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DEL VR6

Unsure which problem this is, here are the symptoms. PlsHelp

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Not sure if it is misfiring or if it's the cam position sensor or the air mass sensor?

 

Symptoms are:

 

Car sounds very very much like it's misfiring on idle and sounds more like a 4 cylinder ricer, no really it does :( . Also can smell pure fuel from the fumes in this scenario.

 

When you rev it a little harder, it sounds and feels normal.

 

when it is being driven, and you put your foot down hard, there is defo no los of power, no "limp mode" feel to the engine whatsoever. Car feels 100% normal - but only if you are flooring it in the right gears. As you change up at lower speeds, it feels like it wants to konk out...

 

And to follow.... if you are sort of driving as normal and kind of "feathering" the throttle, the engine stars major jerking as though not all the cylinders are firing.

 

Anyone got any ideas what's wrong with the beast? All help as always, most appreciated. Thanks.

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I think there is a small indy VW specialist here is Leicester. I am assuming he will have a VAG-COM in his workshop, by plugging it in, will that tell what the cause of the problem is?

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an easy thing to test the coil pack as its sounds like mine when it went was get a spray bottle with water in it and run the car

mist the water over the coil pack if you see loads of electrical arc's its your coil pack also be very carful as neat fuel in the exhaust will

very quickly kill your cat making it usless at lowering emmisions

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I am experiencing similar problems to this but had previously put it down to having fast cams fitted and the cold weather? mine has been bored out to 3 ltr also whether this is of any signigicance? Once up to temperature it runs fine but before that, lumpy is an understatement and i cant remember it being this bad this time last year.

Was planning on changing the water temperature sensor? then the leads and coilpack (have tried changing the idle control valve but this made little/no diff).....and mine runs much better with the lambda unplugged!?!

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Aye, usually is when the other components are OK and glad to hear it's OK now :D

 

Funny thing is, we always suggest checking the plugs but I get the impression people assume we're hinting at "premature bore wear" and don't want to go there, so assume it's the coilpack or leads instead.

 

I wonder how many coilpacks have been replaced because of shot spark plugs? :D

 

When the plugs are inspected, the first thing to look for is all 6 being the same colour (cardboard coloured ideally) and bone dry. The second thing to check is the electrode gap. They're gapped to 0.7mm as standard, but over time that gap will increase and when you start getting towards 1mm, the spark may not jump the gap any more.

 

Plugs are the only electrical part of the ignition system that physically wear out (dizzy excluded), so it stands to reason to check the cheapest part first ;)

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Aye, usually is when the other components are OK and glad to hear it's OK now :D

Well, the engine is ok. The braking system.... That's another matter!

Funny thing is, we always suggest checking the plugs but I get the impression people assume we're hinting at "premature bore wear" and don't want to go there, so assume it's the coilpack or leads instead.

 

I wonder how many coilpacks have been replaced because of shot spark plugs? :D

Too many i would say at a guess!

When the plugs are inspected, the first thing to look for is all 6 being the same colour (cardboard coloured ideally) and bone dry. The second thing to check is the electrode gap. They're gapped to 0.7mm as standard, but over time that gap will increase and when you start getting towards 1mm, the spark may not jump the gap any more.

Ironically, when i first drove the car over to Lion, they took ONE plug out, gave it a 2 second glancing look and said "yeah looks fine". I should not have taken that as gospel - I now realise that.

Plugs are the only electrical part of the ignition system that physically wear out (dizzy excluded), so it stands to reason to check the cheapest part first ;)

Yep, an expensive and relatively pointless lesson learnt!

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Yeah all 6 need to be checked really, but I appreciate that can be a pain in the rump without the correct tools.

 

Yeah I saw the brakes thing in your other thread. Unfortunately more and more Corrados and MK3s etc are going to start failing on brake lines. The steel lines and ends, clips etc are actually really cheap from VAG! I also have a decent flaring tool and I find it quite theraputive bending and flaring new lines (I need to get out more!), but I haven't yet tackled operation "Do the whole car" yet as I need access to a ramp!

 

Mechanicals and bodywork - If looked after, Rados are tanks and will pass MOTs for many years to come :D

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Mechanicals and bodywork - If looked after, Rados are tanks and will pass MOTs for many years to come :D

The nice thing was that he said he loves the rest of the car and everything else is sweet, it's just the brakelines that are totally shot. Am looking forward to getting it back on the road after a looooong rest on my driveway!

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Mechanicals and bodywork - If looked after, Rados are tanks and will pass MOTs for many years to come :D

The nice thing was that he said he loves the rest of the car and everything else is sweet, it's just the brakelines that are totally shot. Am looking forward to getting it back on the road after a looooong rest on my driveway!

 

Good luck mate. My MOT is in a fortnight and I'm dreading the dreaded brake lines!

 

Longest I've left mine undriven is 2 weeks and it was such a good drive again afterwards. I forgot how smooth and solid it was and the feel in the corners / instantaneous turn-in etc etc. Nothing modern I've driven (VAGs especially) comes close to the way a good Corrado drives. MK5 GTIs feel similar but it's so artificial and not half as mechanically connected feeling, if that makes sense? You've had some really tasty cars during your Rado drought mate! It'll be good for you to get back in the old girl :D

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