MOT results

[Madjackal 0]

Stealers want £300.00 to adjust the headlight, tighten the handbrake cable and fit a new wheel bearing. Well i think im gonna get the bearing from GSF and do it myself so any pointers?

[mic_VR 3]

Well all those things are reasonably straight forward to fix. Rear bearing races need to be pressed in so that can be a very tricky job.

 

One thing I would say is buy your bearings from VW, GSF ones are cr@p and you'll be doing the same job next year.

[davidwort 0]

I did a little rear brakes/bearings how-to in my gallery thread:

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19344&start=15

 

I think Boostmonkey has done recently too

 

If it's a front bearing, simply remove the hub complete, buy a bearing and pay 10-20 quid for a garage to press the new bearing on for you, you'd need alignment done afterwards though.

[dr_mat 0]

And if it's a rear wheel bearing it can be adjusted...

[Madjackal 0]

Well all those things are reasonably straight forward to fix. Rear bearing races need to be pressed in so that can be a very tricky job.

 

One thing I would say is buy your bearings from VW, GSF ones are cr@p and you'll be doing the same job next year.

 

VAG dont have any in and gotta save cash at the mo, plus the way things are going I probably wont have the car next year but thanks anyway!

[davidwort 0]

only cost me 21 quid for a VAG front bearing

[Madjackal 0]

Oh and the MOT test says NS head lamp aim too far to the right? Do they adjust left and right I thought it was only up and down??

 

How about tightening the hanbrake cable should I attempt this?

[Madjackal 0]

Sorry yeah it is the rear bearing!

[davidwort 0]

Oh and the MOT test says NS head lamp aim too far to the right? Do they adjust left and right I thought it was only up and down??

 

How about tightening the hanbrake cable should I attempt this?

 

yep, two adjusters on headlights, one does left/right

handbrake cable is usually a sign the rear caliper(s) have a partially sized handbrake release mechanism :(

[dr_mat 0]

Adjusting the handbrake cable is a pain, you have to take the surrounds off. The adjusters are at the rear of the handle itself.

You can guarantee you'll never get it back on *quite* the same way it came off..

And the rear calipers may be fine .. I needed to adjust my cables after the calipers were replaced. Obviously the new ones had the handbrake operation lever at a slightly different angle.

[Madjackal 0]

So how important is it to change the bearing surround (race?) only it really aint comin out. plus there are two a lrage inner one and a small outer one both out?

[davidwort 0]

So how important is it to change the bearing surround (race?) only it really aint comin out. plus there are two a lrage inner one and a small outer one both out?

if you tap it in each of the 3 gaps in turn where you can get onto the back of the race (with a punch) they always drift out bit by bit, the race often pits as badly as the bearing rollers so you can't really leave them in.

[Madjackal 0]

ok so the bearing is in finally (race included), addtionally ive left my isv soaking in carb cleaner for most of the day but unfortunatley the jubilee clips i bought are slightly too small so my question is, will i make it 15 mins drive to b and q without the larger hose secured?

 

Also I have removed all the handbrake surrounds there are to hex bolts on each of the hb cables is the outer one of these a locking nut and does it undo in the normal direction?

[Meth 0]

The first nut you can get to is the locking nut, the one behind that is your adjustment.

 

Make sure you adjust them both evenly.

 

I had the same fail on my MOT a month ago, i ended up replacing the callipers and cables to get it through. Simply adjusting it at the handbrake end did nothing. If you can, get someone to work the handbrake up and down whilst you are underneath it, watch the handle that the handbrake cable connects to on each calliper, these should move in and out quite far with ease.

 

Although when I did mine, I ended up fitting;

 

Recon rear callipers

New handbrake cables

New rear pads

New rear discs

New rear wheel bearings

 

:lol: All easy enough to do, handbrake cables are a peice of p*ss if you find you need to replace them!

[Madjackal 0]

hmm ok, well they now say that apparently the whole n/s cable needs replacing, (soon as i told them id done the bearing and taken the handbrake surround off to save some money, wankers!) i can do all that stuff myself although never done a handbrake cable before, very tempted to have a go myself this weekend now tho and save even more cash!!

[Madjackal 0]

although i would have to bleed the brakes if replacing the calipers tho right??

[davidwort 0]

although i would have to bleed the brakes if replacing the calipers tho right??

brake hose clamps on the rear hoses and swap them over or a very messy quick swap as fluid dribbles out, just need to bleed a little through the rear then, not a complete fluid change.

[Madjackal 0]

ahhh good thinking! I may try this if i can scrape enough money together for the calipers.

 

Incidentally I bought an 8mm hex socket from halfords for the caliper removal and when I applied pressure to it with my socket wrench (also from halfords) not my breaker bar! the hex shaft snapped/shattered into 3 pieces, unfortunately (as my head was inside the wheel arch) this resulted in me punching myself very hard in the face with the wrench in my hand. :lol:

 

Just an fyi if buying sockets from halfords!

[Meth 0]

Go for Halfords Pro if buying from there - they're guaranteed.

 

1) Handbrake cable - Peice of p*ss. You will laugh at yourself for even thinking about worrying about it ;) disconnect it at the lever first and then just work your way back, take note of the clips that keep it secure to the chassis. Taking it off the lever end first allows you to get it off the calliper easily.

 

2) Replacing the callipers - get some hose clamps and clamp it before removing the hose from the calliper. That should mean very minimal bleeding is required when the new callipers are on. Then connect the new cable up to the ratchet mechanism, and work your way back up through to the front of the car (Poke the front of the cable through the car before attatching it to the calliper though - makes it easier in the long run.

 

3) Pump the brake a few times first, get the rear callipers working first, then adjust the handbrake up to suit. But the pistons need to be pumped out first to make it nice and easy / quick.

 

Whole job (callipers and cables) should take about 30mins!