S/C VR wont start - comp test readings 22/02

[ziderapple 0]

Right, my Corrado has not run for some months now, having a company car, no money and bad weather has meant I have just left it, but now I really want to get it going, missing it now.

 

The last time I drove it was the begining of October and only for about two mins, felt good, started well etc, didnt rag it as it was cold and I was still runing it in, I only had to drive to my to my parents who are one road away. I went on holiday then a week or so after that I started it up, the petrol was really low and it cut out.

While it was running it sounded like it was knocking, I took the oil filler cap off and the head looked bone dry, was just about to turn it off when it cut out, thats the last time its run.

 

I rebuilt the engine last year and did about 800 carefree miles on it, was quiet, not smoky, but was running very rich. Since it hasnt run I have removed all the plugs - which were wet with petrol, cleaned them all put them in and tried to start it, it did start but only ticked over at about 200rpm with foot fully flat down, farted and popped and died.

 

I have got petrol - it reeks when trying to start it (plugs wet when removed), I have checked for a spark at the plugs (only two to be honest though) nice big sparks and as it cranks over every few cranks it sounds like its going to catch but dosnt.

 

I have scanned it using VAG COM and it showed no fault codes, the only thing I did notice though, was the engine rpm didnt register anything when it was cranking over, I have a feeling it may be an ECU issue as the plate with all the earths on was badly attached (guilty) but it did 800 miles like it.

 

The plugs im using are MK2 Golf 16v spec BERU ones, before I was running Iridium NGK's. Leads are about a year old - BERU again. I need to do a compression test I know, I'm waiting for a mate to drop a tester down - but its only just had new rings and oil pump along with other obvious things. When it was running as I have mentioned it was very rich - the tops of the pistons were black when I checked, I spoke to Vince at Stealth who said they can go like that after a short run but did mention bore wash to me.... but I did 300ish miles on it after that ok - was trying to run it in before taking it to Stealth for a remap.

 

So, any ideas?

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

So is it still not remapped Chris or are you using the stock Ecu mapping?

[ziderapple 0]

No, it did go in for a remap but the HG was weeping so Vince started with a map of a same spec C he had, did only one power run (as we didnt want to blow the HG) then tweaked it from there. The map wasnt perfect (268bhp - timing not perfect, smoky at top end) but I was planning to go back after doing the head for a proper map.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

No, it did go in for a remap but the HG was weeping so Vince started with a map of a same spec C he had, did only one power run (as we didnt want to blow the HG) then tweaked it from there. The map wasnt perfect (268bhp - timing not perfect, smoky at top end) but I was planning to go back after doing the head for a proper map.

 

So its part mapped? do you still have the original EPROM? if so could you fit this and eliminate the software?

 

Is it not just floded? have you dried out the plugs? warm the plugs up with some heat and retry?

 

Were you mapped without the maf?

[ziderapple 0]

I have got a feeling its flooded, as when I removed the plugs and cleaned/dried them and I guess some of the petrol evaporated off during that time the car sort of started, was very rough but it did tick over 200-300rpm then died again.

I'm running with a MAF, not got the original EPROM, I think it was one which was soldered onto the ECU, as vince had to unsolder it then fitted a holder which he fitted the new EPROM to.

 

Whats your opinion on bump starting it?? I had a mk1 cabby with K Jet which would never start unless bump started then would run fine, just seems wrong with the VR though as I dont want to cause any damage.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

If you suspect it flooded,do it this way.

 

Remove the plugs,dry them out with a heat gun or put them of the kitchen oven plate to get them nice and hot and it drys the core of the plug out well.

 

clamp the fuel line feed to the fuel rail and then refit your plugs while they are hot.

 

Get somebody to crank it over untill it starts to fire and while it starting to fire on the unburnt fuel that is left in the cylinders unclamp the fuel line and you should be away.

 

this has worked every time for me and ive been in the trade 12 years plus mate.

 

try this first before you pull it,dont like the idea of the charger been tow started.

[ziderapple 0]

Cheers for the tip, will give it a go. :D

[ziderapple 0]

Carried out a compression test this evening, was quite pleased with the results on three cylinders, ok with one and gutted with two (can you guess?). I did three tests on each cylinder, except the last one, didnt see any point doing a third. Results:

 

Does this look like HG failure? My brother is off work tomorrow so is going to try and trickle some oil down the bores with poor readings and re-try, think they'll be the same though.

 

Gutted. :(

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

hmm not good bud,it could have slightly blown the gasket between 3 & 5 only by carring out a leakage test will you fully know if its the valves,rings or gasket.

 

Your hole back row is low..? 1,3,5 mabey the rear banks have run lean?

 

But which ever way you look at it....its time to open you tool box :(

[ziderapple 0]

Just tried putting some oil into cylinder 5 and re-testing. 14 bar.......... :(

 

I guess I need a new bottom end?

 

Gutted.

[chazrad 0]

Just tried putting some oil into cylinder 5 and re-testing. 14 bar.......... :(

 

I guess I need a new bottom end?

 

Gutted.

 

Bad luck mate. Feel quite sorry for you, really. Just when you'd done all that good work to get the car running again after stripping it all down and rebuilding it. :(

 

Still, look on the good side...this could be the opportunity to sell the charger and put the money towards a 24v 2.8L or R32 conversion! :D

 

Let us know what happens matey.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

Bad news bud,get it pulled apart and find out whats up,it could still be gasket? but you have to pull it apart....dont get down mate she is testing your commitment :(

[CrazyDave 0]

DOH, sorry to hear the news Chris.

 

But as others have said, chin up, could be time for something a little different. R32 twin turbo sounds like fun :D

[ziderapple 0]

There is loads of mod's I'd love to do - problem is a lack of funds lately, still got offers of over seas work coming up which is always good for the bank balance. Ideally I'd go R32 - get it all running myself then take it to Stealth and get them to fit a spacer and the V9 and map it all, so much money though.

 

I'll pull the head off next weekend and have a look. Been wondering if I'd notice a difference in performance if I went for a 2.8vr.....?

 

Really I just want to find a decent second hand engine, fit a spacer gasket and aquamist (really should have done that to start with... :? ) and away i should go.

 

Oh and Charlie, good work my man, you have to take me out in VRG when she's turbo'd!!!

[dinkus 10]

The late OBD2 2.8s were making as much power as the 2.9s did, but tbh if you've got a charger ramming air into it anyway I doubt you'd notice the difference...

[ziderapple 0]

I think I may just go for a 2.8 as they are fairly plentiful, would be another 2.9 ideally though. I wonder how much it would cost to have a 2.8 bored out to a 2.9 and use my pistons in that... hmmm.

[ziderapple 0]

I have now started a get the Corrado back on the road plan...

 

Just made a list of the things I'll need and get done - last time I honed the bores myself, was successful in the past on 4 cyl engines, may have been this time but it dosnt look like it, so I'll be getting a Engine reconditioning firm to do it this time round - £12 per cyl. I'll get the head properly re-conditioned - was a second hand low mileage one that went on last time, said around £160 for that. Then if I want them to bolt the block and head together another 3 hours labour @ £48p/h - not including parts. Last time I didnt bother with ARP bolts, going to use them this time, head and rod. My list of all work and bits required including oil and sundries stands at £820... :(

[CrazyDave 0]

Have you tried looking at stuff from the States? Give Bill Schimmel a ring, he's very helpful. http://www.spturbo.com

 

I guess the trouble is that another engine will still need rod bolts etc for what you have planned anyway. And then you won't really know the condition until it's running. Just more unknowns...

 

Be well worth it in the end though Chris, you already know the grin factor from driving a 300hp VR is priceless :)

[dirtytorque 0]

sorry to read this.

yours is definitely beyond repair?

Did you take the head off?