Headlight Loom

[mic_VR 3]

Anyone bought and fitted one of these?

 

Ebay Loom

 

Any good? Easy to Fit? etc etc

 

If these are any good they might be purchased as I don't feel like driving all the way to Karmann with my current headlights.

[AlgarveVR6 0]

Yeah I have one. easy to fit, mine was well labelled. Made a big difference.

Just if you want side lights, mine is a bit funny. Have to switch on dipped, then switch to side and then pull stalk like yuou want main on. maybe I just wired it wrong.

Good enuff tho

Dic

[Critical_Mass 10]

Yeah I have one. easy to fit, mine was well labelled. Made a big difference.

Just if you want side lights, mine is a bit funny. Have to switch on dipped, then switch to side and then pull stalk like yuou want main on. maybe I just wired it wrong.

Good enuff tho

Dic

 

Over the last couple of weeks ive noticed when i've flashed main beam to let people out of junctions etc, that they were taking ages to respond, im frantically flashing to let them know they can go. I said to the girlfriend - 'how come people are taking a while to see me flashing, or are they being stupid?' Anyway, turns out that my full beam isnt working, so flashing doesnt do anything other then turn the main beam off to side lights IF i have the headlights on?

 

Any ideas why i would have main beam and dipped but not flash? Lose wire?

[davidwort 0]

If you want a reliable long term modification to the lighting then a combination of a relayed setup well protected from the elements and some higher wattage or preferably higher light output bulbs is a good idea, but, I'm not keen on any of the e-bay or other aftermarket relay setups I've seen, it's all very well buying something with OEM connectors so you don't have to cut into your cars loom, but the single or even double relay ones I've seen risk you loosing all your dip or main beam in one go if a relay sticks or a fuse pops.

I'd try some new 50% brighter bulbs to start with, providing the reflectors in your lights are not the problem, old bulbs are always dimmer than new and higher light output bulbs won't put any more strain on your existing loom and switchgear as they are rated at the same Wattage (55/60 - which is strictly the only legal one for these lights).

There is a significant voltage drop at the lights through the standard wiring, especially as it's old now, but I'd recommend building your own multi relay and multi fused setup so you have separate relays for each side and dip and main beam, which if you feed the centre spots from the same main beam feed each side means having four relays.

 

On second look, that e-bay one uses crush connector terminals and no oem connector blocks, I'd avoid.

[g60karmann 0]

does anyone on the forum do uprated head light loom kits? I know Gavin used to before moving abroad

 

if not does anyone have a list of parts and suppliers?

[mic_VR 3]

Cheers for the info guys.

 

Critical Mass, sorry mate but I'm rubbish with electrics so have no idea what could be wrong with yours

 

David, tried new bulbs etc but to no avail. I'm going to get all the aims checked to see if that makes a difference but I'm not holding out much hope. I'd love to build one based on OEM connectors but I wouldn't know where to start or where to get the parts.

 

g60karmann, there were a couple of people that do the wiring looms but I think they've stopped now and a list of parts/suppliers would be great if there is one

[davidwort 0]

I think these guys do the connector blocks, I built one from wiring, relays, connectors, shrink tubing etc mainly from Maplins, all housed in a sealed box, that was over 7 years ago and there's no trace of any water ingress or corrosion.

I've run 80/100W main bulbs with this too and any additional heat hasn't damaged the reflectors, but to be fair I don't do a huge amount of miles or night driving, just dipped beam commuting for an hour or so each day in the winter. I will try some 50% brighter ones soon as I can get them fairly cheap and would rather not run the illegal 80/100w ones.

 

TBH it's not a difficult job, just time consuming getting all the wiring the right length and binding together.

I've used 4 relays but at it's simplest a single relay is just 4 wires, earth, live, switching feed(from the VW loom) and the live feed to the lights, just do that 4 times really for dip left/right, main left/right. You can even get relays with a built in blade fuse so that's one less thing to wire in yourself.

 

just found this I wrote up from when I did mine:

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfheadlight-relay-notes.txt[/attachment:1aq9k8gi]

headlight-relay.PDF[/attachment:1aq9k8gi]

[millerman 0]

i have the sx5 kit that matey does and it easy to fit and works well

if you do buy one just make sure to cover up the relays to stop any water getting in to them

but a good buy if you ask me

[Critical_Mass 10]

i have the sx5 kit that matey does and it easy to fit and works well

if you do buy one just make sure to cover up the relays to stop any water getting in to them

but a good buy if you ask me

 

Same here. I also used some bathroom sealant to seal where the wires connected into the relay holder.

[VR6 0]

Not related to engines ... moving to Exterior.

[Critical_Mass 10]

'....things under your bonnet." ;)

 

But yeah i agree - exterior

[mic_VR 3]

Not related to engines ... moving to Exterior.

 

Ha! wondered how long it would take. Must admit I had a bit of fun deciding where to put it originally, but figured the lights were exterior but the loom itself is engine bay. :wink:

[Dec 1]

Another useful guide to building one of the looms:

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

 

That 'vehicle Wiring' website is very useful. The headlight plugs, and proper sized cable tags to fit into it can also be got through ARZ

[mic_VR 3]

Good call on that site Dec, very informative and really good wiring diagram. Even I can understand it! :lol:

[snattrass 0]

Fabulous guide David and great complimenting document Dec!

 

 

David, just wondering where to position everything.

 

 

Did u use both the passenger side and drivers side switch feeds (dip and main beam) to switch the passenger and driver side relays respectively or did u simply tape up the drivers side switching feeds and take both the passenger and drivers side feeds from the passenger side where the relays are planned to be housed? Is there any advantage in using all of the 4 feeds as u have portrayed in ur diagram? It just seems unnecessarily duplicating for the wires to go from the drivers side lamps to the relays next to the battery and then all the way back again. The wire that I am using is heavier gauge than is necessary.

 

 

Also since I have a couple of relays with twin outs (to the lights) is there any disadvantage in just going ahead and using these rather 4 relays?

 

 

Thank u, Simon