Waxoyl - does it work?

[Bullfinch 0]

I've done a quick search and there's not a great deal on this, hence reason for a new thread.

 

My questions are;

Is much prep work required before using - ie: do you scrape away any surface rust etc?

What products work well - bona fide waxoyl or the Hammerite alternative?

Is it like creosoting a fence - just spray and go or do you need to cover/protect parts of the car?

Finally does it work?

 

Thanks for any advice.

[Andy665 0]

Wayoyl is OK but this is better

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/hydrate80.html

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/dynaxs50.html

[Philmo 0]

I've done a quick search and there's not a great deal on this, hence reason for a new thread.

 

My questions are;

Is much prep work required before using - ie: do you scrape away any surface rust etc?

What products work well - bona fide waxoyl or the Hammerite alternative?

Is it like creosoting a fence - just spray and go or do you need to cover/protect parts of the car?

Finally does it work?

 

Thanks for any advice.

 

I'm no coatings chemist but over the last 35 years of car maintenance I've used 0.75 of a 2 gallon can of it on numerous cars and found it to be a sound, easy to apply treatment to stave off the dreaded rust attack.

It's a suspension of wax in some grade of petroleum which, after application, evaporates the petrol fraction to leave an oxygen and water-resistant waxy coat which to some degree is self healing.

I'm not familiar with an equivalent Hammerite product, but Waxoyl has been around for a good while and it wouldn't be surprising if any patent had expired!

It would be beneficial to clean up the area concerned as much as poss to achieve as intimate a coating as poss, but in appropriate circumstances it might be lashed onto surfaces without prep just as a temporary defence against rust.

The original spray gun supplied with my Waxoyl gave up the ghost years ago, so i use re-cycled "daily shower" spray bottles and find in this weather that a better coverage is achieved by using a hot water bath to keep the Waxoyl flowing! see pic:Image0033.jpg[/attachment:3dxob7de]

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Have a look on here, the dinitrol products are highly regarded - http://www.rust.co.uk/

 

Or VAG do a nice 'Preservation wax" in a silver can, which is a good Waxoyl alternative and I use it on all the hinges, door seams, tailgate seams (where the metal is folded or terminated and coated with rubberised filler), behind the wings, radiator support panel etc etc. Seems to be good stuff.

 

Black Waxoyl is OK for the underneath, providing you leave the lid off the tin permanently and let the solvents evaporate as Philmo says. Otherwise it's just too thin and gets washed off. When it's a thick gloopy tar like consistency, apply it with a brush and then it will stay on and form a tough barrier. I do that every summer/Autumn before the winter sets in.

 

Try not to use that around the jacking points as garages won't thank you for it :D

[muppetlab 0]

I bought a rusty old camper few years ago and after thirty years of rot the underside of the chassis was in perfect condition under the wax coating. Not sure what it was but it looks like waxoyl. Considering the state of the rest of the bus i was convinced it works and have treated every vehicle i owned since. Injected into sills, doors under the floor pans basically every where. This year i used a waxoyl underseal type goo for under the arches on the rado as it sets a bit harder and so far so good. Only thing to watch is that i think waxoyl is not good on rubber. So watch overspray onto tyres, cv boots, brake pipes etc. Definitely worth the effort and the mess though. My tip is borrow a compressor with a shultz gun. its so much easier and much less messy than brushes or crappy pump up cans.

[Supercharged 2]

Waxoyl is rubbish - like Hammerite (who make it I think)

 

Far better products out there - the VW cavity wax is the best I've used but the 3M stuff that body shop / paint supply places do is very similar.

[davidwort 0]

My latest method is grinding out the rust, warming the panel, acid etch priming the bare metal and then paining with VW rubberised underbody sealant which can then be painted over, finally some VAG cavity wax sprayed over the top, we'll see how that goes.

Been out very little in the C in the wet over this winter and kept it in the garage most of the time, I'd imagine that should help a lot.

[muppetlab 0]

Years ago we used to treat the chassis of land rovers with used engine oil and grease. Never rusted :lol:

Not so good for the environment or your skin though.

[Pat_McCrotch 0]

Waxoyl is rubbish - like Hammerite (who make it I think)

 

Disagree with you there Steve. Kev showed me the benefits of Hammerite waxoil before this shocking weather started and I'm so glad my Corrado has been protected by it all winter. Cavity Wax and Waxoil essentially do the same thing (i.e. stop rust) but there applications are much different.

 

It goes without saying that any broken underseal should be rust proofed underneath and re-applied. But the Wax Oil adds another additional barrier, made my C look mint underneath and also a little quieter which was nice :grin: It's also strangely erotic applying it :shocked:

 

I've also used the VAG Preservation Wax cans which Kev mentioned that are great at getting into those little nooks and crannys like the holes in the chassis.

[davidwort 0]

I'm not a fan of waxoil either,

there's one big problem with it, you can't easily see where corrosion reoccurs, and if you have already put underbody sealant over repaired areas what's the point in spraying waxoil over the top of it? VW don't. :shrug:

It also collects grit and crap as it's not smooth.

I've used a can of the aerosol spray version and it made me feel a bit better squirting it over rust patches under the car one summer , but it made little difference as I hadn't removed any damaged underseal and treated rust underneath, it's not even very good at filling in holes as it doesn't build very well.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

yea i dont like waxoil its "old school" and there is better products out there which are also easier to use,i use Rusco products and use plenty of Rusco cavity wax,our bodyshop uses them for insurance improved repaires so its good stuff,runs inside and along seams you cant get to and you get a long hose supplied to do all them akward places,drys hard and does not run like waxoil. love the stuff!

[Toad 0]

I've used a bit on my VR, I heated it up with a hot water bath until it was really runny, then used a shultz gun to put 2 thin coats on. I also injected as much as I could into the subframes, rad support chassis legs, and inner wings. Where it was so runny it's made it's way into small crevices and any little gaps. Admittedly some will run out/fall off, but in a lot of these places there was no protection at all, and a nice thin layer should make a difference. The inside of the rad support panel is a good example. I've got a panel that someone had shotblasted and powder coated in the past. It's now mostly a layer of powdercoat over rust as it's rotted from the inside out.

[Yandards 0]

My latest method is grinding out the rust, warming the panel, acid etch priming the bare metal and then paining with VW rubberised underbody sealant which can then be painted over, finally some VAG cavity wax sprayed over the top, we'll see how that goes.

Been out very little in the C in the wet over this winter and kept it in the garage most of the time, I'd imagine that should help a lot.

 

Best way, the old corrosion needs removing entirely or it just comes back, grind it out, treat the bare metal with a paintable corrsion inhibitor, acid etch or Zinga primer and then go on up from there.

 

As for waxoil etc, it does work as it also contains a corrosion inhibitor/killer and this prevents furthur spread. Well worth using on the underbody of the car and areas like the subframe as an added layer of protection.

 

It is also worth refreshing the areas behind the panels as no doubt the original stuff is gone now, rear quarters and the boot cavities are the worst spots.

 

Best way to use waxoil is to mix it 50/50 with white spirit to thin it out and then stick it in a bucket of hot water prior to use to get it to flow properly.