krishen 2 Posted October 10, 2010 Ive had a squeaking from the front drivers side wheel for a while now. I think its the front drivers side as the driver side wheel is a lot hotter to touch than the passenger sides The sliding pins were removed and, sand papered down and re greased but the squeaking came back and the front drivers wheel was still extremely hot compared to passenger side. So yesterday i replacd the caliper with a another one (bought off here) and the damn squeaking is back. Weird thing is if i turn the steering to the left it disappears but then sometimes if i turn to the right it disappears. No consistency except for the squeaking and hot wheel :( It is driving me mad now. Literally 3 weeks ago i had the front bearing, wheel bearing, track rods and ends, bushes, new shocks and top mounts replaced at D&G so i don't think it will be anything to do with this. Any ideas, please please help :scratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KIPVW 0 Posted October 10, 2010 Have you tried swapping the pads around? Inner to outer etc.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
krishen 2 Posted October 10, 2010 Have you tried swapping the pads around? Inner to outer etc.. No haven't tried that. Will give it a try today. Out of curiosity why would that help? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
krishen 2 Posted October 18, 2010 Is there anything other than a sticking calliper that would make or create a squeak and make the wheel hot to touch? Im running out of ideas :-( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Tom 0 Posted October 18, 2010 When the car rolls to a stop can you feel a slight 'pull' as it stops, like the brakes are binding, or does the car roll completely smoothly to a natural halt? If it pulls up then the brake is definitely the problem, if not then it's something else. Is the brake hose routed correctly, i.e not twisted? And is the carrier torqued up to the correct figure? Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
krnau 0 Posted October 18, 2010 If you have replaced every brake-related bits, then it may be coming from elsewhere. It happened to me when my CV joint went out of grease. At first, it was only when driving for a +10 minute period and turning to right. a while after, it became undriveable due to the squeaking noise. re-greased and job done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
krishen 2 Posted October 20, 2010 When the car rolls to a stop can you feel a slight 'pull' as it stops, like the brakes are binding, or does the car roll completely smoothly to a natural halt? If it pulls up then the brake is definitely the problem, if not then it's something else. Is the brake hose routed correctly, i.e not twisted? And is the carrier torqued up to the correct figure? Tom The car rolls to a natural stop as far as i can tell. As soon as i touch the brake pedal the squeaking disappears. And i'm 99.9% sure that the carrier is torqued to the correct figure. The brake pipe is not twisted but 'straight'. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
krishen 2 Posted October 20, 2010 If you have replaced every brake-related bits, then it may be coming from elsewhere. It happened to me when my CV joint went out of grease. At first, it was only when driving for a +10 minute period and turning to right. a while after, it became undriveable due to the squeaking noise. re-greased and job done. I haven't replaced every brake bit. Thinking of doing disks and pads but im not sure if this would be causing the squeak? I had a boot on the cv joint that was split but that was replaced and squeaking is still there :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted October 21, 2010 Doing the discs and pads should fix it. It often happens if new pads are fitted wihtout replacing the discs. Two options - if you know an old style garage, get the discs skimmed if there is enough leeway on it, this removes a small layer from them, or look at your pads and sand away the edges to get a curved profile on them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VWVW 1 Posted October 21, 2010 On yours do you have the anti rattle shim missing ???- suppose to stops brakes from squealing. Fits inbetween caliper and pad. see pic below...I ve been told you can still get them from the dealers Also not sure how good your carriers are. You may have to file down the "carrier guide tracks" if its rusty so that the disk pads that rests on it can slide along smoothly question1.JPG[/attachment:2cllplfu] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Langsam 10 Posted August 23, 2014 I'm having the same problem replaced my front discs and pads because the old setup was warped. Realised someone has stolen the front ducts for the brakes in the bumper, so some flexible hosing later I have cooling to the front brakes but I still have this squeeking! I definitely remember my front brakes not having those intermediate discs in the pistons though. I hope fitting them removes the squeeking! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gti_Jamo 10 Posted August 23, 2014 I'm having the same problem replaced my front discs and pads because the old setup was warped. Realised someone has stolen the front ducts for the brakes in the bumper, so some flexible hosing later I have cooling to the front brakes but I still have this squeeking! I definitely remember my front brakes not having those intermediate discs in the pistons though. I hope fitting them removes the squeeking! New brakes will often squeak until bedded in a bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Langsam 10 Posted August 23, 2014 This isn't new brakes bedding in, my brakes have bedded in now. I've had brakes that I've had to bed in before where by using the brakes they then squeek, this squeeking is when I don't use the brakes. It only seems to be happening from the drivers side brake though really. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
16VG60 1 Posted August 23, 2014 Brake squeal or squeak, or whatever descriptive term one cares to use, is most often caused by the pads audibly resonating on lighter application of the brake pedal. Again typically if the brakes are prone to making a noise on light application, this will cease on full application of the brakes. If you are suffering from this problem, then given that all other function is as it should be, the issue will be brake dust build up and contamination of the contact surfaces. To resolve the issue, strip the callipers away from the carriers, remove the pads and clean thoroughly all the points at which components make contact with each other. Ie carrier rails for locating the pads, calliper piston face, calliper outer pad contact face and backs of the pads. If shims are fitted clean these too. In my experience the piston shims being present or not is of little consequence in this matter. On the calliper pad rails the brake dust build up can be compacted, so a coarse file is useful to clean away these baled on deposits. Once clean re-assemble without the use of any anti squeal Compound, yes without. Your problem should now be resolved on the proviso that all other function is ok. If you experience a return of the issue then a light application of anti squeal compound is ok to all metal to metal contact areas. The best compound to use is Innotec ceramic grease, it is longer lasting than Coppaslip. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Langsam 10 Posted August 23, 2014 That's precisely it, once I begin braking the noise becomes slightly more high pitch then with more brake pressure the noise goes away. I did do exactly that, when I originally changed the discs and pads. I have noticed now that the brake cooling ducts are now back in the bumper, there has been a lot more brake dust that usual. I'll jetwash the wheels and brakes then begin stripping them down and sorting them out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
16VG60 1 Posted August 23, 2014 We see this fault a lot with customers presenting cars with brake squeal. Total cleaning is the cure, and only use compounds when absolutely necessary. Do the job thoroughly and your problem will cease. I wish you many quiet miles :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites