The Racelogic Traction Control thread

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Try it first. The factory ABS sensors are inductive and don't need a power supply. I don't understand why the Racelogic needs the ABS ECU and pump to be working just to read signals from the sensors, but if that's what it needs, that's what it needs!

[buttles 0]

The ABS rotors arn't magnetised are they? Think they are just a proximity on/off ring. If so then the sensor would have to have a power supply of some sort? An email to Racelogic should get you the answer.Neil

[dragon green 4]

Having bought Kevhaywire`s racelogic, and speaking to Vince (Stealth) i have ordered a launch control to go with it.

and on the 9th December,he is fitting it :clap: :clap: :clap:

stay tuned for more updates lol

[coullstar 0]

Could the guys that have done this take some photos of where the lines are spliced in and where you have placed everything.

[buttles 0]

Hi, problem is ,it's all buried in the car now. (as is the car right now) Control box sticks snugly on front of glovebox, ABS wires tapped in at ecu plug and injector loom inserted just under the Rad fan control unit about 4 inches back from the engine multiplug. Bypass plugs (white) sit on top of pax shelf. Tapping for rpm signal at engine ecu plug and switched live at ignition switch. Any more info pls ask. Neil

[coullstar 0]

Thanks, read through the instruction last night and im fairly confident on getting it done. Will just need to take my time. For the ABS is it either of the sensor lines that you can use?

[coullstar 0]

Few more questions I can think of.

 

1. Whats the best mething of stripping the wires?

2. Any specific crimp tools required?

3. How did you protect the soldered connections?

4. Is there any parts of the wiring that I need to watch for length wise i..e. that are almost two short?

 

Im sure there will be loads more and I'll try and take photos as I go along to hel people in the future.

[buttles 0]

Answers...!

 

1. To bare the sensor wires on the ABS loom just use a stanley blade to expose just enough to tin. DO NOT CUT THEM! All others just what comes to hand. I use a stanley all the time (Skin on thumb quite thick now)

2. Any generic tool for crimps. I backed up all crimps with solder. I joined the injector wires with solder only

3. Suitable diameter heat shrink then loom tape in the engine bay.

4. You should have a loom from Racelogic with the long injector wires to run from the pax shelf area forward into the engine bay. The red switched live lead is quite short. I just extended it with spare cable.

 

The ABS has four wires that need to be tapped into the loom. Make sure you tap into the signal wire not the shielding wire!! The instructions are a bit vague as to which channel is which lead. It doesn't really matter as you can check and allocate that in the software.

Have you got a wireing diagram for the injector loom? Helps alot when drawing the circuit. Keep 'em coming!!

 

Neil

[coullstar 0]

Thanks, the injector wires are quite long. I'll need to sit and have a look at the car and trace everything back first then make sure I can get everything positioned ok before starting.

 

Any recomendations for soldering irons? Ive never done it before :shrug: .

[Kevin Bacon 5]

My recommendation for the soldering iron - http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=10271

 

My recommendation for solder - http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Fasten ... e=googleps

 

Avoid cheap non-temp controlled soldering irons and cheapy thick solder from B&Q. Reason - It just won't get hot enough to do a proper job this time of year.

 

I've used those for years and they've been superb.

 

Soldering tip - clean the soldering tip before each job (wipe it on the supplied foam pad, which needs to be wetted), tin the tip with fresh solder. Place the tip on the wire then touch the solder onto the wire until it melts around and through the strands.

 

If you don't heat the solder enough you will create huge clumps of solder that just sit on the surface and don't penetrate the wire strands. If it's too hot, you will melt the sheathing further up the wire. Just takes practice, but as ever, the quality of the tools and solder determines the quality of the finished job :wink:

[buttles 0]

I just have a halfords one. If your new to soldering then it's worth practicing first. You need to be able to tin the bare wires first time to get a clean join. Can be easy to burn the insulation Trying different temperatures to find what gets the best first time results. Don't worry it's not rocketry! You will find big differences between inside and outside iron temps!! Neil

And what Kev just said!!

[coullstar 0]

Just remembered I dont have power at the garage, bugger.

[dragon green 4]

you can buy gas pencil soldering irons- i find them very good

[buttles 0]

The gas ones are great. BUT, far too much to melt around where you are going to be working. And it's quite a long fiddly job, will be refilling a few times.

[coullstar 0]

Cheers guys. You mean like this - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Refillable-Pen-St ... 255e071197

 

Ive got a gennie I use for tyre warmers but its a bit agricultural and loud.

[buttles 0]

Iv'e got one of these. Struggles in the cold a bit but very good normally. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Mod ... &U=strat15. I would suggest that you use a 'leccy one though :wink:

[coullstar 0]

Sod it I'll give that a go with some spare wire first. Im well up for this now. Maybe even give it a go this weekend.

[coullstar 0]

Ok, got the loom out and went for a look at the car. First off all Im presuming the wires in the first photo are connected for the launch control?

 

Are these the long inj lines you mentioned earlier?

 

The injector wiring bundles together at the front of the coilpack and then goes into the multiplug. Did you splice into the injectors in this section?

 

Did you tap into the ABS sesors at the multiplug shown in the 4th photo or at the ABS ECU?

 

My car is rewired by the previous owner to OBDII so it might not be as straightforward to trace wires I think.

[buttles 0]

Right!...... First photo. Those just join together to form the control loom. Launch control and different levels of slip required.

Second photo. The two long looms draped gracefully are the injector cables, good, you have the long ones. Those are both cut and reconnected with the white plugs to form the bypass link. Make sure you are logical and make them so they can be joined together to form a circuit if you need to remove the control box.

Third photo. Access to the wires in the loom are on the car side of the multiplug. I have no knowledge of OBD 2 wireing so will stop here!!

Fourth photo. No. The signal wires go into the ECU in the pax footwell by door hinge. They are neatly in a row.

 

Peasy really!! Good luck. Neil

[coullstar 0]

Peasy really!! Good luck. Neil

 

Thanks, I think I'll need it!!! Injector wires in the kit were apparent. Looks like Im going to have to strip some of the loom tape back then as a lot of it is bundled together. Injector wires are going to be a PITA to identify I think at the ECU side of the multiplug :( .

[buttles 0]

Depends if you have a wireing diagram? If the obd 2 stuff is the same colour code or not as 1. Be sure before you start choppin!

[poll250 0]

Hey guys, just after a bit of advice re this Racelogic.

 

How would this work with my wavetrac LSD? When slip was detected wouldn't the racelogic kick in and kinda make the LSD redundant? i.e. Would it kill the power before the diff started working?

 

How are the guys with it fitted finding it in this weather? How does it affect snow/ice driving?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

How would this work with my wavetrac LSD? When slip was detected wouldn't the racelogic kick in and kinda make the LSD redundant? i.e. Would it kill the power before the diff started working?

 

How are the guys with it fitted finding it in this weather? How does it affect snow/ice driving?

 

Remember the wheels have to slip before the Racelogic does anything mate :D

 

Or think of it a different way. If the wheels slip less because of the LSD, the less work the Racelogic has to do and the objective with most driving aids is to trigger them as little as possible, or not at all :D

 

So the LSD improves your mechanical grip in the first place and the Racelogic is there as a backup in case you overwhelm it, which is all too frequent with boost.

 

Mechanical grip is always better than electronic aids (think 4WD) but having both together is the best possible traction you could have in a FWD Corrado. Individual wheel braking would be a very welcome and 3rd member to the party, but sadly the Rado's ABS can't do that.

 

If it works as well as modern DBW traction control, then you're in for a treat. In my missus's Polo, I can just nail the gas on snow and ice and it just tracks perfectly straight by closing the throttle and braking the slipping wheel. It's effortless and very reassuring. With snow tyres as a 4th member of the Traction control Boy band, then, if you still manage to ditch it.......hand your keys into the nearest police station and declare yourself as a public transport user from that day forth :D

[JMC 0]

Mines running in combination with a Peloquin LSD and to be honest it hardly ever kicks in - but it's nice to know it's there when needed. There is deinately no problem with having both and as Kev says it can only be an additive benefit.

[poll250 0]

I see, I see!

 

At the moment I don't really overwhelm the Wavetrac, but I imagine an extra 150bhp would soon see me heading towards a bush. I'm hoping the weather will warm up a bit soon so I can go see Vince about sorting a Turbo kit out. Will be a good chance to test both the Turbo and Racelogic I guess.

 

Did anyone else buy one in the GB but not fit it ? I'd be interested if so :)