corradovr6sc 0 Posted January 5, 2004 Driving along yesterday and the car started misfiring badly, firing on one cylinder and jerking. :( Are these the symtoms of failed coilpack? The failure happened quite suddenly and I suspect the coilpack as it is original (116k) and I have changed many other components which can cause bad running (maf, 02 sensor, plugs and leads, cam position sensor, isv). I have repaired the insulation using epoxy glue but this hasn't made any difference. Could it be a failure of another component? Is there a fault code for the coilpack on vag-com or does it simply report a misfire? Thanks in advance Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 5, 2004 Driving along yesterday and the car started misfiring badly, firing on one cylinder and jerking. :( Are these the symtoms of failed coilpack? Is there a fault code for the coilpack on vag-com or does it simply report a misfire? Sounds very much like the coilpack is suspect no 1, given you've replaced everything else, or perhaps iffy leads. The HT side of the coilpack is not monitored by the ECU unfortunately. Probably because of the lambda probe, which would obviously react to the unburnt fuel and cause the ECU to close the injectors a bit. The resin trick doesn't always work, especially if the cracks are really deep. Only cure is replacement and they were £180 last time I looked. Make sure you get a TEMIC one and not BERU (complete shite). Try swapping the pack over with a known working one, if possible? K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradovr6sc 0 Posted January 5, 2004 Thanks for the reply I've got a spare set of leads which I can swap over but it's unlikely to be the leads/plugs which are causing the problem as they have only covered 2k. I forgot to add that the car has been standing outside for a while in damp conditions which seem to lead to coilpack problems. My coilpack is made by beru. Is beru or temic original equipment or do both firms supply vw? I haven't got access to another coilpack so it looks like I'll have to buy new. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 5, 2004 TEMIC is the most common one but I think VW supply both, but TEMIC was the factory fitted one AFAIK. I think G&S sell the BERU ones for about £100 but it's a risky purchase given the amount of complaints it's received on VW Vortex. Coilpacks will play up when during very damp & cold days, like when you get that very fine misty rain. Takes a good hour to get the engine hot enough to burn all the water out of the cracks. K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Corvr6 0 Posted January 9, 2004 Just done a quick search on GSF,price is £117+vat+del. :( There doesn't seem to be a choice of makes though. I too have a misfire,just changed the leads for magnecor 8mm to resolve it,no joy. The only crack I can see on my coilpack is at one mounting bolt,none around the connectors,have done a spray test in the dark,no sparks. When idling there is an intermittant miss,but not really any noticeable loss of power when gunning it. :? Is it ok to remove one lead at a time to try to isolate a cylinder? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradovr6sc 0 Posted January 14, 2004 I have finally got my car plugged into vag-com and have found: 00553 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 29-10 short to ground Is this a total failure of the maf or are there other things to check such as wiring/connections? The strange thing is that the ecu hasn't switched to the TPS/limp mode. The coilpack must be the best bit on the car since this is the second maf which has gone bad along with all the usual suspects; isv, lambda, cps etc. whilst the coilpack is original. Oh well, who sells the cheapest maf? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stormseeker 0 Posted January 15, 2004 I have finally got my car plugged into vag-com and have found: 00553 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 29-10 short to ground I'm pretty sure I saw this fault last week when I was "testing" my MAF (disconnecting/re-connecting it with the engine running) - it may just be a dodgy connection... I'd get the wiring thoroughly checked before forking out for another MAF Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 15, 2004 I had the same error with one of my new MAFs. It didn't seem to affect the engine enormously but the idle and low rpm response were awful. I checked end-to-end connectivity of my MAF loom, found it to be fine, cleared the codes and checked the next day. The error had come back. Bosch replaced the MAF again and I've not had that error since.....So even buying a brand new one comes with no assurance of curing the problem. Best bet is to keep trying them until you find one that works properly. I know we shouldn't have to but other than going full DTA managment (that does away with the MAF altogether), there is no other way. I got my MAFs from a local Bosch specialist for £150 exchange or £200 new. Dealer price is nearer £300 IIRC. The exchange MAFs are apparently new innards inside a used plastic housing, but both the exchange MAFs I've had came with new housings too, so don't bother with a new one. K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Corvr6 0 Posted January 15, 2004 Another test for the MAF sensor is to see if the filament is actually working at all. You can do this by lifting the top of the air filter cover and looking down the intake tube. It requires 2 people,someone to switch off the ignition and someone to look down the pipe. Run the car for a minute or 2,then switch off,the filament in the MAF Sensor should glow orange for a fraction of a second,to burn off crap etc. This is not a conclusive test as the filament may still light up and be faulty in some other way. 8) I thought I was having MAF problems but apparently not.... :? http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6611 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradovr6sc 0 Posted January 15, 2004 Made a few enquiries on maf prices: VW dealer: £333.11 + vat (new) Eurocarparts: £199.8 (£60 surcharge on old maf) (re-manufactured) Bosch agent in Manchester: £251+vat (new) £175+vat (re-manufactured) GSFcarparts: couldn't get one Local Bosch Agent: £213.44 + vat (new) There aren't any in the country so it's at least a week waiting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 15, 2004 £331 is scandalous. I'd get the £175 one personally. K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan_Storm 0 Posted January 15, 2004 I've also been looking around at MAF prices for VW part# 021 906 462 / Bosch part# 0 280 217 504, here's what I found: VW dealer: £333 (I thought this was inc. VAT but I can't be sure as I left the info at work) Eurocarparts: £235 +VAT / £276 inc.VAT GSFCarParts: Here is their email: We can import from Germany a genuine air flow sensor for £245 + vat or a Bosch version for £185 + vat. It would take 2-3 working days to arrive and we would require full payment in advance. The part would be non returnable except in the instance of warranty. Which works out at: Genuine: £288 inc.VAT Bosch: 217 in.VAT Friend of a friend who sells Bosch parts: £213 inc.VAT + Blitz He also said that there were none of these parts in the country, this added an extra £25 for what Bosch call a 'Blitz' delivery! Also found this site in the US. Part number 021906462 is $360.84 (£198) Part number 021906462A is $260.69 (£143) I don't know what the difference is with the 'A' in the part number.....apart from 50 quid :) I couldn't find any mention of International delivery on the site. The order form is for US only. I've recently ordered a Vag-com, so i'm waiting to get that first. If i'm lucky it may confirm that my MAF is dead (I know its not a conclusive test but i wanted a Vag-com anyway cuz i'm into gadgets :D) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted January 15, 2004 A makes all the difference! I made that mistake and it was an early film type. I think the MAF and 02 sensors are only for economy/emissions and improved engine response at lower revs, I'm sure someone told me the ECU ignores both at WOT, hence they still go like stink past 4000rpm with a naffed MAF. The guy at the Subaru garage said the same thing about Impreza engines on Saturday. Apparently you can get a DTA standalone that deletes the MAF altogether, but you can buy 3 or 4 MAFs for the same prices as a DTA setup! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites