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Swompy

Lets have your thoughts

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I'm thinking about giving my engine a good over haul as its using oil and driving me up the wall :scratch:

 

It wont be happening till the end of the year (if its going to happen at all) after I've saved like mad but I've thought about a few ways of going about it.

 

I would like to rebuild it my self but I know this will take long than taking it to DG

 

What I've thought about so far is

 

1. Take it to DG for a full rebuild nothing fancy

 

2. Rebuild the engine my self as above then take it to DG to be set up

 

3. Find a crashed damaged MK3 or MK4 Golf GTI with low millage and swap the engine over.

 

More expensive ideas now

4. Get DG to rebuild it with a flowed head, ABF cams, 4 branch mani, and maybe rebore the cylinders so its a 2.1l ( if possible) :shrug:

 

or

 

5. Do the above my self but send the block and head off to be done properly then take it to DG to be set up

 

Really I would like to have more power at the end of it but still keep the essence of the valver ( Ie. no FI ) and be able to give the G60 and VR boys a run for there money 8)

 

Either way I know it wont be cheap and will take a while

 

What you guys think any other suggestions?

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Get another engine,and rebuild that !

You wont feel pressurised to rush it,or compromise on parts.

just my 2p

 

I knew i missed something off that list :brickwall:

 

But ya thats one of the other options

 

I forgot to say I will have another car to use during that time

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Get a bigger engine. The crash damage option sounds good if you can then break the rest for spares.

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surely it will take a lot of $$$$ to make it as quick as a VR? its not what you want to hear but i would just buy a VR and spend time/money sorting it out so its mint personally...

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Sell it and get a VR6!

 

ouch

 

p/p the head i wasn't going to rebore but get some performance cams and a nice exhaust mani

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Sell it and get a VR6!

 

ouch

 

p/p the head i wasn't going to rebore but get some performance cams and a nice exhaust mani

 

I could all ways buy a VR but belive it or not I dont want to :ignore: ( at the moment any way) The only thing wrong with my car is the engine playing up.

 

And If every one is jumping into VR's then in the no to distant futur there isnt going to be any decent Valvers about so :p to you telling me to buy a VR :lol:

 

But I might go down the buy a engine and rebuild that with flowed head and 4 branch road. then swap it over.

 

Rebuild my engine and sell that on.

 

But with the crash damged route I could hopfuly make some money back by selling parts. :shrug:

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I could all ways buy a VR but belive it or not I dont want to :ignore: ( at the moment any way) The only thing wrong with my car is the engine playing up.

 

And If every one is jumping into VR's then in the no to distant futur there isnt going to be any decent Valvers about so :p to you telling me to buy a VR :lol:

 

Well I admire your statement and while I own and love my VR6 hope some of us keep as many of the others on the road as possible! So buy and rebuild gets my vote!

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Helpful as ever, Chris! :lol:

 

You're gonna end up spending a lot on the rebuild. I would only do that if you defo intend to keep it for another 2-3 years, otherwise not worth it. If you intend to change the car before then, just get a VR... seriously!

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I could all ways buy a VR but belive it or not I dont want to :ignore: ( at the moment any way) The only thing wrong with my car is the engine playing up.

 

And If every one is jumping into VR's then in the no to distant futur there isnt going to be any decent Valvers about so :p to you telling me to buy a VR :lol:

 

Have you actually driven a VR yet?

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I'd just buy a running Mk3 GTi with low miles but uber tatty/mild accident damage/MOT fail which should set you back no more than £500, take a week off work and swap the engine straight over. Save loads of money on not needing to buy another car to use daily, get you back in the Corrado ASAP and should make a few hundred back breaking the parts off the Golf. I can't see the point is spending loads of money tuning/rebuilding an ABF engine, would be cheaper to sell up and buy a VR.

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I have just re-built my 2.0 16v.

 

At 206,000 miles in needed a re-bore and and new pistons/rings. £130 for rebore, £580 for 0.5mm oversize pistons and rings.

 

If you can get away with just new rings in the original bores, do that, along with new main and big end bearing shells, and a good clean up of the oil pump strainer.

 

I got a 'man in the shed' head for mine - ported, lightly skimmed, 3 angle valve seats etc. Budget for £400 - £500 for a nice head.

 

Gaskets, belts, bolts etc, allow £100 - £150.

 

Labour - free if you can do it yourself :shock: if you cannot.

 

Yes if you want more power it is cheaper to by a vr6, but the vr6 will not have a freshly built engine, so potentialy could cost money in the future.

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I have just re-built my 2.0 16v.

 

At 206,000 miles in needed a re-bore and and new pistons/rings. £130 for rebore, £580 for 0.5mm oversize pistons and rings.

 

If you can get away with just new rings in the original bores, do that, along with new main and big end bearing shells, and a good clean up of the oil pump strainer.

 

I got a 'man in the shed' head for mine - ported, lightly skimmed, 3 angle valve seats etc. Budget for £400 - £500 for a nice head.

 

Gaskets, belts, bolts etc, allow £100 - £150.

 

Labour - free if you can do it yourself :shock: if you cannot.

 

Yes if you want more power it is cheaper to by a vr6, but the vr6 will not have a freshly built engine, so potentialy could cost money in the future.

 

I would say all of the above and / or convert it to run on carbs. it may seem counter intuative, but the power gains can be quite substantial and the noise is fantastic! Might cost a fair bit and fuel economy would be shot but it could be worth it!

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I have just re-built my 2.0 16v.

 

At 206,000 miles in needed a re-bore and and new pistons/rings. £130 for rebore, £580 for 0.5mm oversize pistons and rings.

 

If you can get away with just new rings in the original bores, do that, along with new main and big end bearing shells, and a good clean up of the oil pump strainer.

 

I got a 'man in the shed' head for mine - ported, lightly skimmed, 3 angle valve seats etc. Budget for £400 - £500 for a nice head.

 

Gaskets, belts, bolts etc, allow £100 - £150.

 

Labour - free if you can do it yourself :shock: if you cannot.

 

Yes if you want more power it is cheaper to by a vr6, but the vr6 will not have a freshly built engine, so potentialy could cost money in the future.

 

I would say all of the above and / or convert it to run on carbs. it may seem counter intuative, but the power gains can be quite substantial and the noise is fantastic! Might cost a fair bit and fuel economy would be shot but it could be worth it!

 

According to his signature his car is a 94 model, which needs a cat for the mot emissions.

 

Some nice carbs will likely end up with a :nono: from the mot man.

 

I'm currently doing loads of research into Ke-motronic and setting it up to run a modified engine, and getting good results so far. Alternatively there is always stand alone management and maybe even ITBs for those who can afford them.

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Either way I'm going to do this as it needs to be done and I dont want to just give up on the car and condem it to a scrap heap

 

AS its only covered 96K the cylinders should be ok unless something has gotten into there and scored the inside.

 

So what sort of things would I be looking at replacing, gaskets, seals, bearings, injecters, tappets, springs, HT leads.

 

What els would I need to get? :shrug:

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Hi Swompy Stick to your guns and keep the valver alive its great to hear that someone is prepared to spend big money and get the engine back up to where it should be. I admire your determination and dedication and this will keep the numbers of valvers in good condition rather than letting it go for he sake of a VR :D

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I've had a few 16v's in my time ( still got a mk2 golf 16v ), some are like lightning, others sluggish and believe me the clean looking well maintained examples seemed the worst lol, the rough oily neglected ragged to death ones seemed to come alive, seems as though these engines love punishment.

 

You're saying yours is using oil, ??? it's probably the valve seals, they all go that way, personally whip off the head, treat it to a new headset, if you've got some spare money, have the head worked and bolt it all back together, should be good as gold with 100000's more miles left in it, you could look at the inlet and manifold and upgrading the throttle body if you want to keep it original, the trouble is the money spent could buy a 20v Turbo engine which would bring it up to date and you're never gonna achieve the same power without spending a small fortune on the 16v.

 

The Vr's are something else, my personal opinion would be to buy a VR, a lot cheaper and the money could be spent getting some serious power but if you want to stay original then you shouldn't have to touch the bottom end unless she's got some fatal issues occuring and give it a head set and some more country lane heavy peddling and it will love you forever :)

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as much as everyone does have a valid point about the vr being a better lump, he doesnt want one, so why still go on at him?!

He wants to rebuild his valver, so why cant we give him some HELPFUL advice about that instead of telling him to buy somethin he dont want!

 

Buying an ABF mk3 and swapping the whole lot over is a good suggestion, however if it were me id still want to rebuild it so i knew it wouldnt go pop anytime soon.

 

if it were me, id buy a p&p'd KR head and cams, you can get one for little money and rebuilding a head is easy enough and cheap enough.

 

then either rebuild your (im presuming 9A) bottom end, or try and find a low miler in good condition. bolt it all together, chuck on a 4-2-1 stainless manifold, and 2.5" straight through exhaust, k&n panel filter and power rohr intake pipe, ported TB and you should be around 165bhp.

 

if it were me id run it on kjet fuelling, and have it set up properly by stealth or the like (gods at playing with kjet imho)

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as much as everyone does have a valid point about the vr being a better lump, he doesnt want one, so why still go on at him?!

He wants to rebuild his valver, so why cant we give him some HELPFUL advice about that instead of telling him to buy somethin he dont want!

 

Buying an ABF mk3 and swapping the whole lot over is a good suggestion, however if it were me id still want to rebuild it so i knew it wouldnt go pop anytime soon.

 

if it were me, id buy a p&p'd KR head and cams, you can get one for little money and rebuilding a head is easy enough and cheap enough.

 

then either rebuild your (im presuming 9A) bottom end, or try and find a low miler in good condition. bolt it all together, chuck on a 4-2-1 stainless manifold, and 2.5" straight through exhaust, k&n panel filter and power rohr intake pipe, ported TB and you should be around 165bhp.

 

if it were me id run it on kjet fuelling, and have it set up properly by stealth or the like (gods at playing with kjet imho)

 

Thank you at least some one noticed :D

 

Like I've said above I shouldnt have anything wrong with the bottom end at all and it will really need is a new head.

 

Thsi si what I'm going to do, which is mainly focused on the head.

 

Find a P+P head, 4-2-1 mani, ABF cams and all new parts in the head.

 

The bottom end I will leave alone apart from new gaskets, unless it has something wrong with it, but it shouldnt have.

 

How hard is it to convert a 9a fueling to a KR fueling?

 

Thanks for the link Andrew but unfortunatly I dont have that sort of money right now and thats one of the main reasons I'm waiting until the end of the year.

I dont want silly power out of it just enough to be quicker than normal but not get left behind by other corrado's.

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