Chris Langdon 0 Posted December 21, 2008 can any body tell me if this is in the correct order and that nothings missing etc, im worried i have a washer missing or something :cuckoo: lol cheers chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G Charged 0 Posted December 21, 2008 To be honest, I'm not a fan of polybushes, The original bushes lasted 17 years and 200,000 miles in mine, so i'm going to replace with the same stuff. I don't think there would be much difference between brand new OE bushes and brand new poly bushes in terms of how your car is transformed. Totaly agree with you there mate, I would prefer to go OE, however the only reason im going polybush is because for one they are easier to fit in the beam, its not im expecting them to be better then new OE bush, just better then whats on the car at the moment also polybushing the car works out cheaper for me. (poor ass student syndrome) TBH im not expecting a miricle from them as my old astra GTE16v used to eat polybushes like a fat kid eating cake, and not lasting very long, nobody seems to have that problem on corrados, so ill see how that goes I guess..still a bit dubious. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted December 21, 2008 Chris i believe that is the correct order mate. :) EDIT - correction the larger nut should go on first and the one with the shoulder last. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Langdon 0 Posted December 28, 2008 hi i have just finished fitting my coilovers and am not 100% sure if i have set it up right as i basically measured from the bottom of the strut to the first turning ring on the front (120mm on each one) this equalled in a ground to centre of arch ride height of 592mm on the o/s/f and 598mm on the n/s/f. On the rear i did the same 155mm on each strut giving me a 595mm on the o/s/r and 598mm on the n/s/r!!! is there a more better or more accurate way of doing it, also does the suspension need time to bed in if so how many miles time period etc, should i keep measuring it over the next couple of weeks??? cheers chris p.s joinerboy here are the part numbers: 1911512333 ring 1H0412365A Threaded bush 357412331A Strut mounting S1J0412249 Bearing N10209009 Nut N10174002 Bolt 191512339 Washer 191512335 ring N90517302 Hex Screw HD N90323704 Nut Hope this helps cheers chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Langdon 0 Posted December 29, 2008 p.s i have included a photo of the new stance let us know what u think, i think it looks a litlle low at the rear, but it is on a slop :) sorry for the quality of the photo as it was taken on my phone! regards chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted December 29, 2008 Hard to tell with it being on a slat anyway. Could you get a pic of it on a flatter surface? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted December 29, 2008 Chris i believe that is the correct order mate. :) EDIT - correction the larger nut should go on first and the one with the shoulder last. how important is that?, as i did mine the other way round, (am sure it all came off that way) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted December 29, 2008 Cant see it mattering that much. But im pretty sure the nut with the washer was on top. when i took my suspension apart. The silver nut in the pic which is the self locking nut isnt it, so should go on last (top) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lufbramatt 0 Posted December 30, 2008 the order in the pic is correct AFAIK. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mariojoshi 1 Posted December 30, 2008 This probably won't go down too well with some people on here, BUT - I personally wouldn't bother replacing everything just for the sake of it. How long are you planning on having your VR6? Forever? OK - then go for it. If, like me, it's probably a few years, there's virtually no point, unless things are showing definite signs of wear. It's the same with the bloody gruven crackpipe - people buy it because. For virtually no other reason. The originals last about 12 years, so why not save a huge load of money and get another plastic one which will last another 12... I think that mantaining a car to the highest standards is a lovely idea.. but it's financially utopian! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vwdeviant 0 Posted December 30, 2008 I think that mantaining a car to the highest standards is a lovely idea.. but it's financially utopian! Comes from the man with a BMCDA AND Samcos! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie_t 0 Posted December 30, 2008 To be honest, I'm not a fan of polybushes, The original bushes lasted 17 years and 200,000 TBH im not expecting a miricle from them as my old astra GTE16v used to eat polybushes like a fat kid eating cake, and not lasting very long, nobody seems to have that problem on corrados, so ill see how that goes I guess..still a bit dubious. That all depends of the quality of bush you go for, I put some cheap ones from rallye design on my corrado, wore out in 50 miles!!! This probably won't go down too well with some people on here, BUT - I personally wouldn't bother replacing everything just for the sake of it. How long are you planning on having your VR6? Forever? OK - then go for it. If, like me, it's probably a few years, there's virtually no point, unless things are showing definite signs of wear. It's the same with the bloody gruven crackpipe - people buy it because. For virtually no other reason. The originals last about 12 years, so why not save a huge load of money and get another plastic one which will last another 12... I think that mantaining a car to the highest standards is a lovely idea.. but it's financially utopian! As a mechanic I totally agree with you, at my work we get loads of coustomers that want everything changing as one part is worn, yeah its nice to do it all in one go and save so much time and hassele but then once you have spent more than the car is worth (just add Im a mechanic at a independent land rover specialist) and they cant afford to pay the bill where do you go from there? On the other hand mind my g60 is proper ticking me off now as I started out just changing bits as required I'm now under it every weekend fast lossing the joy of it. I guess its all about time and money and what you like doing with both. Oh and something to consider when lowering you beloved is the rear brake pipes on the beam. I have had to route mine under the beam instead of on top as they were crushed between the beam and body, (these were factory steel pipes) and I have only lowered it about 50mm but do live a rural and very very bumpy area. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joinerboy 0 Posted December 30, 2008 i always thought that if you mixed new parts with old then you are putting more stress on the older parts. thats my opinion but i dont know anything about mechanics :lol: anyway my corrado is 14 years old so if your talking about parts lasting 12 years, mine is overdue for replacement bits im holding on to my vr6 for as long as possible, better to do job once properly rather than having to do it again later Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Langdon 0 Posted December 30, 2008 well the job is near finished, with only headlamp adjust to do (mots friday so will do it then) and wheel alignment which i hope to do at the weekend, she sits 600mm at the rear and 595mm at the front here a pic on the flat as i took the vr out today for a test drive!!! im really impressed with H&R (cheers bill) :) it was always going to be between that and KW V1's. the build quality is excellent (struts in stainless steel) and it feels like the standard ride comfort with far better handling, even the wife said that :) lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mariojoshi 1 Posted December 30, 2008 I think that mantaining a car to the highest standards is a lovely idea.. but it's financially utopian! Comes from the man with a BMCDA AND Samcos! :lol: Heheh, the Samcos were finanically more sensible than replacing one pipe, then another, then another. The BMC is becuase I'm a massive chav! :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted December 31, 2008 That stance looks perfect :) It's worth setting it up right at the beginning. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A1 VR6 0 Posted December 31, 2008 Looks great Chris, brings back memories of Asim's moonlight stunner :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted December 31, 2008 This probably won't go down too well with some people on here, BUT - I personally wouldn't bother replacing everything just for the sake of it. How long are you planning on having your VR6? Forever? OK - then go for it. If, like me, it's probably a few years, there's virtually no point, unless things are showing definite signs of wear. It's the same with the bloody gruven crackpipe - people buy it because. For virtually no other reason. The originals last about 12 years, so why not save a huge load of money and get another plastic one which will last another 12... I think that mantaining a car to the highest standards is a lovely idea.. but it's financially utopian! You've got some good points, but... With things like the crack pipe, they're a known weak point, and for me I wanted to make sure it wouldn't bite me in the arse after I swapped my thermostat housing and waterpump, so I did it at the same time. I also picked it up off a GB on here for far less that Strictly gimps sell them for. I also fitted an alloy rad neck at the same time as mine was cracking, again, because I felt it actually needed doing, and I could aquire one for a sensible price. As soon as I have the money to finish the job, I'll be going right over my VR, replaving everything I can, not just because, but I want to get another 5 years of trouble free motoring out of the car. I'm taking my time picking parts up at sensible prices, and I do all the work myself, so it's not costing me much in the long run. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mort1414 0 Posted January 6, 2009 right iv read the thread and im looking to spend some money and tighten up the handling on the c so if i was to be fitting coilovers soon the list of other things that would be recomened to be replaced are: shocks/springs top mounts wishbones track rod ends arb drop links rear beam bushes is there anything else that would benefit from being replaced and where would be best to get these parts ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Langdon 0 Posted January 7, 2009 i personally would shop around, VAG, TPS, GSF, VAG part.com etc for the best prices unless your set on geniune parts, defo do the top mounts, wishbones look at the condition i.e back bush and lower ball joint for play!! as the wishbones are 70 quid aside (that does not include the lower ball joint and another 17quid for that each side) from VAG but you can buy the back rubber bushs for a tenner each BUT you will need a press to press them in with. The rear can be a bitch to replace, again your need a press, i keep putting it off, but i think it would a good idea to replace as Corrado's are gettin on now, and it will defo tighten up the back end. regards chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cdem 0 Posted January 7, 2009 Any difference over VR6 top mounts and 16v top mounts or are they all the same? Id assume that VR6 ones are a bit more solid as its a heavier engine but i dont know! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Langdon 0 Posted January 8, 2009 only thing to do mate is to take the part no that i put up on here and ring vw and see if it is the same, personally i would agree with you in that they are different due to the extra weight etc, but i best they are the same part no know VW!!! :) Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites