Rotrex Charged Storm: She's Gone!

[big ben 10]

thought they only came in 6/7/8/9 widths?

 

i love D90's, i had a polished set with H&R adaptors before i got the VRT, then the brakes became an issue... i would be at least trying them as you could easily sell them on here for what you paid for them or even more :D

[Rams 0]

I might buy them, like you say, can always sell them on.

 

Re read his text and it definately says 7.5s on the front. As im now pulling the arches he said I can get different thickness to suit the arch. He recently painted them and like all his stuff, its always done to an excellent standard.

 

I do need new wheels, really wanted a set of bbs splits, but maybe this way is a good way to change the bbs solitudes, as im board with them now and use the D90's till I can afford the BBS Splits I always wanted.

 

Now need to buy good adaptors and read up about them. As long as they are entirley safe?

[Rams 0]

You were correct mate, the rears are 8 and the fronts are 7. They also come with conti contact sports rather than Toyos. He said they are still quite a rare wheel as most dont have the staggered offsets like the 6 and 7's sizes.

 

Well spotted!

[Rams 0]

Have now sourced all the OBD2 parts, they are gradually all turning up in the post. Ive been a bit trigger happy with my paypal account. Bought front and rear Eibach anti roll bars, new fitting kit from Venom. Have decided to go for some new GAZ coilovers fully adjustable ride and damper.

 

I have been doing some of the prep work on the body work but Ive got tired of the slow progress and have booked the car into a friend of mine to rub the whole car down and get it paint ready, so it will all be smooth, flat and primed. Then it will go in for top coat . Im just making sure that the job is done to a quality standard and feel if I attempt it and it looks crap, I would have spent a chunck of cash for nothing. He is a very fussy guy and feel totally confident about his ability. My welder has been great at welding but the slop work has taken too long and he agrees, its not his strong point. But all bits that have been shaved are almost smooth, a bit of work will need to go into adjusting the drivers door so the gaps are all equal.

 

The front arches are now rolled, the machine was a bit too severe but as I am getting rid of the lip line to make it one nice curved arch, any defect theres will be gone. The rears have been started, the sealant has been ground out so far and hopefully tomorrow the inner arch can be separated and the hammer will begin. Its the look I really like and gives it that extra show standard I always wanted. Its really swallowing up money like no tomorrow but it will be a matter of right first time and many years of nice paintwork. The guy thats going to rub it all down in a nice workshop is returning from holiday at the beginning of november, Id say he will rub it down and prime it over 3 or 4 weeks?? I dont want to leave it too long due to the cold weather, but should just be in time. He basically said he will re do all the filler work to make it perfect, incase any water has absorbed into the filler whilst its been outside, but it was alwys etched primered. Eitherway, I like the fact he mentioned it.

 

The engine will have all the timing parts changed just before Peter the painter will begin the rub down. The Eibach arbs and suspension can also be fitted So no risk of it being scratched in my mechanic workshop. Then when shes painted, it should be a total transformation. I will go from being grumpy to very happy and can at least enjoy all this hard earned cash.

 

Will be replacing the door frame rubbers to get that extra push when the door solenoid is popped, at the moment, I need to sometimes hold the button wich release the latch but doesnt give enough push to get your hand in to open the door. That should solve the issue, if not, helper springs / valve will need to be fitted.

 

Alpine headunit fitted, looks great.

Door card mounted Clifford LED alarm indicators, replaced the red dash one for blue but think its too much and very bright. With all 3 flashing ultra bright viper style leds. I have rilled the redundant door pins and mounted them in there so it can be removed or made switchable, or I will just make them all red which probably looks more subtle.

 

I have to get out my polishing gear and start doing the new inlet manifold, heres a before pic to compare to the finished result. Once all the other bits arrive, I will get a nice picture of what people need if going OBD2.

[Rams 0]

New Eibach Anti Roll Bar, front and rear, just waiting for the rear ARB to arrive. I guess the rear is straight forward to install

[Rams 0]

Rear Eibach anti roll bar and bulb holders from the America

[Rams 0]

The rear arch has been pulled, its stage one of the process but it looks really good and will only need a light skim of filler. Front arches are rolled by the rolling machine. If I had done it again, I would have put some slits in the sides of the front arches to allow the movement, but as im pulling the lip out, any defects will be lost. Under the arch you have 1 small screw holding that corner on, I will have a few spot welds in place hidden behind it to keep it ultra secure.

 

I know the pictures are in the rain but im board so see what you think.

 

The rear arch has been cut to seperate the inner and outer arch, lip pulled back inside, lip on outside has been hammered and dollyed, inner lip foded back over and will be seam welded with more welds that it comes out of the factory and sealed properly. Its taking shap finally.

 

Im not happy about a few bits, but they are being resolved. Where the new arch meets the lower part of the door, the gaps are different to the top and bottom. What happened was my welder liped the new panel over the exsiting lip that returns into the door as he said he didnt want to cut too much off initially. So whats happened is the extra metal that lips over steps out slightly reducing the gap. Its easily sorted by cutting that out again and behind that will be the exsisting lip and that can be welded to that, ground off, sanded and a skim of filler. It will then be in the exact position.

 

Car now officially booked in for all paint prep to begin at the beginning of November. Between then I have to do the other rear arch and then smooth the rest to my ability then the pro can take over. Since the rear arch was hammered etc, nothing happened to the new arch which im please about so it must be solid.

 

Since looking throught the, '' show us your best pic'' thread, I now want my aerial removed and smoothed. Can fit those internal aerials which I hear give a better reception?

 

Also, removing the clifford leds from the door pins, they are too bright, my plan is to mount 2 of them into the front arch vent so at night, the vent pulses. It will be more subtle as the inside is black. It should look cool. I am also wondering if I should recess the slc bumper lights in a bit more... They stick out too much imo. The outer edge will be coloured coded, but it sort of goes against the smooth look. Its different and if they bug me, I'll get a new bumber. But will give them a shot.

 

I might end up smoothing the exhaust recess to matched the shaved tow eye. ????

[Rams 0]

Drivers side front and rear arch pulled, rolled and welded.... Looks great, really happy with them. Just the passenger side to do but the front is already rolled. Bee sting aerial is now shaved.... and etch primed.... Car looks uch better without the aerial.

 

Lots of new screws and bolts today, all new speed clips, headlight and mirror screws etc etc, spent about £50 just on screws!!! I think im going mad....

 

Picked up the new window rubbers, 40 odd pounds each side.

 

The car is going in tomorrow for the new Eibach front and rear arb's, around mid day, so looking forward to that.

 

It was just great to drive the car today, lovely sunny day, sunroof open and its less blowy with the deflector ive since fitted.

 

My dog is protecting the new parts that I collected today, see pics

 

More updates tomorrow on the ARB'S. Im also having the new vw front engine mount fitted tomorrow, might do th egearbox one whilst im there as I get a bit of vibration through the gear stick.

[Rams 0]

Eibach anti roll bars are fitted.... Only drove back from his workshop in traffic but the car handles differently. More solid and a sharper turn it. I really need to get he suspension done to feel the full benefits.

[Fulltimejunglist 0]

asuming you took the rooflining out to remove that?

 

Hate them, might bodge tape over mine....

 

Havnt got a welder so, best i can do atm...

 

aha...

 

Good work mate.

 

Nice dog.

[Rams 0]

I just dropped the headliner down at the rear, just removed the plasic part along the top, the clips that hold it in are quite cool as they just slide in and out incase you break them. When I removed mine, I heard a snap and though I had broken the clips, but they just slot back in. I used some wood sheets and made a slope / ramp so any welds just rolled down the wood and out the back of the car. It took my welder all of about 45 mins to remove the aerial, cut a small piece of metal that slotted into the square hole, then welded a screw to that to get purchase on it and welded it up. Then nibbed it all flat with a slight recess for the filler, but only very slight.

 

I wouldnt tape it though bud, you don't want moisture getting in.... I know you can use a sealant but I would leave it on or come over to my place and I will get my welder to do it for you!

 

The shaved aerial was one of those things that made me instantly prefer the look, bit like when I removed the side bump strips. An instant lift imo.

 

I am taking the headliner out so it can be re trimmed in black something.... especially as it has more sag than Pat Butcher :lol:

[Rams 0]

Finally ordered some coilovers from Corby Motor Sport... A few guys said they were the cheapest but stated the ebay price of £510 delivered as when I called them direct they said £540. They take a few weeks to arrive but feel £510 for these quality kits are a fair price. By by 4 x 4!! Ive asked them to ship as soon as possible and when they arrive they will be fitted staright away. It should be the last thing I do before the body shop take it over for prepping. I have 3 weeks to get the timing chains etc complete but im holding back as we are taking the engine out to do the chains etc and it will be easier to do the obd2 conversion. Just need the main loom!! If anyone has one, please contact me, im likely to bite your arm off :lol:

[big ben 10]

did you not get the D90's?

 

and what coilovers you buy, KW V1's?

[Rams 0]

I did get the D90'S and ordered the GAZ coilover kit.... fully adjustable with height and dampner adjustment, just not the rebound dampners as they are nearly a grand.

 

Need adaptors now when I know how much I can get away with now that the arches are rolled and pulled..... I wasn't sure about them at first but once I offered one of them upto the car, I could tell it was going to look good value for money if that makes sense. The gun metal colour makes me like them even more than a standard finish. The tyre size of 195 45 16 also seems to work well with the online calculators.

[Rams 0]

Strip weldeing and grinding back welds before bond seal.... When you run your hand up underneath the arch it feels nice and smooth

[Rams 0]

The rado goes in tomorrow for new timing chains, engine mounts, tappets, oil change and filter, new spark plugs, new main engine seal, new gear box oil and coolant. So a fairly extensive overhall and the following weekend, she goes in for prep! Finally feels like im getting somehwere. The h and R adaptors have turned up, 40 mm on the rear and the fronts are on ther way which are 35mm.

 

The Gaz coilovers should also arrive next week and they can be fitted just before the prep work. Ive also started polishing the outer rim on the D90's and i have to find some time to finish these. I will polish them up and get the painter to paint the middle in mystic Blue.

 

The stainess door poppers are now in and the door comes out perfectably. It also makes a nicer sound when closing the door shit.

 

The glass is coming out and just hoping it doesnt break. Theres light surface rust where I removed the rubber and want to make sure everything is cleanned off and will result in a nice finish.

 

I think after the engine goes back in, I won't post any more pics till its preped and finished. Boy I cant wait. Its been far to long driving my old Transit van everywhere and feeling like a pikey!

[Rams 0]

So the engine came out tonight, I did 75 percent of it which has made me happy. I really enjoyed doing it. Now going a bit further and powder coating teh sub frame and cross member and wil do as much as I can to tidy the engine bay and hopefully paint the block?

 

Ive taken a few pics of the process, the new INA tappets arrived. Ordered them from euro car parts, although the website only had febi bilstein and another make at 8.00 something plus vat each one. After reading some posts, it said that the INA were factory VW ones and the best ones to use. I checked the packaging today and to my delight, they were INA and not the febi ones. TPS wanted £21 each tappet and Euro came in at 8.00 plus vat each one, so a massive saving there.

[Rams 0]

Cross member, subframe, wishbones, fuel tank straps, engine mount bracket etc stripped, wishbone bushes removed, ordered Polly bushes from Venom for them, my mechanic picked up that the old wishbone bushes arrows were not inline with the rubber/arrows. so I know the the new ones will be fitted correctly. New oli and filter ready. The water pump pully is being blasted and coated.

 

Gearbox off tonight and clutch looks in excellent condition, practictally new infact, will get a pic tomorrow. New sump, gasket, final engine mount so all 3 are now new. Near rad fan support bracket and rubbers, the rh side bracket is no longer avail, so mine will be powdercoated. New water pump, spark plugs and rocker cover gasket. The timing chains and tensioners etc are being done tomorrow, so catching up with the mechanic with the camera and lend a hand. Coilovers set to arrive Friday and can be fitted by the weekend. Will make a start de greasing the engine and cleaning the engine bay, I want to do so much more but have to calm down. Im saving to buy a daily!

 

I think my off side engine mount was missing a centre bolt which may have been my vibration through the car/gear lever under load. The

 

It still looks like a sorry state, had to delay the prepper as the powder coating is going to take a week, possibly a week and a half. So im 3 or 4 days behind. I really am looking forward to seeing her all back together. The front set of H and r adaptors should arrive in 2 weeks, but need to finish the d90's that im polishing. Its just the rim edge, ive started and nearly finished 2/3 but to get them looking nice, I might just get them professionally done? Will see?

 

Some of the items ready for powdercoaters,

[Rams 0]

The top tensioner pad has wear, its worn through to the metal rivit on one side so definately ready tobe replaced. Ive taken some pics tonight and by tomorrow the new parts will be installed.

 

Picked up the parts that were on order, just waiting on the stuff being powder coated, but next week she will be fully serviced, new timing gear and INA tappets. Gaz coilovers arrived and they are just going to have to wait till the car is painted. My new metal rocker cover should arive on Monday, ebay purchase. Will be polished up to match manifold.

 

When my guy was taking the bits apart, there was an oil leak noticed where the 2 bolts that hold the top timing chain cover were not there. This is the top cover. So someone has had it apart before and forgot to put them in! But that explains the oil weap below! Will get some new bolts for this.

[volksworld13 0]

nice work, be good to see this when its finished, p.s did you get the chains and tensioner from vw, and was the top tensioner guide the later modifyed one is it the mk 4 golf top tensioner guide?

[Rams 0]

Hi, all bits are genuine vw and using the mk4 tensioner/ guide, think its just got a different coating which is stronger. My new number plates arive tomorrow :D

 

Found some really decent powdercoaters, local to Poole, they are doing a good job for me and have been quite sensible with the price... Hopefully they will be ready early next week as they managed to slot mine in with a batch they were rolling through so I could put my car back together quicker! Top blokes. They took a real interest in my project and just made me feel really good and satisfied. Theres not many places that look after customers properly!

[Rams 0]

GAZ Coilovers,

 

Plus the pic of the oil leak as who ever removed the timing covers before to check wear maybe forgot to put them back in. Thats the oil sludge just by the end of the head gasket.

[wy906 0]

Are they GAZ Gold?

 

Good work as always btw.

[thegrouch 10]

cracking thread this mate, given me some much needed inspiration to pull my finger out and try and get mine back on the road (took the engine out over a year ago to do pretty much the same as you have and its still sat there :(

how much were the chains and tensioners from vw if you dont mind me asking?

[Rams 0]

I ordered the coilovers via Corby Motorsport on line, priced matched him to his ebay listing but hes since then put the price up slightly. Gaz Gold, with dampening setting with the spring rate they recommend.

 

I purchased all my parts for the timing overhall from TPS, cant quite remember the cost, i may have mentioned that when I took the pics of the parts when they arrived. If your buying tappets, use euro car parts, INA supplied, even though they didnt list them as INA, they were listed as Febi Bilstein. Half the price of TPS.

 

I think most of us get some form of inspiration on this forum, so its welcolmed by the fact I have inspired you. So what have you got planned?