine vag filters.

 

so why is it dead the bearings are shot again.

 

first question could it be a heat problem?

shud i have an after run pump on?

its running qpenq ecu,iv not run over 0.5 bar on my gauge with the second unit,the first had seen 1.5bar but i have seen a max of 1.8 bar for a second or 2

its only a cheap tim gauge.

 

im not seeing its an oil issue at all

so could it be egt even tho its only seeing 0.5bar

 

please any help or info please post it this is costing me a fortune :help: :help:

 

the cars fine apart from my turbo issue.

 

also if you have done the bam conversion and didnt use the after run pump where shud the return from the turbo water go.

 

i cant risk putting a brand new unit on and it goin again in 300 miles :help:

[Dub20vt 0]

i've got a BAM lump, i haven't used the run on pump, just take it steady for the last couple of miles of your journey.

 

only thing i can think of is did you prime the turbo with oil before starting it up and using it?

 

i was told by AET to take the plugs out and turn the engine over to build pressure up in the bearings/lines before actually starting the engine. They also advised to use new oil feed lines to make sure that no contaminents could get into the turbo.

[tim20vt 0]

as an update both the recons were done by aet turbos.

i bought a brand new unit 1200 miles ago and now run the afterrun pump and its goin as strong as ever.

so if nobody uses the after run pump then was it the recon?

the turbo was fitted as the instructions etc and no different to the new one all bled etc.

 

so either the pump does work and is needed or becarefull who you get ya turbo recond with either way its running fine at the waste of £700 in recon turbo work :)

[Rob_B 0]

i would say that most people do not run the run on pump on their conversions. am i correct in saying that the k04 is a water cooled turbo?

[Dub20vt 0]

yea it is water cooled.

[junkie 0]

Right then looking at 20vt to buy and the longitudially mounted engines found in passats, if i were to buy 1 whats the difficulty to mount it in my car but transversly, ignore all other stuff like manifolds etc, just actually getting the engine mounted with an o2a box or whatever obviously not the box that would come with the engine.

 

Which way round is the Sharan engine as well.

[Rob_B 0]

well the blocks should be pretty much the same so the rear mount should bolt on if they are. front mount and passenger side mount are all on the box so no problems there. obviously the manifolds are different of which you seem aware. think the pissrat runs an external waterpump but other than that, the block is pretty much the same as all other 1.8s. the head is the same as other 20vs. think the AEB engine runs a big port head like the AGU which everyone wants

[junkie 0]

Thats the thinking behind it all as the AEB and the Sharan run the big port heads, so im thinking it might be easier to find an decent cheaper alternative to the AGU, and as im going for big power i would be changing both manifolds anyhow, just need to find out on the wrist pin size in those then.

[Dr_Redz 0]

Wrist pin size on AEB and AGU (large port) is 20mm

 

On the AUM/ARZ engines (small port) there 19mm pins :ignore:

[Rob_B 0]

what has happened to the g60 turbo then?

[junkie 0]

Cheers for the info then guys.

 

I'm fed up of killing it so it's time to kill something else..... but really its just the manifold thats cracked 1 of the bolt lugs off, Jabbasport have hopefully resolved the issue now, the wastegate hole is cracked but i dont know if its a another rebuild of it with a new exhaust housing or not yet, i just need more power but still want a 4 cylinder beasty.

[junkie 0]

Can all 20v gearboxes be used if the whatever flanges from a 110tdi are used as Radosteve has mentioned previously and which is the best ratio wise to rev to 8.5k ish with good accelaration and to use a rev range between 4.5k - 8.5k ish?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

8.5K :shock:

 

Going solid lifter head then? :wink:

 

If I were you I'd be looking at a close stack 6 speeder. Whether it be from the VAG stable or a gearset and I tell you something else..... if you run a GT3076R on your 1.8T, you will smash the standard 1.8T 02J box to peices :lol:

[barryarginnraddo 0]

im a newbie to the world of 20vt conversions although ive owned a 20 v t powered car and liked the delivery so much that im going start my project over the next couple of weeks.

 

Im hoping to buy the agu engine for sale here. and use its std ecu and loom etc..

 

I was just wondering if any one could point me in the direction of a decent front mount, that fits behind my std bumber with out cutting non o.e looking holes evey where.

 

Im on a pretty tight budget and will be doing all the work my self aidded of course by 2 of my closet friends who are pretty handy with tools.

 

Also how hard is it to wire in the rev counter, and make the temp guage work????? The mechanical stuff isnt really bothering us, its just the wiring. cheers.

[junkie 0]

You can buy my intercooler kit :D