My Satin Valver. issues :( water/electrics

[Kempy 0]

When I put the head on, is there anything I can do to flush the bottom cause I looks a bit manky and dirty

[aide 0]

if you mean outside of block, get some 'gunk' degreaser from halfords, scrubbing brush and soapy water - brings grime off a treat

 

to avoid complications try and avoid electrical connectors

[Kempy 0]

I was worried about the inside of the block

[aide 0]

if it's in the bay then all you can really do is keep flushing it through with water

 

alternative is to remove blocl and get it tanked at an engine shop

[Kempy 0]

just done a little photoshop. I was looking for you guys to suggest/ photoshop some rims onto my project

 

 

got a full size pic attached to

[Kempy 0]

any photoshoppers out there :wave:

[Kempy 0]

this looks to be a cause maybe for poor timing performance??

 

the keyway looks broken/damaged on the timing wheel, Ive got the head off but I cant tell if anythings damaged

[dirtytorque 0]

yes it is broken.

I think i have a sprocket somewhere..

[Kempy 0]

so woodruff key is built into the pulley? Cause on Etka the woodruff is loose?

[aide 0]

only the cam gears have woodruff keys, the belt pulley should have a notch on the inner side

[Kempy 0]

Ive swapped over the chain sprockets from the 9a cams to the KRs. Then removed the pulley and noticed it moved freely on the cam :nono: . Could the bad timing caused this or just old age :lol:

[aide 0]

old age caused it to shear, and yeh bad timing cos of it :D

[Kempy 0]

would it cause overheating/ over pressurising?

[aide 0]

will cause flat out poor running & low performance, as incorrect intake, compression and exhaust valve timing in relation to piston cycle - overheating not sure, normally that's more a fuel issue

[Kempy 0]

it was definately flat before I took it off and really poor performance. I noticed one fuel line from the metering head was really twisted and had to be not giving the same amount fuel as the others? what do you think. cheers again aide, nobody else seems to interested unless its got a supercharger

[aide 0]

hey no bother, that's what the forum is all about :D

 

lack of power is more likely to be timing, the lines would have to be seriously twisted to create a pressure drop which would prevent the injector spraying, but ifthey were then yeah - you'd be a cylinder down, or running lean which burns hotter

[Kempy 0]

all of the above I think is what was wrong with the engine :lol: the one line look very twisted, dont know why either, it was very lean. well hopefully when it all goes back together these issues will be sorted.

 

what do you think i'd be able to do, to get a new line for the 1st injector?

[aide 0]

yeh if you think its tht bad... if you need i will have a set of 9a lines for sale now that i'm not building the valver engine anymore :(

[Kempy 0]

probably, need the 1st line. Im gonna get a price for a that from dealers or tps. if you dont want much for the set then i'll have yours, swompy offered me a set also. :shrug:

[aide 0]

sure let me know, would only be looking a tenner plus a couple of quid postage

 

their clean and were sanded shiny, can get piccy's tomorrow if your interested

[Kempy 0]

yes please pics would be good

[Brooksie 0]

good to see ur making progress their kempy m8, not long before i start mine hehe

[aide 0]

piccy's of injector lines, 3rd nut is solid, but could simply screw injector outside of manifold

[Kempy 0]

Righty oh... earlier I torqued up the head, and then tried to fit the cams etc. I found that when I matched up the timing marks on the chain sprockets it made the toothed pully timing marks way off 12 o'clock is this right? Do I make the pully at 12 oclock when fitting up the belts later?

 

cheers all

[aide 0]

chains sprockets should be ----0 - 0------ level with cylinder head edge, mark on inside of pulley wheel should also be in line with cylinder had ----=--- mark on outside of pulley should be at 12 oclock |

 

.... all at the same time :)