Getting killer Midbass from Audioscape pods!

[RichG60 0]

I've almost completed my install now and there is one thing left I need to improve, the mid bass from the Audioscape enclosures is pretty poor.

 

This is what I've done to date, doors are completely sound proofed (2 layers on inner skin, 1 layer on the outer skin that faces the door card back) and holes sealed.

 

The components I'm running are Focal K2P. I'm running these off there crossovers and these are being powered by a bridged JL 600/4 giving them 2 x 300wrms so they have plenty of power on tap.

 

I've checked the phase of the speakers so they are all relative. No EQ has been applied at the moment.

 

I have constructed an mdf baffle which bolts to the door and then you screw through the back of the audioscape pods to it which makes the pods solid.

 

Can anybody tell me if they have managed to improve the mounting of the pods or have run these components with good results or any components for that matter?

 

Thanks

 

Rich

[mrbeige 0]

Have you tried running one mid out of phase? I did that when I had some 6x9's in the doors of my mk1.....MASSIVE midbass

 

Is mid open at the back through into the door, or have you sealed the door completely?

[RichG60 0]

Thanks for the reply, yes the pods are vented in to the doors through the standard holes in the door. Do you think I could be getting some cancellation issues running both mids in positive phase?

[mrbeige 0]

It's definitely a possiblity. It's work a go anyway. I had a mate who had two 8 in subs, one in each rear quarter of his mk1 (awesome idea) but he had more bass with one than two!!

 

Make sure you've got a good seal between the door, pod and door card as well.

[Neil VR6 0]

Personally, I think most of the problem with this is because the speakers aren’t actually connected to the door, they’re connected to the door card albeit via the Audioscape pods. I had a better sound using the same kit set up in my 200SX which uses uber tough resin mounts which screw directly onto the door – much more solid.

[mrbeige 0]

Personally, I think most of the problem with this is because the speakers aren’t actually connected to the door, they’re connected to the door card albeit via the Audioscape pods. I had a better sound using the same kit set up in my 200SX which uses uber tough resin mounts which screw directly onto the door – much more solid.

I do have to agree there. It's extremely difficult to get a good seal between speaker, pod, card and door

[junkie 0]

my set up was exactly the same and it never did killer mid bass and i was running the same power. Just putting components ran off the head unit it the tt they have so much more mid bass not killer but alot more.

[RichG60 0]

I managed to improve things greatly by playing with the phase, I believe the mids need more time to run in before they get to their full potential.

 

Things sound great with the engine off but as soon as its turned on all low frequencies are clouded by the ambient noise.

[colinstubbs 0]

I'm looking into making up some clamps to hold the Audioscape pods to the door, clamping the doorcard in the process. It may not make any difference but it's worth a go roughing it up with some steel bar I've got knocking about and a selection of nuts and bolts :)

[mattnorgrove 0]

That is definitely what's needed Colin, I was a little concerned when I fitted mine that the bracket connecting the original doorcard to the door had to be removed in order for the Audioscapes to fit. It seems now that there is simply not enough solidity/rigidity in the bottom right hand corner of the door card to produce a smooth clean sound. A custom bracket would be just the job...

[colinstubbs 0]

With early doors there was never a metal bracket just a plastic screw-in thingie!

 

These are the really rough guesstimated brackets i'm going to try and fit G-clamp stylee using a bolt and two nuts to lock the bolt and thus the pod in position. Obviously need a hole drilling in each first :lol: I'll probably put a couple of layers of heatshrink or self-fusing tape over the end contacting the door, after a couple of layers of paint etc.

 

IMG_6164.JPG[/attachment:3m7pxqpi]

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfIMG_6165.JPG[/attachment:3m7pxqpi]

 

Bit worried about potential water ingress but I have got some water-repellent foam over the membrane opening for the speaker I'll see how it goes :gag: .

 

I need the doorcard off first to fit my bling driver's side opening lever! 8)

[RichG60 0]

What I did was make up an mdf baffle plate which I bolted to the door behind where the Audioscape pods fit. I treated it with resin to water proof it and used some skins moisture gaurd to protect the back of my speakers. Next I glued a close cell foam gasket to the baffle, refitted the door card with the Audioscape pods on. put three long screw through the back of the Audioscape pods in to the baffkes on the door compressing the foam and creating a gasket.

 

Refitted the speakers and they are sealed and vented in to the door and no movement at all, its completely rigid!

[colinstubbs 0]

Liking the sound of that Rich, my potential lazy option doesn't require the card off but then one of them needs to come off anyhow! Might try mine first and if it's shit go with yours!! 8)

[fla 9]

What I did was make up an mdf baffle plate which I bolted to the door behind where the Audioscape pods fit. I treated it with resin to water proof it and used some skins moisture gaurd to protect the back of my speakers. Next I glued a close cell foam gasket to the baffle, refitted the door card with the Audioscape pods on. put three long screw through the back of the Audioscape pods in to the baffkes on the door compressing the foam and creating a gasket.

 

Refitted the speakers and they are sealed and vented in to the door and no movement at all, its completely rigid!

 

 

Any pics of your setup?