Ollies VR6

[robo22sri 10]

Will make your car run crap if split!

[OllieVR6 0]

Got a couple of bits shot blasted and powder coated. This 'radiator replacement' job is getting pretty expensive!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]70536[/ATTACH]

[ChrisL 15]

Brilliant work, have you done any cleaning on the inlet manifold etc?

 

Exactly what i'm doing at the moment, my radiator is coming off tomorrow.

 

Keep the pictures coming, theyre great for reference..

[OllieVR6 0]

Brilliant work, have you done any cleaning on the inlet manifold etc?

 

Exactly what i'm doing at the moment, my radiator is coming off tomorrow.

 

Keep the pictures coming, theyre great for reference..

 

I really want to do my inlet manifold and rocker cover satin black but I'm really stretching the budget this close to Christmas anyway. I figure I can get them off at a later date without taking the front off so maybe in January. I am however tempted to do the belt tensioner and alternator cover now as I have really good access. Bit nervous about dismantling a working alternator though.

 

Are you getting any parts powder coated? I wasn't going to but the rad support was still 'savable' and I've seen plenty that are too far gone so it would have been daft not to do it.

[ChrisL 15]

Inlet manifold is a simple job really, I did mine last year and gaskets wasn't expensive.

 

I'm going to get the crossmember / rad support done and the fan cover like you. Looking at mine they look almost new but a couple of rust patches going to grind them smooth then get them blasted and nylon coated.

I've just got a nearly new tensioner (but not sure if its better then mine), and I'm going to do my alternator as its a bit mucky. Not sure how easy it is to strip an alternator though, dont know where to start really.

[OllieVR6 0]

I chose not to do the cross member because it's in pretty good condition and I don't have the tools to remove and replace the bushes.

 

I took the bits in the photo (as well as the brace that secures the splitter to the bumper) without doing any prep so where they have been blasted you can see in the photos some pitting left behind. It didn't actually cross my mind to prep it before hand, smoothing it as well will be a nice touch.

Edited May 27, 2013 by OllieVR6
spelling

[OllieVR6 0]

Also, if you are doing the rad support, there are some sticky pads here that I couldn't see:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]70537[/ATTACH]

 

When I picked it up from the painters, they pointed out that they had melted in the oven which is a pain.

[ChrisL 15]

Cheers for the tip, i'll make sure I take them off.

 

Let me know how you get on with the Alternator strip down too.

[OllieVR6 0]

Small update. Got the front cross member and rad support fitted, just need to torque them up to the correct numbers. Also fitted the front poly engine mount that I got from Jay.

 

Next on the list is to remove the rear engine mount and jack the engine up enough to be able to get the water pump out.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]70658[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]70659[/ATTACH]

 

These were the stickers I couldn't see/didn't know about. Never mind:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]70660[/ATTACH]

Edited May 30, 2013 by OllieVR6

[OllieVR6 0]

Hrm, can't find the torque figures in the bentley manual for the cross member and rad support. Any ideas anyone?

[OllieVR6 0]

Small update. Last weekend I was ready to put the car back together, but broke this whilst trying to change the o-ring:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]71210[/ATTACH]

 

So I had to order a new one as I had previously only ordered the housing and crack pipe. That completed my collection (all new parts plus some stainless bolts and washers):

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]71211[/ATTACH]

 

Assembled and ready to go:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]71212[/ATTACH]

 

Might get some time on Saturday with any luck :)

[OllieVR6 0]

I have been out in the rain trying to fit the new crack pipe today but can't seem to get it to go in properly at the water pump end. The new o ring is making it very tough.

 

Is there a trick to it? I don't want to break it!

[Jon_vr6 1]

You'll find corrosion on the block end get some sand paper and sand it clean might take a while to get right, if youve got a drill and a sanding drill bit that makes life easier. Also when you go to put the crack pipe on apply some coolant to the end then use a block of wood and hammer to knock it home fully be gentle.

 

As said though its that corrosion thats causing the problem it needs to be smooth

Edited December 26, 2012 by Jon_vr6

[OllieVR6 0]

Cheers Jon. The block is a tad rusty so I think that must be the problem. I'll have another go tomorrow.

Edited May 27, 2013 by OllieVR6

[OllieVR6 0]

Well motivation is waning. Got as far as putting the new rad on and refilling with fluid, also refilled the pas fluid. It was dark, the battery was flat and I'd been out in the cold for 6 hours.

 

Photos tomorrow.

Edited May 27, 2013 by OllieVR6

[joebloggsVR69 0]

I've been meaning to change my radiator/pipes for about a year now.. :lol:

What's that gold topped sensor/plug thing?

[robo22sri 10]

Rad fan switch ;)

[Jon_vr6 1]

Well motivation is waning. Got as far as putting the new rad on and refilling with fluid, also refilled the pas fluid. It was dark, the battery was flat and I'd been out in the cold for 6 hours.

 

I'll actually cry if this cure all the cooling problems or if it leaks!

 

Photos tomorrow.

 

Did the crack pipe eventually go in?

[OllieVR6 0]

It did, I got some help from dad, it wasn't really a one man job. Sadly we broke the locating lug that fits into the securing piece at the other end but that doesn't seem to be a problem.

 

I'll find out tomorrow if it leaks!

 

---------- Post added at 9:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:36 PM ----------

 

I've been meaning to change my radiator/pipes for about a year now.. :lol:

What's that gold topped sensor/plug thing?

 

It's a much bigger job than I anticipated, made longer by the normal, 'somethings broken' and 'might as well do this whilst I'm at it'.

 

You can strip down the bumper, slam panel, radiator and the cooling parts in a couple of hours but putting it all back takes a lot longer. I've probably invested £600 and at least 30 hours so far.

[joebloggsVR69 0]

Does the rad sensor break if you remove the existing one?

I guess it makes sense just to buy new sensors all round, for peace of mind.

Last thing you'd want is for one of them to fail a few weeks down the line. Suppose that's another £100 I'll have to fork out :)

[OllieVR6 0]

I couldn't get anything off the original rad. It was either broken or welded in with rust.

[5harp3y 0]

Hello mate, just come over for a stalk.

 

C looks great, find a tunnel, give it some stick with the windows down. it'll remind you that if you get rid you'll miss the VR!