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ANDREW 30

Auto closure stopped working and electric windows!! HELP!!

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I just got home and my car doors were locked on me and the interior handle would'nt open the drivers door, so i pulled up the door pin and then opened the door.

I then tried to lock the door with the windows down, so the car would run through locking the doors then do the windows etc but nothing!

I then got back in the car and started it and i could hear and see the doors and boot locking and unlocking themselves, the locking unlocking procedure happened about 6-8 times and then stopped. So i stopped the car got out and everything is working again as it should!

Where is the module that controls this, and any suggestions for a cure for if it should happen again!

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Dunno what causes this, but the same thing happened on mine last year, I leant on the button with my arm when the window was down, and it caused the same thing. It's never happened since though.

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Could be an iffy connection in the door handle (there's a microswitch in it that triggers the C/L interface) or the C/L interface could be dying. I believe it's behind the offside rear 1/4 panel....

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So far i've not had chance to look further into this, but today the auto closure on my key has stopped working altogether!

Are the electric windows on a corrado linked to the autoclosure in anyway as they've stopped working too, i've checked the main fuse board for any blown fuses but they all seem okay.

Any help on this would be great, as opening the doors with a key is no major problem untill i get time to sort it but the windows could be a major ball ache with the forecasted hot spell on the way!!!

 

Andrew

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Could be an iffy connection in the door handle (there's a microswitch in it that triggers the C/L interface) or the C/L interface could be dying. I believe it's behind the offside rear 1/4 panel....

Is this central locking interface a different unit to the pump that is mounted on the drivers side of the boot?

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Could be an iffy connection in the door handle (there's a microswitch in it that triggers the C/L interface) or the C/L interface could be dying. I believe it's behind the offside rear 1/4 panel....

Is this central locking interface a different unit to the pump that is mounted on the drivers side of the boot?

 

edit...the one in the boot is the c/l, the one behind the doorcard is windows iirc.

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The fuse for the central locking / power windows is on top of the fuse-box, not part of the long line of fuses.

 

On mine, this fuse blew and testing showed that the wire from this fuse was going straight to earth. Result: no power windows and no central locking.

 

Still havent traced where the earth is ... ... diagnosis continues. Best of luck if you have to get into the power-window control module that lives behind the offside trim by the rear seats. It's a real pig to get into - and the big white connector does not, as far as I can determine, pull free from the module, even when you have extracted the circuitboard from the box :?

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Thanks very much for the reply,

Do you mean it's higher up on the board above the relays or is it loose in a fuse holder?

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Its on the top of the fuse box, left hand side. There looks to be space for 4 ( i think ) similar stand-alone fuses, but on mine just the one is in use. I think its a 20 amp fuse, biggy !

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Cheers i found the 20A fuse earlier and replaced it!

I'm not sure what to check first really, i guess that being the door locking was the first issue to look there!

So to get this straight the modual behind the rear panel only controls the windows and the one on the drivers side of the boot is all the gubins for the locks!

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I have to admit to not being totally sure, but the module behind the rear panal ( not in the boot ) is called the Power Windows Control Module - but I think that this and the locking stuff in the boot area do share some wiring :(

 

I'm away for a week or so after last thing Saturday, so good luck - and post here any faults you find, please :)

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Well i replaced my central locking pump and the electric window module today, but i think my problem is still with me as after unlocking the car i could hear the central locking pump still running!

I jump started my car from the wifes and took it for a 15 mile drive, when i got back it would start off the key a couple of hours later not enough juice to turn the damned thing over.

I think i'd better give the battery a good charge before i jump to conclusions, but i recon the problem is something else!

I'm totally gutted as i wanted to go to rtts tomorrow, i don't fancy going and looking a right numpty infront of hundreds of people when it lets me down.

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I spent two years (probably 20 weekends) and around £80 in parts trying to sort out the same problem. In the end after testing everything I rung an auto electrician and he sorted it in 2 hours for £80!

 

I would never have found the problem either being a split wire behind the dash/bulkhead!

 

Call in the experts is my advice :grin:

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