Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
bootsy

G60 fuel consumption!

Recommended Posts

as a relative newbie to g60's i'm appalled by my fuel consumption but i dont know if its normal or not the cars a 90 with a rebuilt jabbasport stage4 charger, 68mm pully n chip and thats about it it runs fine start goo but sups juice i get about 17 mpg in traffic :cry: both on the mfa and in reality and about 23 ish on a run and belive me gents i'm not booting it i cant afford to :shock:

does any one have a clue here is this normal or just me :?: :shock:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mines got a stage 4, but doesnt have the chip and pully and I get about 25 average and in traffic about 21 so not far off. I have asked my local garage and they say its ok?!?!?!?!

 

Expensive - Fun tho!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I get about 300 miles out of £45 quids worth of 95ron fuel in normal mixed driving - usually quite fast after the car has warmed up!

 

On long runs I can get 40+MPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I seem to be getting about 28mpg overall, thats with stage 4/chip/pulley.

 

I noticed that its alot heavier on juice at higher speeds, at 40mph it will read about 40-45 mpg, but motorway speeds 60-80 it really drops off to the low 20's.

 

My 8v GTI used to have good fuel consumption even at 110mph!

 

 

I thought Vr's were supposed to be heavier on petrol than the G60's??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I where to believe what the MFA told me I would have sold it the first week. I have never seen over 22mpg on the dam thing. Spoke to my Mechanic and he said ignore it. Basically fill it up to the brim drive it for 100 miles(or whatever you want) and then fill it up again to the brim. With receipt in hand work out how much fuel consumed convert to gallons and some quick maths you'll get a pretty good idea of what your getting from a tank.

 

Don’t forget in winter fuel consumption is especially crap till the car warms up.

 

If you still cant take it put a TDI under the hood :p

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Get a VR6 - faster and better on juice :p:p :lol:

 

I really dont think we want to go there!!!!!! lol :wink:

 

You getting some new carpet slippers for christmas then Scott.. :lol: :lol:

 

 

Seriously - the MFA on my G60 is fairly accurate. I usually average 27-28 mpg. That includes some motorway driving & a bit of thrashing here & there. No point having power if you ain't gonna use it !!

 

BTW - thats with R1 charger (ported & flowed), 68mm pulley, re-chip, full induction kit, CAT bypass, etc, etc.

 

Std VR6 faster ? mmm not sure on that one.. 8) :lol: :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
the cars a 90 with a rebuilt jabbasport stage4 charger, 68mm pully n chip and thats about it it runs fine start goo but sups juice i get about 17 mpg in traffic :cry: both on the mfa and in reality and about 23 ish on a run and belive me gents i'm not booting it i cant afford to :shock:

does any one have a clue here is this normal or just me :?: :shock:

 

There's definitely something wrong with the car.

 

1st - check your charger J*%#$sport made a real pigs ar5e of my car when it was there.

 

 

How to test your boost levels - UK spec cars

 

1. Start Engine

 

2. Move the MFA selector to "2"

 

3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding)

 

4. Stop engine

 

5. Start engine

 

6. Release the MFA end button.

 

7. Press the MFA End button one time.

 

 

You should now see 450-800 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 800 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 450 is probably too much timing advance.

 

Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got.

 

A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape!

 

EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments

200 -23.7

400 -17.8

600 -11.9

800 -5.9

1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed)

1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak)

1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak)

1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak)

1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley)

2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger)

2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) :rambo:

 

2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended

 

 

If that's okay then check the DIY section of http://www.snstuning.com this has a few more ideas

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the mfa wont be accurate as its used to calculating at a given rate for a standard car. 17mpg is too low.

 

check yer plugs to confim richness. adjust the co-pot if necessary using a wideband to confirm.

 

my red tops and 65mm return around 27mpg on a cruise so....

 

do you get good cycle on the AF gauge. gotta prove that your o2 system is working properly. Gs run lean on partial and rich on throttle so...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

righto then, i'm pretty certain somthings amiss now the exhaust is acky black and on startup i can even get a whiff of petrol so its safe to assume its running way rich is the a simple way to adjust the mixture or can anyone recomend sombody in the manchester area that is honest enough and capable of sorting this out , i'm sorry gazza but i didnt understand some of your post could you clarify , co-pot? wideband? red tops? sorry if i seem like a dufus but i'm new to this heap

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The CO_potentiometer is mounted on top of the boost hose before the throttle body. its the black block type thing with a wire coming out. this is how you adjust the fueling. A wideband is a system that tells you the air to fuel ratio. its called wideband due to the fact that it covers a wide range of ratios. Red tops are bigger injectors than standard.

 

First you need to find the cause of the problem. is it just running rich or is something causing to run rich like a bad o2 probe or wiring or blue temp sensor or...

 

first check the ohm on the CO_pot. get a multimeter and test ping 1 and 3 set on 2kohm.

A AF gauge will give you a good idea of if O2(and other things) is working or not. if not get a multimeter and test for a fluctuating voltage on the purple(after o2 sensor plug) or black(before plug) wire. this is the wire that tells the ECU whats-what and the ECU corrects the fueling to attain 14.5:1 for off boost activities.

 

from what ive seen when the probe does itll give no reading back. this makes the ECU thinks its running lean, it then throws more fuel in and so runs rich coughs out black and chuggs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bootsy, I will prolly be had up soon for advertising but Awesome isn't that far from Manchester. Andy in the workshop knows his stuff.

Incidently I just cured the massive consumption problem on my mk3 16V. Whilst fitting some suspension I found the lambda probe tied up to the heat shield! :shock: There was a cat and probe bypass pipe fitted! The previous owner must have been a complete kno b.

 

Fitting the probe back in the exhaust gave me an instant 10mpg improvement! Hurrah! Tony gets less of my hard earned. :lol:

 

Gaviin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I still think we place to much faith in the MFA. Ive seen anywhere between 2 and 22 mpg in traffic. So clearly the way my mpg is working is not correct. It is so good that if you go down a hill and stick it in neutral the mpg goes up. Where as if you go down a hill and take your foot off the throttle it should go up (but it doesn’t) so when the fuel cut off comes on fuel consumption should increase (I'm well out of my depth here in terms of technical knowledge).

 

So my question is how do I adjust mine as I said I done a manual calculation and I’m getting over 30 mpg but my MFA is restricted to not showing greater than 22 (unless I push the car) haven drive a few hire car skodas they have a real time fuel consumption and a average the real time is all over the place but gives you a fair idea what is going on. I just don’t think the technology used in the Corrado is up to much. My Fuel gauge goes from full to a quarter in no time. Then sits on a quarter for half a tank. I have also had the gauge go well into the white below the read. I know this is a very bad thing to do but I leave as little petrol as possible in it most of the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i was getting 5mpg from start up this morning in traffic :(

 

but once moving it went to 18. but if i reset it the mfa the reading would be 28-30.

 

on average i get 28mpgs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that mk3 eh Gav. bet u wish u aint bought it now.

 

Awesome are good. never had the car done there but....

 

Depending where you are in manchester. Boardmans may be able to help. theyre in newton heath.

 

you could pop along to the next warrington ClubGTi meet. Gavin will be there id expect and i may turn up myself too. we may be able to shed some light on it for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've actually been to awesome about this and i think the less said the better really :? they did good wqork on the goosed bottom pully but didnt get much help with the rest they really didnt seem intrested i'll definately, pop along to the next meet, i'll get a bank loan so i can afford the juice :lol: so Gazza, you seem to know your stuff fancy a job ?........ i'll pay honestly :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing to not forget - Corrados (all VWs actually) have rear brake calipers prone to seizing. That will cost you around 3-5 mpg, particularly at motorway speeds.

Mine is a VR and pre-calipers (i.e. with seized ones) I'd get 27/28mpg on the motorway, with new calipers I regularly see 31-33 mpg.

Worth checking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am surprised, did they know you had shitty gas mileage? It may have been summat to do with incorrect timing. I did see your crank, it was definately Donald ducked. It would have cost a lot more if you'd had the engine rebuilt .

 

It could be that your probe is trashed and doing the same as my MK3. Does it seem to pull ok, or is it flat?

 

The MK3 is nearly sorted now, all the crap has come off it. Only the Supersprint to go on and we'll call it a day. Until I stick some KR cams in it and and and....

 

Gavin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sorry if i gave the wrong impression :shock: awesome did very good work on the inital problem and sorted out what could have been expensive but it was very difficult to get them intrested after that , dont know why just was i gave up in the end as it was coming off the road for paint (i'm a painter by the way) but now its back in action i just cant live with the consumption the confusing thing is in almost every way it runs fine it maybe a little down on performance but i'm told thses are heavy cars anyway

I should probably have mentioned that ive already changed the blue temp sensor for a new one i'll buy an o2 probe and fit it just in case

Does anyone know when the gti meetings in warrington :? are ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You just missed it on Monday mate. Don't buy a probe on spec mate. might not be that and you have wasted the money. Have a look on http://www.vwvortex.com in the G60 forum, there is loads of good info in there about running problems. Look for stuff by mrkrad he is one of the fellas behind SNS. http://www.snstuning.com

 

You can isolate the probe by taping up the WOT switch on the throttle body. If the car runs better, it could be the probe. Investigate before spending. How are you vacuum pipes? Lots of cheap jobs before buying probes.

 

Could even be bad wiring, ask Gazza about wirning, he is THE expert!! :lol:

 

Gavin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
righto then, i'm pretty certain somthings amiss now the exhaust is acky black and on startup i can even get a whiff of petrol so its safe to assume its running way rich is the a simple way to adjust the mixture or can anyone recomend sombody in the manchester area that is honest enough and capable of sorting this out , i'm sorry gazza but i didnt understand some of your post could you clarify , co-pot? wideband? red tops? sorry if i seem like a dufus but i'm new to this heap

 

http://www.dubsport.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...