Definitive G60 Timing Belt Setting

[Yandards 0]

Im sticking with the method of leaving the rocker cover and gasket in place, and aligning the two dots on the front of the cam pully with the notch on the rocker cover.

 

Whats confusing to me is the picture makes it look as though the rocker is removed...and the notch pictured is below the edge of the head. :bad-words:

Also i can't stand the method for aligning the inter shaft pully, what an utter sh|t idea.As you turn the pully, it can still be seen as or look like its aligned, but how the hell would you ever know for sure when there is no horizontal maker point.

 

May have a mess with mine again tommorow too, fecking thing is getting on my nerves.

And why can't i quote attatchments?

 

Yes the intermediate shaft is a rather rubbish way of working as you cant even see the dots to align them properly as the inner wing gets in the way. However, it is not essential that the intermediate shaft is exactly on the money. The reason for that is that the intermediate shaft only drives the oil pump (does not matter when that 'fires') and the distributor - you set the dizzy to the correct place by carrying out the dynamic timing. So basically as long as the car runs well enough to get up to temp and then disconnect the BTS so you can do the dynamic timing the intermediate shaft cambelt position can be a tooth or two out.

[steveo29 0]

right well heres some pics from me

 

it seems to match up well to what yan says,

 

small screwdriver between 2 dots...touches the rocker cover pointer exactly

 

 

rocker off...straight edge on the gasket lines up very nicley

 

 

bare head...doesnt line up at all and moving it one tooth still wouldnt line up???

 

 

i cant really understand how darren is suggesting it should be ..any chance of a pic darren?

[g60karmann 0]

bringing this one back from the dead...

 

really just want to ask the same as steveo29 can anyone explain how Darren is setting these up? I am going to be changing the cam belt on the weekend I was going to follows Yandards steps but if you can get a little more out of the PG from being a tooth out on the cam pulley then wouldn't mind giving it a go.

[dirtytorque 0]

can't see that your going to gain much in terms off free power tbh?!!

 

I'd personally just set it up as per factory instructions.

[g60karmann 0]

maybe not free power, but a better power delivery might be possible :shrug:

[dirtytorque 0]

maybe not free power, but a better power delivery might be possible :shrug:

 

would be hard to quantify without a rolling road etc.

If you want to do this sort of thing its prolly best done with a vernier.

Easy to reverse it then if your unhappy.

[Yandards 0]

bringing this one back from the dead...

 

really just want to ask the same as steveo29 can anyone explain how Darren is setting these up? I am going to be changing the cam belt on the weekend I was going to follows Yandards steps but if you can get a little more out of the PG from being a tooth out on the cam pulley then wouldn't mind giving it a go.

 

It's not worth the hassle and it wont align very well. The real trick with getting the most from a G60 is in the set-up of the timing - get that in the sweet spot and it makes a massive difference to the output.

[rixy 0]

so is a vernier worth the money for a g60 then? as i got a brand new one in my room for an 8v golf / g60 and will fit it to my g when i get it if so?

[dirtytorque 0]

Personally,i'd say no.

Saying that I had one on mine which I experimented with a bit.To get the most of it you'd need to set it up on a rolling road.

Not sure it would be worth the rolling rroad time and you will probably find that the best all around compromise is to have it set up as factory anyway.

[G60ING 0]

Where do you suppose the mark will be after milling the head 1.75mm? There will be belt slack if you try and leave it in the stock position. I know an adjustable cam gear would be ideal but that is not an option. I believe the timing marks would drop below the rocker gasket level.

[Supercharged 2]

1.75mm !?! :shock:

[Yandards 0]

Where do you suppose the mark will be after milling the head 1.75mm? There will be belt slack if you try and leave it in the stock position. I know an adjustable cam gear would be ideal but that is not an option. I believe the timing marks would drop below the rocker gasket level.

 

In exactly the same point as its a mark on the cam cover which sits on top of the head and the cam wheel is also in the same location as it was prior to the head shave, although 1.75mm seems like a massive amount off a head and you should be able to take up the belt slack using the adjustable tensioner. As for if the timing remains correct after losing that much from the bottom of the head, I really don't know, the only referance I can find details max possible head distortion not the total 'safe' amount for a skim.

[motobruce 0]

Ive just done my timing and happy with everything except the distributor marks as when i set it to tdc by aligning the rotor arm and mark on the casing the mark on the pulley does not like up with the one on the crank pulley any ideas?

 

Heres some pics

 

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x54/ ... 0_5142.jpg

 

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x54/ ... 0_5145.jpg

[Yandards 0]

Ive just done my timing and happy with everything except the distributor marks as when i set it to tdc by aligning the rotor arm and mark on the casing the mark on the pulley does not like up with the one on the crank pulley any ideas?

 

Heres some pics

 

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x54/ ... 0_5142.jpg

 

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x54/ ... 0_5145.jpg

 

I would not worry too much given that you need to adjust the dizzy in its housing as part of the set-up process detailed at the start of this thread. The dizzy mark both on the distributor and on the cam wheel are there to get a rough setting to ensure the car starts post cam belt change, you will need to get a timing light onto the car to get the dizzy set correctly.

[drewiee99 0]

ok took my car on the rollers the other day after the rebuild and it only made 167hp the guy said it dies at 4400rpm. it made 194hp last year with a 70mm pulley and a standard head. I was a bit unsure of him the old git cause he strapped it down did one run didnt even put the fan in front of it,and charged me £35 . I looked at the timing today and all seems ok why would it be that much down on power?

When im driving it seem quicker than before, and i did yandards set up procedure so should be ok. :?

[Riley 0]

Whats your ignition timing set at mate?

 

Neil.

[drewiee99 0]

not sure to be honest getting to technical now.

[philie 0]

Hi Guys,

Just a quick question before I try this on my G60.How do you take off the toothed belt, does it just slip off.I noticed a bolt down at the pas pump is this the tensioner for it(I hope not its eized on mine :( )I can actully see the bolt warping in the middle if I try to turn it.Oh and also the plug is missing from the gearbox is this ok or is it a big problem.

[steveo29 0]

right ..

 

ive just went and changed mine to what i think darren is suggesting...one tooth on from yanards photos , re set the ign timing too

 

cant decide if its better or not , not a massive differance tbh , sounds pretty nice ...possibly doesnt rev so freely at the top end although im not sure

 

anyone else got any opinions on this? cant be that hard to get it sussed between us ?

[Henny 0]

The standard settings are fine for a standard engine... if the car has ever had a head gasket done and has had even the slightest of skims to get it 100% flat again, you'll never get the standard timing marks to line up again... :brickwall: :roll:

 

On all of my previous cars, I've done the tip-ex trick, marking the crank, intermediate and cam pulleys on a tooth and the belt at the same point... I then counted the teeth between the marks and put similar marks in the same place on the new belt. Line 'em all back up again and you know it's as it was before you took the old belt off... means you can do a belt swap a lot quicker and are much more likely to notice if you get it a tooth out... although this relies on it being right in the first place... :roll:

 

Before I fitted the CNC head to my 1940cc G60, I found that I was running a tooth out on the cam after making 220bhp at Stealth... I do know that changing it back to set up as per factory made a massive positive difference and made the car much more drivable... Then having messed with the cam settings on my 1940cc G60 engine after I fitted my CNC head, I could never get the cam pulley to line up properly, so much so, that I fitted a Kent Vernier to it to stand a better chance of getting it close.... As it turns out, it was never quite set up properly by Chip-Wizards from the look of things, so I'll never know just what sort of difference it would have made if it were as I've since sold the top end of the engine... :cry:

 

The standard G60 engine I've now got (which I'll now be playing with) has never had the head off, and all of the timing marks line up 100% as per the factory instructions...

[steveo29 0]

henny just to confirm ..by standard markings you mean the cast pointer on the rocker cover yes?

 

 

would i be right in thinking one tooth advanced would move the power down ? ive got a feeling mine isnt revving so freely high up

[Henny 0]

yup, lug on cam cover between the two dots.... :)

[iMation 0]

Alright guys, im having some problems with this

 

When under load the knocking noise is LOUD. I would do it myself but the head has had work, so i dont want to fuck things up.

 

Anybody know anywhere in lincolnshire that will do this, the engine is heavly modified.

 

Stu

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

i wish i had spotted this earlier!!! :lol:

This page is going straight to my bookmarks! :salute:

[steveo29 0]

its on a 8v gti...but intresting still

 

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=210893

 

seems to agree with what most of us are thinking is correct ?