VWVW - New home needed for VR. SOLD

[VWVW 1]

Wow, that's a very reasonable price! Can't do any harm to put an extra coat of something on top...

 

Rears are not so good price wise when I enquired about them...They were 160 pound each!!! with exchnage for your old ones. Think I will go the Biggred route for the rears. I know you can go for MK4 calipers... I dont want the extra cost having to get separate brake lines etc as I am going to get some goodrich stainless brake lines kit

Edited March 10, 2011 by VWVW

[Yandards 0]

Interesting on the front calipers, are they still heavy as I am trying to work out what coating they have applied to them - it looks like electro-plated zinc but without the yellow passivate they used to use (gave the calipers a gold colour).

 

As for the front end, I would recommend dip galvanised for the rad support panel over blasting, it's a much better process and will mean you rad support panel will last ages, make sure you tell them you want to paint over the top of it mind.

[VWVW 1]

Interesting on the front calipers, are they still heavy as I am trying to work out what coating they have applied to them - it looks like electro-plated zinc but without the yellow passivate they used to use (gave the calipers a gold colour).

 

As for the front end, I would recommend dip galvanised for the rad support panel over blasting, it's a much better process and will mean you rad support panel will last ages, make sure you tell them you want to paint over the top of it mind.

 

 

I have just weighted one of the caliper and its 5KG. it definately does not have the yellow tint to it all.

 

yeah I have read earlier posts regarding dip galvanising Vs Powder coating and I am swaying towars Galvanising. There is a company that does it near me. I will have a word with them and find out some costings.

[Jim Bowen 1]

i bought new rears from VW and slapped loads of hammerite on them, wish i'd done something decent to them but at the time its what i did.....

[Wild-Animal 0]

callipers look nice! The axle stands are pretty handy, no pins required!

 

I stripped back my callipers then painted them with red heat temp paint, then you can buy a clear coat that is resistant to brake fluid, you do have to oven bake them so the paint cures, just so the brake fluid does not ruin the paint.Also I hung them by a wire through one of the bolt holes that way you can paint booth sides at once !

[James. 7]

As for the front end, I would recommend dip galvanised for the rad support panel over blasting, it's a much better process and will mean you rad support panel will last ages, make sure you tell them you want to paint over the top of it mind.

 

So does the galvanising replace the need for any kind of media blasting ? Even on original crusty units ???

 

Brakes will look mint when put on. Keen to see how you finish them off as it's next on my massseeeeff list of jobs.

[VWVW 1]

So does the galvanising replace the need for any kind of media blasting ? Even on original crusty units ???

 

Brakes will look mint when put on. Keen to see how you finish them off as it's next on my massseeeeff list of jobs.

 

 

Think you still have to clean off any flaky rusty metal and degrease before hot dipping galvanising on the radiator support etc There is a recent thread here about Powder coating versus hot dipping for more info...I dont think I want to put the calipers on the car...I just want to use them as massive paper weights or ornaments on the mantle piece :)

[Yandards 0]

So does the galvanising replace the need for any kind of media blasting ? Even on original crusty units ???

 

Brakes will look mint when put on. Keen to see how you finish them off as it's next on my massseeeeff list of jobs.

 

Part of the prep process for dip galvanising will involve cleaning and degreasing, this can and should incorporate a corrosion removal process.

 

I currently have an old siezed rear caliper in my roof undergoing electrolitic cleaning (removal of rust and gunge via electrolosis) I have some before and during pictures so just waiting on the after.

 

If it all goes well I might be tempted to start a caliper refurb service, as I also have a electro plating kit as well!

[GlosterOx 0]

Interesting on the front calipers, are they still heavy as I am trying to work out what coating they have applied to them - it looks like electro-plated zinc but without the yellow passivate they used to use (gave the calipers a gold colour).

 

Zinc plate can be passivated different colours other than yellow/gold, clear being one of them - That is what the finish looks like to me.

 

Ian.

[Yandards 0]

Zinc plate can be passivated different colours other than yellow/gold, clear being one of them - That is what the finish looks like to me.

 

Ian.

 

True, I have the chemicals to do clear just not tried it yet. It was more a case of 'they used to yellow passivate them so why not now?' type query.

[RW1 0]

I've just looked back at my old Scirocco and Corrado photos. The colours of the calipers when new wasn't yellow. The colour of the calipers on page 3 are what I had when new. I've only ever seen "yellow" on none Scirocco / Corrado calipers made as spares and they iirc were for vans/transporter type vehicles.

 

.

[Yandards 0]

I've just looked back at my old Scirocco and Corrado photos. The colours of the calipers when new wasn't yellow. The colour of the calipers on page 3 are what I had when new. I've only ever seen "yellow" on none Scirocco / Corrado calipers made as spares and they iirc were for vans/transporter type vehicles.

 

.

 

Wierd, I got a set of VW dealer supplied rears about 5 years ago and they came in yellow passivate, must be the luck of the draw.

[VWVW 1]

Front end is still in pieces at the moment and have been for 4 weeks now…How time fly!!! I REALLY missed driving the raddo especially with the nicer weather we have been getting.

 

Front end parts were dropped off two weeks ago for blasting and to be powdercoated in satin black instead of gloss black and should be ready soon.

 

 

 

Whilst the front end is all dismantled.

 

 

1. I have dismantled the headlight unit. Cleaned it inside out and reassembled. So no more green coloured nasties molds anywhere. After all the hard work I should really have bought some new lens …but as they are not broken. I will do that at a later date…just want to priorities expenses at other areas at the moment.

 

2. Have degreased the engine the best I could and treated any rust area on the engine itself with a coating of genolite rust inhibitor with the intention of painting it at a later date.

 

3. Decided to give the positive cable end a sand down and clean up on the starter motor. I ended up ripping a chunck off the starter motor in the process Dohhh!!!

 

As I loosened the bolt. The metal part (its pretty huge) on the positive cable rotated and put pressure on a sensitive part on the starter motor and took that section off so be careful if your gonna do the same. Make sure it doesn’t rotate with the nut as you loosen it. So took the old starter motor for a genuine VW exchange one.

 

4. Fitted new genuine corrado header tank and cap…It really makes a huge difference compared to the old one. I don’t think I will need to rock the car ever again just to see where the coolant level is anymore.

 

5. Have used a tin of VW spray wax but they were so expensive...so source an alternative one from tool station which seems to be pretty good at only £3 pounds a can. Only problem with the tool station wax is that you cant attach a straw to it for precise application...so I took the spray cap off another can that allowed a straw attachment and place it on the tool station one instead.

Edited April 2, 2011 by VWVW

[VWVW 1]

Front end bits and the front brake carriers blasted and powder coated. Given the condition that they were in before I cant believe the transformation. Everthing looks and feels solid again no more crusty bits of rust. Really pleased with it and worth the two weeks wait.

 

Will be spraying the cross member and radiator support a few cans of cavity wax in the "hollow areas" before putting everything back together

 

New engine and bumper bolts, cross member rubber bungs were ordered for the assesmbly.

 

Sometimes I cant believe the amount of time I spend doing this car up :)

Edited April 10, 2012 by VWVW

[James. 7]

 

Sometimes I cant believe the amount of time I spend doing this car up :)

 

it'll be worth it when it's all back together and looking top class.

 

Are you having the Shrick shot blasted clean ?

[VWVW 1]

Are you having the Shrick shot blasted clean ?

 

Yeah would love to get the shrick shot blasted in the future but its low in the priority list at the moment. As soon as I get the front end done. I think the heater Matrix will be next as preventative maintenance.

 

How is your front end parts coming along you managed to get them blasted and coated yet ?

[VWVW 1]

Its been a month and a half of hard labour and I am pleased to say the Corrado front end is all reassembled with newly powder coated bits, lots of new bolts, new VW header tank and new blue cap, Coolant change with G++ and power steering fluid change, forked out for a new VW starter motor as I managed to damage the old one.

 

Whilst I had the front end dismantled I also replaced the heater matrix with a new valeo branded one from GSF as preventative maintenance. Turned out the old one I took out was in very good nick see pic of old and new side by side. I was a bit gutted in a way after all that effort. Hardest part of this job is taking out the Glove box and the lower half L shaped air duct behind the centre console see pic

 

Whilst the matrix was out I greased up all the cogs in the heater control and in the heater box itself all the dials operative smoothly now.

 

I managed to replace the heater matrix without taking the whole dash out method – The hardest bit of this job was taking the Glove box out and the bottom half of the air duct behind the centre console.

 

Found some poor alarm fitter worksmanship along the way. Wires were left exposed. I Had to cut and respade the wirings some before and after pics attached.

 

The glove box was a bit of a pain to put back so I hacked off the grid matrix at the base to make it easier. It now just slides in with ease

 

Thats all folks !!!

Edited May 29, 2011 by VWVW

[fla 9]

good work - i cut that section off the glovebox too, makes it a LOT easier!

[wy906 0]

Good work!

[VWVW 1]

Took the plunge and cleanedd the interior carpet as it was looking a bit dirty. See before and after pics. Did not involve a lot of expense for once. It was just labour intensive!!! Well happy with the results.

 

I started to use the pressure washer at first but it seemed it was too harsh for the carpet even from a distance so decided to do it all by hand instead using an alloy wheel brush, a 1001 carpet cleaner from Home Bargains for 99p and any stubborn stains was easily removed using Autoglym intensive tar remover.

 

All the interior trim also had a good clean and scrub down and they are now spotless.

 

Took loads of pictures on the way of all the trims I have taken out and where all the screws came from as reminder when it came to putting everything back in again.

 

Carpet took about 2 days to dry in the open.

Edited October 23, 2011 by VWVW

[James. 7]

Surprised they even dried at all at the moment. They do look really good though. It makes a massive difference on light carpets and worth the effort.

[VWVW 1]

Car is parked up on a slight incline with the front end of the car pointing down towards the hill.

 

A few days ago...I went to the car to finish off putting back my newly cleaned carpet into the car. I noticed there was a slight wet patch on the front driver side foot well area.

 

I did some investigation and took driver side door panel off and found the membrane seal around the speaker area was not sealed properly and had allowed rain water to get in. See pic with red circle. This is the first time I have taken the door panel off and it must have had this leak ever since I bought the car and have not noticed it due to the corrado mat over the carpet and the leak was only slightly.

 

I have re-stretched the membrane back to where it should be making contact with the black mastic sealant and sealed any long rips with duck tape.

 

With the footwell area all dried again. I waited for heavy rain…checked the carpets again this morning and the carpet remained dry.

 

Also not sure if anyone else have noticed. If you park your car on an incline with your front end of the car pointing down towards the hill. A lot of water collects inside the door frame. My drainage holes are all fine and clear. It just that water seems to collects in the furthers corners inside the door. When you open the car door after a heavy downpour. Loads of water will come out from one corner of the drainage point if you swing your car door in the opening and closing motion. Just a though for anyone that leaves their car in this incline position for long period of time. You may have to periodically open your car door just to drain excess water away.

[fla 9]

you're quite right about the water collection in the door, but good on you for sorting the leaks. I replaced the membrane in mine with smaller pieces to cover the open holes in the doors, so in effect the metal of the door is exposed. But it also means you can spot exactly where the leaks are coming from.

[CazzaVR 0]

That carpet's come up so well. Well worth doing!

[Supercharged 2]

Haha - the hacksaw pic made me chuckle - I power-sanded mine off!