dr_mat 0 Posted January 23, 2004 As for my ABS problems, since resetting the codes, I had the light come on once on my way home (but this was whilst driving, crucially, so probably is down to a dodgy sensor), but it's not come on during cold starts any more. I will not be holding my breath, cos I'm sure it *will* come back on at some point, but... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
awright182 0 Posted January 23, 2004 I'll try and explain better. I tested the resistance of the sensors. I tested them at the connectors on the tops of the struts and they are both arounf 1000 Ohms. I took the bases of the rear seats out and tested again and those were also 1000 Ohms give or take a bit. I then tested the resistance on the bits of the connectors that don't go to the sensors, presumably they go to the control unit, or the pump or something. Three were 100 Ohm whilst the front right hand side was open circuit i.e no connection. I then warmed the car up, got the ABS working and the fourth one then also had a resistance of 100 Ohm. So, i must have a break or bad connection in that circuit. The question is once it leaves the sensor the wiring travels up to the top of the strut but where does it go next? Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
awright182 0 Posted January 23, 2004 Steve, I think you have posted the info I wanted. It agrees with what i read in the Bentley manual. Are we talking about the unit attached to the firewall with the brake pipes emerging on it. The reason i am confused is because Bentley talks of something under the rear of the car. Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted January 23, 2004 Andy , if you check the wires running away from the sensor you are measuring the resistance inside the ABS control unit. Ona Golf it is fixed to the inside of the back panel. Not sure where it is on a C though. Maybe in one of the quarter panels in the back?? Follow the wires and see. It would be worth disconnecting and re-connecting the ABS ECU. It might be a shitty contact? Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted January 23, 2004 ABS brain is behind the LH side front kick panel on a 'rado. Take the L/H lower dash shelf off, then take off the outer trim and it's hiding there... 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
awright182 0 Posted January 23, 2004 Thanks Henny, I feel like I'm getting somewhere now. Thinking about it it was replaced under warranty when the car was very young because VW didn't use enough sealant and the rain got in. I always assumed it was in the engine bay though. i'll have a go at it this weekend. it's a lot easier to work on the car in daylight than in the garage. Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevef 0 Posted January 23, 2004 Andy The unit under the bonnet is the ABS modulator. From your description the problem is not on that unit. As said above, the control unit is in the LH kick panel. The sensor cables are the thick black ones. Happy hunting. Stevef Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
awright182 0 Posted January 24, 2004 Well I stripped the passenger footwell. The "brain" was in a plastic bag. I took the plug of it and gave both sides a dousing of switch cleaner. It didn't make any difference so I went back to basics. I got my old swing needle meter out and that is telling me the drivers side front sensor is dead. Seems like the digimeter is giving false readings. I've decided to change the sensor and see if it makes a difference. Getting the old sensor off wasn't easy. 10 years worth of crud meant I had to take the brake disc off to attack it from both sides. Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted January 24, 2004 Getting the old sensor off wasn't easy. 10 years worth of crud meant I had to take the brake disc off to attack it from both sides. Andy Yup, usually you have to apply slightly unsubtle use of a large hammer and a screwdriver to get the old sensors out! :wink: :roll: If you didn't need a sensor before, you sure will after! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
akacheesy 0 Posted February 2, 2004 My mate sorted mine at the weekend, was as simple as a relay fuse found in the passenger side footwell. I thought all the fuses were in the fuse board on the drivers side but obviously not! total cost to fix £0.00 Happy days!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted February 2, 2004 My ABS light has gone away too.. though I'm not counting any chickens yet with this damn car. (See my thread on fuel pumps.) It seems that the ABS needed an error code reset, which was done, and the ABS voltage warning never came back.. (So far.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Thorpe 10 Posted June 6, 2012 My ABS light never lights up at all, even when I turn the ignition on. It is also clear that the ABS isn't working as I am able to lock up my front wheels. Any suggestions? Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted June 6, 2012 Id start off by verifying that your ABS bulb has not blown, easily done by popping out the PCB from the ABS light unit, you may be able to see the bulb has blown, if not, simply use a multi-meter or another bulb and touch the terminals... I have ABS light bulbs, you'd just need to solder it onto the PCB. 10 minute job.... you will probably find that you have a fault code stored, so id advise to clear the fault codes using VAG-COM, see what comes back and go from there, you can always do simple things like removing the multi-plugs and checking for corrosion, clean up, apply WD-40 etc... sometimes the ABS ECU plug can be subjected to water ingress, my plug was totally knackered, stuck a new ECU in, job done.... theres also some relays / fuses, also check these, one of my fuses fell apart upon removal, this also cured another fault code on VAG-COM too. hopefully once you have checked the basics, and have ran VAG-COM through it you will be in a better position to verify the issues... im in stoke if your near and would happily run vag-com through it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Thorpe 10 Posted June 6, 2012 Thanks, I'll have a look into all of these. Im in Leeds but I had the Fuel Injection tuned a couple of months back. They plugged into the ECU and the only error they mentioned was that it was running rich. I'll be in touch with my findings. Thanks Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted June 7, 2012 ABS ECU is separate from the mail engine ECU. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR-Sixy 0 Posted June 21, 2012 Noticed recently that i have no ABS light at all. So the bulb has probably blown. First time it's been constantly off for years!! :) :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Thorpe 10 Posted September 4, 2012 Hi, should there only be ABS sensors on the front of the Corrado. A guy at the garage said he'd never seen a car with ABS on the front but not on the back :-S Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted September 4, 2012 Nah they are on the back too mate tgey go under the rear seats Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Thorpe 10 Posted September 4, 2012 I'll check the seats for wiring but there's no wiring or sensors on the rear wheels. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gripper924 0 Posted September 14, 2012 My Corrado is perfect....except the damn ABS. Thanks for all the advise above, I may need it if I am forced to reconnect the ABS ....read on - 3 years ago the ABS light would not go out. VAGCOM said fault was the ECU. ECU tested (twice) and reported to be okay. After 5 weeks off the road I got the ABS light wired to the battery light and it passed the MOT. Last year the ABS cut in for no reason at low speed when I braked, so getting fed up I disconnected the ABS. NOW, there seems to be an electrical current kick back from the alternator and the car has failed its MOT because the ABS light flickers on when you turn off the ignition and the MOT tester noticed this. What do I do? Try to resolve the electrical current return?, OR r-econnect the ABS, disconnect the ABS light from the battery light and re-install the whole system again (at great expense no doubt). Gutted about this as the MOT has now expired and I cannot drive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James. 9 Posted September 15, 2012 I've heard of some removing the ABS completely. The car can't fail if it doesn't have it fitted. Early cars didn't have it. On a more basic level, have you checked all the wiring ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR-Sixy 0 Posted October 29, 2012 Just got Senor Corrado MOT'd for another year today, just a couple of advisories that i can take care of at my leisure....... BUT, had to do a norty!! My ABS light has now totally gone out for lunch, and i had to do a bit of skull-duggery with the switches yesterday morning before taking it over to the garage for this morning. I yanked out the ABS dashboard switch, un-hooked it and replaced it with the 'blank' that was underneath the Spot/Rear Fog switches. I put some insulation tape of the front of it to hide the 'ABS' printing on it and shoved it down the botton where it's partially obscured by the steering wheel. Thankfully, the MOT tester didn't evening notice and i now have a MOT cert for another year. I was sweating on this one - really!! Still, alls well that end well i suppose!! :) :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brunty's Dad 10 Posted August 24, 2016 Bloody ABS. MOT fail for light not going off. Worked perfectly until MOT day. I borrowed a Launch Creader which gave the following error codes '112 - ABS inlet valve rear left' , '116 - Main ABS valve' and '119 - Road Speed Sender. G68' Any advice please Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 24, 2016 Bloody ABS. MOT fail for light not going off. Worked perfectly until MOT day. I borrowed a Launch Creader which gave the following error codes '112 - ABS inlet valve rear left' ' date=' '116 - Main ABS valve' and '119 - Road Speed Sender. G68' Any advice please[/quote'] sounds like the ABS unit needs a refurb & a faulty speed sensor on one of the corners Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brunty's Dad 10 Posted August 24, 2016 'sounds like the ABS unit needs a refurb' Do you mean the pump? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites