davidwort 0 Posted June 24, 2011 only way to find out is to open her up, usually though if it's picked up on the bores and the pistons are scored it will be rattling pretty bad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 24, 2011 as david says it'll needto be stripped down to check. I may be wrong but i believe that the piston rigs wear in preference to the pistons themselves but you would need to check the diameters of the pistons checked in any case, plus ovality using a micrometer. If the pistons are scored though then it will be more, dont know how much to replace them, tbh. In that case it would be cheaper to get a 24v conversion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimDoc 0 Posted June 24, 2011 how easy would it be to drop a low milage 2.8 VR in? Is it literally one out one in? T Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 24, 2011 Yep! There are some subtle differences between late and eary VR6 engines but mechanically all the bits are interchangable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 24, 2011 in fact i dont think you'd really notice much difference in power - if you get an obd2 one even better, afaik they push out 185-190 horses all day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimDoc 0 Posted June 26, 2011 could this all be just a head gasket gone?? with all fluids leaking into the cylinder? T Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 27, 2011 could this all be just a head gasket gone?? with all fluids leaking into the cylinder? As David said.... only way to find out is to open her up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimDoc 0 Posted June 27, 2011 ...on the case - head coming off today me thinks! will post pics of what i find. T Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 27, 2011 Yeah get the old head off and some questions will be answered! :D Remember to budget for new headbolts as well as a new head gasket ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimDoc 0 Posted June 27, 2011 got stuck at removing the cam chains - no breaker bar or 24 mm open ended spanner. Will pick up breaker bar tomorrow and think neighbor has some large spanners. Pics tomorrow hopefully - unfortunately work starts again now so evenings only. T ---------- Post added at 08:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:45 PM ---------- ..oh- and quick question - the serpentine belt, had to remove the belt tensioner as part of the sequence - on the grooved side of the belt, all of the ridges (that are the opposite to the grooves) are cracked every few mm, guessing a new belt is required? T Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 27, 2011 Serpentine belt could do with changing then, if nothing else a new one will be quieter, they're reinforced so unlikely to snap from a bit of perishing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 27, 2011 Get a dealer belt, or make sure it's made by continental otherwise they can be noisy. As for your cams, just undo the front cam sprocket for now. Then undo the bearing caps and you can unhook the chain and remove the cams. The rear sprocket is an absolute pig to remove in situ because the cam sensor trigger is soft metal and the bolt's shoulder bites into it. Grips like schitt to a blanket. Last time I undid that one, I had to do it in a vice with a 5 foot breaker!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimDoc 0 Posted June 28, 2011 snapped a few bolts today - two on the exhaust manifold where it joins the down pipes, and one yesterday on the upper intake manifold where it joins the lower manifold - the intake one isnt an issue, but will have to drill through the exhaust ones and put in a new bolt. Getting there - much better progress now i picked up a breaker bar and a 24mm spanner - thanks for the advice on cam removal kev - i think i owe u a pint when im next in essex! T Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 29, 2011 No worries :D Yeah, exhaust studs tend to snap when they get old and rusted into place. VAG do a special spray called "Holt bolt paste" which you coat the studs with and that will stop them rusting / snapping in the future. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 29, 2011 I'm in suspense here waiting to see what the gasket looks like now :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimDoc 0 Posted June 30, 2011 alright - on the case this evening - photos hopefully tonight if i get time! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimDoc 0 Posted June 30, 2011 Here we go - replies on a postcard please! Is that a leaking gasket - cylinders 1 and 6 look manky, but cant see any scoring - would a gasket leak be enough to cause a misfire? If i rebuild - guides will need replacing - i am guessing i might as well do chains at the same time?? Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted June 30, 2011 1 and 6 look like oil burning to me. They are the first cylinders to suffer from ovalling of the cylinders i believe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimDoc 0 Posted June 30, 2011 how can you check for ovalling without removing the pistons and measuring or is it a diagnosis just made by the fact theres loads of oil, could this just be the gasket having gone at each end or am i just trying to be optimistic? T Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 30, 2011 So was it burning oil then? Could it be valve guides/seals? Was it down on power? I suppose it makes sense to check the block face and head for warping. It doesn't look like an obvious gasket leak from cylinder to cylinder or cylinder to oil gallery. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted June 30, 2011 Some one more knowledgable may correct me but, im pretty sure you'd have oil in the water and or steam coming from the exhaust, other then the normal condensation you get when it first starts. Though it could also be the valve stem seals. Hopefully it will be that rather then worn bores. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted June 30, 2011 No1 is defo busted rings. No.6 on the way out. Wouldn't bother trying to measure, they need doing or...... Vindis offered me a VR6 new half block and pistons for £500 at GTi on Sunday. They took it home. Maybe worth call. Nice busted chain tensioner you got there as well! . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 30, 2011 i would change that top chain guide while you're there, looks like the top has worn down totally - unfortunately it means the gearbox has to come off :( EDIT: RW1 beat me to it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimDoc 0 Posted June 30, 2011 thinking replacement engine will be quicker than all this work, one advertised on 52000 on fleabay - need to check the milage on it. Might look around for a newer one T Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
