G60 help please, im out of ideas

[G Charged 0]

OK..these are a couple of issues ive had with my corrado G60 and its doing my nut in now as the cars my daily driver. I belive that these may be all linked, its had a complete engine rebuild with almost everything engine related replaced. Ill explain the issues which i belive not to be normal, please let me know if they are normal.

 

First thing is starting from cold, sometimes it will not fire up 1st time, however once started will chug for about 3-5 secondslike its misfiring and then idle fine. Starting from warm isnt an issue, about a second or so.

 

Secondly is consumption, the fuel computer starts reading at 1mpg from cold (have tried this once after driving after letting it warm for about 30 seconds to get that value) and is shocking untill it is warm. I always let the car warm up to 50 degrees oil temp (which takes about 5-6 mins)and then drive gently untill 80 deg is reached, this will do about 7mpg up to about 15/17mpg around town sensible driving.

 

She will happily do around 34mpg max on the motorway, and i can achive 20-22mpg on duel carigeways etc but as soon as i stop, just on idle the mpg drops to around 14mpg and will hover around this value..occacionaly dropped to 7mpg or lower.

 

Thirdly the exhaust, shes emptied out the baffles in the middle box and backbox 3 times now....this then makes my car preeetty loud , on idle its very kinda lumpyish...kinda like a spitfire or something, lol, this is a longlife-wolfrace system...at the moment its been a month since having a new exhaust made and i think the silencers have emptied as it sounds like its blowing..but its not...its like a ticking sound coming from the middle silencer..it wasnt loud and tick when the exhaust was just done.

 

i feel like a chav at traffic lights :(

 

Fourthly, oil, she leaks oil worse then a leaky OAP... it looks like its the headgasket thats leaking oil?????? but i dont think thats possible..so im thinking its the rocker cover gasket (gsf)which is leaking down, this is around cylinder one.. and the sump, but im just gona use gasket seal on the TDI baffle plate gasket, i thought id mention this anyhow.

 

Fifthly..if i leave the engine to its own cooling system the water temp shoots to over 100 deg before the fan comes in, and its only the slow speed,which is why at the moment ive got a switch in my glovebox which i switch on myself at 90deg, this keeps the water temp at a constant 90deg. There is currently only water in the system, but it behaved the same with G12+ which it then leaked from a burst hose :brickwall:

ive got an external oil cooler so its not the oil heating the water up either.

 

as for actually driving, she seems to pull ok, to me she feels abit slow to me, but is very torquey, its out accelerated my friends integra type r, n/a supra, vectra gsi, i dont know if thats normal G60 behaviour.

 

Im on a bit of a downer with the car at the moment as its costing me so much and im constantly worried its going to break....i alsmost swapped it for a xr3i on the 31'st when it ran out of tax, thankfully decided against it, thought id give you guys a shot before i think about breaking it for spares.

 

all help is welcomed, any negative comments please just PM me so i can keep this thread on topic.

 

Thanks!!

[Toad 0]

If the fuel economy is down and it's melting baffles out your exhaust pipe, sounds like the timing is out...

[G Charged 0]

the cam belt timing has been done as per the guide on this site, and the dizzy timing as done by a merc specialist using his fancy snap on gun (i had a print out of the guide form here)

 

i will double check it has not moved tommorow but i dont see how it would have...

 

to clarify, i want to hold the revs at 2000rpm and make sure the mark on the flywheel that does not have a 0 next to it should meet the marker on the gearbox housing at tdc for cyl 1

[MattWilde 10]

where are you based? a check up from a good G60 garage (stealth, G-Werks, Voodoo, etc. etc.) could solve the problems very quickly. It does sound like the timing is well out, so it could be sorted in an hour. G60 timing is an odd thing, so do a quick search to find a guide and print it out if you are too far from a specialist and need to go to a local garage.

don't give up, and good luck

[MattWilde 10]

answered whilst i was typing, so ignore me :)

[MattWilde 10]

just to clarify with the dizzy timing, the blue temp sender must be unplugged and the car rev'd 3 times over 3K rpm and left to settle to idle each time. Then with a programable strobe (not one that runs off the HT leads) set to 6 degrees advance set the dizzy timing

[dirtytorque 0]

thats quite a list of symptoms.

 

Re,cold starting

have you looked at the blue temp sender?

or isv?

 

assuming you have checked the basic components of the cooling system etc has your head gasket sealed up nicely after re-build?

[sparks 0]

First thing is starting from cold, sometimes it will not fire up 1st time, however once started will chug for about 3-5 secondslike its misfiring and then idle fine. Starting from warm isnt an issue, about a second or so.

 

sounds to me like spark plug i had the same problem fit wr6dp0 bosch items (check the part code not to sure on that )

 

Secondly is consumption, the fuel computer starts reading at 1mpg from cold (have tried this once after driving after letting it warm for about 30 seconds to get that value) and is shocking untill it is warm. I always let the car warm up to 50 degrees oil temp (which takes about 5-6 mins)and then drive gently untill 80 deg is reached, this will do about 7mpg up to about 15/17mpg around town sensible driving.

 

i get only 5mpg on a very cold morning on a short joruney !!! the car never gets off "choke " and the mfa has been know to play up its best calculating via petrol in to miles done

 

 

Fifthly..if i leave the engine to its own cooling system the water temp shoots to over 100 deg before the fan comes in, and its only the slow speed,which is why at the moment ive got a switch in my glovebox which i switch on myself at 90deg, this keeps the water temp at a constant 90deg. There is currently only water in the system, but it behaved the same with G12+ which it then leaked from a burst hose

ive got an external oil cooler so its not the oil heating the water up either

 

the g60 has 2 temp senders i belive one could be shot replace both (some will comfirm this)

 

 

as for actually driving, she seems to pull ok, to me she feels abit slow to me, but is very torquey, its out accelerated my friends integra type r, n/a supra, vectra gsi, i dont know if thats normal G60 behaviour.

yes its normal the G60 is a light car with alot of power and torque from the charger if you can get the power down on the road your out strip most hot hatches 0-60 is about 6.5 secs in standard trim if yours is modded which it sounds like it is you will be quicker

 

Im on a bit of a downer with the car at the moment as its costing me so much and im constantly worried its going to break....i alsmost swapped it for a xr3i on the 31'st when it ran out of tax, thankfully decided against it, thought id give you guys a shot before i think about breaking it for spares.

 

welcome to the ownership of a corrado its a love hate one as most will tell you on here

there a great little sport car when they run right and a right pain when they dont

 

hope this helps

stu ..

[g60karmann 0]

First thing is starting from cold, sometimes it will not fire up 1st time, however once started will chug for about 3-5 secondslike its misfiring and then idle fine. Starting from warm isnt an issue, about a second or so.

 

sounds to me like spark plug i had the same problem fit wr6dp0 bosch items (check the part code not to sure on that )

 

I would agree with sparks on this one I would also check the coil, leads and earths. I had a more severe version of this were it would be lumpy from start then cut out when you used the throttle, turned out to be a dodgy earth on one of the gauges :scratch:

[flusted 0]

chugging could be leaky injectors

[G Charged 0]

just to clarify with the dizzy timing, the blue temp sender must be unplugged and the car rev'd 3 times over 3K rpm and left to settle to idle each time. Then with a programable strobe (not one that runs off the HT leads) set to 6 degrees advance set the dizzy timing

 

ahh this could be a factor, everything was set like that but the car wasnt allowed to idle after reaching 3k... im going to pop down and have the timing checked now by sumone who only does diagnostics and timing.

 

 

thats quite a list of symptoms.

 

Re,cold starting

have you looked at the blue temp sender?

or isv?

 

assuming you have checked the basic components of the cooling system etc has your head gasket sealed up nicely after re-build?

 

 

i cant see a gasket not sealing...ive never had an issue with one before this car, however will do a compression test to rule this out, the blye temp sender and the black one have been replaced with VW ones after the gsf ones didnt let the car start, isv seems to tick, will see if i can borrow one to rule this out aswel...would this affect cold start really??

 

 

First thing is starting from cold, sometimes it will not fire up 1st time, however once started will chug for about 3-5 secondslike its misfiring and then idle fine. Starting from warm isnt an issue, about a second or so.

 

sounds to me like spark plug i had the same problem fit wr6dp0 bosch items (check the part code not to sure on that )

 

with the old engine the car had polo g40 ones when i checked the part number, with the new engine i used the recomended bocsh g60 ones , wr6dp0 sounds about right, i thikn the g40 ones had a R in the part number

 

 

Secondly is consumption, the fuel computer starts reading at 1mpg from cold (have tried this once after driving after letting it warm for about 30 seconds to get that value) and is shocking untill it is warm. I always let the car warm up to 50 degrees oil temp (which takes about 5-6 mins)and then drive gently untill 80 deg is reached, this will do about 7mpg up to about 15/17mpg around town sensible driving.

 

 

i get only 5mpg on a very cold morning on a short joruney !!! the car never gets off "choke " and the mfa has been know to play up its best calculating via petrol in to miles done

 

ahh so the fuel consumption seems about right then? i was under the impression my cold start/choke was not working correctly as thats a hell of a lot of fuel! for a 1.8 :tongue: and does smell of fuel when i had a friend rev it for me as i stood behind it

 

 

Fifthly..if i leave the engine to its own cooling system the water temp shoots to over 100 deg before the fan comes in, and its only the slow speed,which is why at the moment ive got a switch in my glovebox which i switch on myself at 90deg, this keeps the water temp at a constant 90deg. There is currently only water in the system, but it behaved the same with G12+ which it then leaked from a burst hose

ive got an external oil cooler so its not the oil heating the water up either

 

 

the g60 has 2 temp senders i belive one could be shot replace both (some will comfirm this)

 

i know theres the 2 sensors blue and black which are on the front of the head these are water teperature, and theres the radiator fan switch which is 3 pole in the rad itself, and another little sensor which is next to the fuel pressure regulator (i have this disconected) which is to run the fan after the engine is switched off

 

 

so do people think my issue of killing exhaust baffles, and lumpy idle (the lower idle) is to do with timing? had a friend suggest if its overfueling that it will destroy baffles..funily enough it used to shoot flames on my old supersprint system...

 

cheers to all, i feel abit better about her just reading all this lol

[dirtytorque 0]

isv lets more air in on cold start to aid with the extra fuel needed to run a cold engine.Saying thay though I don't think it is your problem.

In fact it sounds like you may have more than one prob.

Dunno.

Keep us posted.

[SamG40 0]

If its the same as a 40 (which I think it is) the black temp sender is just the sender for the temp dial. Blue ones do cause a lot of greif though.

[iow_corrado_g60 0]

just out of intrest for the oil check your oil feed to the super charger if not there then the outlet on the left side of the head shouldnt be losing much from there though if engine is totally rebuilt as for the rest i would take the same route as everyone else!

[Majik 0]

"its had a complete engine rebuild with almost everything engine related replaced."

Was the inlet manifold taken off the head? if so were new gaskets fitted?

 

"i cant see a gasket not sealing...ive never had an issue with one before this car, however will do a compression test to rule this out, the blye temp sender and the black one have been replaced with VW ones after the gsf ones didnt let the car start, isv seems to tick, will see if i can borrow one to rule this out aswel...would this affect cold start really??"

 

I agree but dont think its the head gasket the starting problem sounds more like the inlet manifold gasket sucking in too much air. Were all the vacuum hoses put back on correctly?

You could rule out the leak by applying water mix with fairly liquid around the joint of the inlet manifold against the head

Regards

[G Charged 0]

just out of intrest for the oil check your oil feed to the super charger if not there then the outlet on the left side of the head shouldnt be losing much from there though if engine is totally rebuilt as for the rest i would take the same route as everyone else!

 

checked and these are fine.

 

"its had a complete engine rebuild with almost everything engine related replaced."

Was the inlet manifold taken off the head? if so were new gaskets fitted?

 

"i cant see a gasket not sealing...ive never had an issue with one before this car, however will do a compression test to rule this out, the blye temp sender and the black one have been replaced with VW ones after the gsf ones didnt let the car start, isv seems to tick, will see if i can borrow one to rule this out aswel...would this affect cold start really??"

 

I agree but dont think its the head gasket the starting problem sounds more like the inlet manifold gasket sucking in too much air. Were all the vacuum hoses put back on correctly?

You could rule out the leak by applying water mix with fairly liquid around the joint of the inlet manifold against the head

Regards

 

new gaskets were used, i will put money down on these not leaking as this was done on the engine stand and torqed and all cylinder head mating surfaces had a light skim to ensure they was flat, vacuum hoses are all on as before and the Carbon Canister is removed.

[waynos 0]

dunno if this helps but mine never used to start nicely from cold, i was in my fuel tank trying to sort my gauge sender out and i noticed one of the fuel pipes had the tiniest slit in it. This caused the fuel system to lose almost all pressure over time. i had the same kind of chugging for a few seconds and it started ok from warm too. May not be your problem but its worth a try. I know how frustrating it can be!