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Wheelspin - Traction control broken? (VR6)

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Dinkus:

 

I wonder y cheesewire stipulated a castor setting range of - +3.25 +/- 0.30 if it can't be adjusted? (I still don't understand how u laser check that reading!)

 

When I fitted the lowering springs I don't remember there being hardly any room for adjustment on the strut bottom mounts. Certainly not enough to pull my diagonal looking front wheels in (the back are fine), but I'll have another look to double check. Could do with an exploded view of this castor business for possible adjustments if indeed it is possible, anyone...?

 

 

Cheers, Si

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LOL, I prefer my blue handbag, it's much sexier than Mat's :lol:

 

I mentioned the caster so that you can see whether your car is in spec or not. Since Caster isn't adjustable, (it is, but beyond the scope of this thread!), you're looking for the same number on both wheels, indicating a nice straight shell. Caster can be off and not affect anything if it's on both wheels, but if it's off on one wheel, it will cause bad pulling.

 

Caster is the tilt angle, like a bike's forks. It's what gives the steering it's self centering and some of it's weight.

 

And Mat..... you're missing the point. I said you can't spin both wheels simultaneously, under power, with an open diff. Excess power will always divert to the wheel with least grip. So how can both wheels spin together? If the ABS diff lock lock's the spinning wheel, power will divert back to the opposite wheel and spin that instead (if it actually worked). If you're saying this isn't the case, then well done, you've just rewritten the rule book and invented an LSD using an open diff :lol:

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When I fitted the lowering springs I don't remember there being hardly any room for adjustment on the strut bottom mounts. Certainly not enough to pull my diagonal looking front wheels in (the back are fine), but I'll have another look to double check.

 

Between the slots in the struts and the movement available in the balljoint-wishbone joint, the wheels will come back straight. A lot of people have lowered their cars pretty dramatically and been fine. It can look decieving when you've got your head in the wheel arch, but a tiny adjustment will make several degrees of difference.

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CheeseWire it is pulling fairly noticeably to the left like - and the tracking has been lasor set. What does that mean?

 

They didn't do it right, or they've missed that something is bent.

 

They should have given you a print-out with it, showing you all of the values before and after and the range they should have been in.

 

That'll show you if one wheel is pointing in a different direction to the other and hence causing your problems.

 

Also, sounds silly - but have you checked your tyre pressures? They should all be set correctly before the alignment is done, but some places don't check and if they're not the same from one side of the car to the other, it'll make a difference to the handling.

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I think it is more than just the road camber. And yes the tyre was actually low on pressure but after returning it to full normal pressure and after checking the tracking lasor and setting the tracking correctly it still pulls to the side.

 

 

I wonder whether the tracking mechanic set the lasor sensors correctly on the wheels but who knows? The main thing I need to do is correct the negative camber but I would like to get it all set up correctly when I put uprated shocks on as right now it's on standard ones with PI lowering springs (i know not good - ask my teeth!).

 

 

I will try to find the print out of the lasor values for u guys to maybe comment on.

 

 

Thanks again. Simon.

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So erm hang on - they've done a laser alignment, but not the camber?

 

In which case they've not done a proper 4-wheel laser alignment and there be your problem..

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A VR6 Corrado has a traction control system? This is news to me! :eek:

 

Jings you learn something new every day. From what I can gather, it's not like modern electronic traction control though, but just some mechnical 'feature', if you like, of the gearbox? Is that correct?

 

Anyway, my tracking (and probably camber too is miles off and I can feel it. I can actually see the wheels toeing out. The right tyre has a wear 'gouge' (sounds scary) on the inner corner which I think is rubbing off the rear of the front arch on full lock.

 

I believe that you are only supposed to adjust the right tie-rod, having set the left one to a precise length (or if still original it should be a fixed length rod). Is that correct?

 

Once I get that howling wheel bearing out of there I'm going to get the tracking sorted.

 

Strangely enough, apart from the gouging, my tyres are not getting ruined with this setup. I find my VR6 is remarkably kind to tyres, even though I can see that it toes out just by looking at it.

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A VR6 Corrado has a traction control system? This is news to me! :eek:

 

Jings you learn something new every day. From what I can gather, it's not like modern electronic traction control though, but just some mechnical 'feature', if you like, of the gearbox? Is that correct?

 

VR6 traction control just operates the brakes slightly. Modern systems cut engine power too.

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A VR6 Corrado has a traction control system? This is news to me! :eek:

 

 

Its basic and operated by the ABS.

 

You'd only notice it pulling away from a standstill if you had one wheel on gravel and one on the tarmac. The ABS brakes the wheel spinning on gravel to send power to the wheel on tarmac.

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Not trying to reignite the Diff thing but a normal pull away is rotating both wheels at the same time or is only one wheel getting power? (ducks) :scratch:

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Not trying to reignite the Diff thing but a normal pull away is rotating both wheels at the same time or is only one wheel getting power? (ducks) :scratch:

 

"Power" is not rotation ... necessarily ...

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