My Satin Valver. issues :( water/electrics

[Kempy 0]

Ive had my satin valver for going on three years and im getting in the mood to get it back to condition it deserves. Its never really been how I wanted...I got up to see it every couple of weeks. My mate and I went up today, cleaned the interior and the outside, its only cloth but its in really good nick. Sitting in it today, made me think how much nicer the black interior is :D seems to make it feel more modern some how, I much prefer it to my grey cloth. I also absolutely love the Satin Silver still, I will get it back on the road on enjoy it again...I have bought a KR head for it as one was availiable on here, the garage I had it most recently think it could have a crack in the original head, hopefully once fitted I'll get more inspired to carry on repairing it.. I took some pics to...for your enjoyment...Its nothing special....but Ive not broke it for parts, Ive kept it for the day I got more monies to spend on the beast

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 12, 2011 by Kempy

[davidwort 0]

been a long time since I saw a set of those mk2 alloys :)

great you haven't taken it to bits for parts :salute: there's something special about a silver Corrado.

[nmahi 0]

bring it back to life.........u know i love silver rads...... :clap: :notworthy:

[Kempy 0]

14's ftw

[Kempy 0]

I've started to swap the head. Old 200k+ (apparently cracked) 9a Head off and new refirbed KR on. Well not yet, I went in without the right tools :cuckoo: I dont have the multihead sockets to get out the cheese head bolts. I also need to get replacements for all the rounded off allen heads. They really do my head in :mad2: :mad2: There is also one nut left on the exhaust manifold, how do you get that lower, middle one out? seems impossible, without many knuckles.

 

I'm thinking of tarting up the rocker cover and the manifolds, paint or polish??

 

Also is a 4 branch worth fitting?

 

Satin 4 Life

 

Bought some wheels and tyres off a local forum for £80, not bad I thought.

[Toad 0]

Do it from underneath. remove the heat sheild from the driveshaft, and you can just get on to it.

 

Shit design. :(

[Kempy 0]

whats the name of the socket I need to get the head bolts out? so that I can buy one :D

[Toad 0]

Just a splined socket. Can't remember the size, but you can buy a rail of them from Halfords for sensible money, and that will include the one to undo driveshafts.

 

If I remember I'll try to find out which is the right size tomorrow when I go to finish the VR off.

[Wild-Animal 0]

Are you not suppost to take the head bolts of in a specific order?

[Kempy 0]

yea, Its in my haynes :wink:

[Kempy 0]

99% of the head removal is done, Ive removed headbolts, it wants to come but................I still cant get those 2 manifold bolts out, one appears rounded a bit to :censored: I have been underneath and remove all the obstructions like the headshield, I got a really good veiw of the little feckers. still I cant remove them. Ive tried to undo the exhaust further down by the CAT that might work but having trouble with those bolts to :brickwall:

 

Any suggestions welcomen :D

[aide 0]

exhaust bolts are notoriously difficult to get off, have you enough thread to double nut and unwind the bolt as opposed to unscrewing the nut?

 

i've had to attack rounded off nuts/ bolts with a grinder stone on a dremel before :D

 

have you soaked it in wd40 or similar?

[Dec 1]

Had the same problem with the least accessible of those manifold bolts when I was doing a head gasket change on one of the old valvers. Nut wouldn't budge no matter what I did!

 

I ended up contorting my arm around the subframe + downpipe with a dremel my hand. I used a tiny drill bit in the dremel to put a small pilot hole in the side of the seized nut. Then used a standard drill + 8mm bit to annihilate the rest of the nut using the pilot hole as a guide. Putting the small pilot hole in the nut means you can use the full sized drill single handed to destroy the rest of the nut (not enough space back there to fit two arms + a drill :brickwall: )

[Kempy 0]

What do you mean double bolt? I may end up using a dremel :mad2:

 

 

 

could a mod move this to Projects please

[tyler 0]

without sounding dumb but why not just remove the down pipe and lift the head off with the manifold?

[Kempy 0]

I started to do that....but time ran out, I think its the way to go, only 3 easy bolts

[aide 0]

the exhaust studs unscrew, so if you tighten two nuts very tight on the same thread, you can try and unscrew the stud instead of the nut - this is only for the worn nut, and its a long shot

[Kempy 0]

what bits can I make shinny whilst im working on my motor?

[tyler 0]

inlet manifold and rocker cover and the valve sat seidethe inlet. basically anything alloy is simple if you want to do the normal parts your be better getting them plated

[aide 0]

what bits can I make shinny whilst im working on my motor?

 

probably your wallet :grin:

 

 

 

 

 

both bits of inlet manifold, cam cover, brush the head, samco's should give you a nicer bay for starters.

[Kempy 0]

Im tempted to do a lot now all the engine is apart. As its a valver im not to worried about power, I want a tidy bay. Is there anything I can do with the fuel lines or the leads?

[tyler 0]

i got a cover for my leads ill get a pic up as for the lines there braided so just clean them :)

[Kempy 0]

mine arent braided

[tyler 0]

neither are mine lol just checked reckon you could cut silicon hose longways and fit that other :D

 

heres a few pics off mine not finished lol but looks better than standard in my opinion

 

[aide 0]

you can get a type of pull on silver braid for the fuel lines, but they can look a bit rubbish if not done well, obviously jazzy red/ blue plug leads can be bought too

 

you can clean the metal fuel lines up with a small softish wire brush, then progressively sand them with wet and dry and you'll get a shiny finish which you can then use some halfords laquer on - won't take more than a couple of hours, makes them shiny and stops them going rusty