Horrible Oil temperature

[simeone0704 10]

If the car is standing, and being used around town, the oil temperature can reach 150 degrees, while the water temp is 110.

 

Iif on a motorway the water temp is around 100 and oil temp around 130.

 

What are the possible causes of this??????????

 

If the oil temp is constantly at 130-150, will this cause any danger to the engine?

[aide 0]

i'd be very uncomfortable with both those temps, the higher water gets the nearer it gets to boiling/ blowing a pipe, the nearer oil gets to its rating the closer it gets to breaking down and losing its lubricating qualities - so both not good.

 

causes can be varied for both, but oil would be the most concerning for me so look at some of the search results for it first i reckon, good luck!

[dannyboy 0]

Oil temp is far too high!! I only got to 150 degrees oil temp when i dropped my coolant on the nurburgring in May and didnt realise.No coolant,oil temp went to 150 dregrees and oil pressure warning buzzer started to buzz.

 

at that temp your oil will break down very fast and oil will be very thin causing wear on metal to metal surfaces,ie NO OIL PROTECTION

 

Are you sure the guages arent beening a bit screwy? a engine with that temp wont run right.

 

You need to check youve got coolant in your system,otherwise youve got big problem

[fla 9]

Did you open the bonnet when you saw those temps? 150C will cook your face when you look at the engine bay! I would hope these arent the temps, were your fans running? As above check you've got coolant in there too. Perhaps may be a grounding issue. ON the motorway the water will usually be arround 70-80C, oil around 90C. If you let us know where you're based i'm sure somone could help out? WHich engine, btw?

[dragon green 5]

Mine read 160 a few years ago !

Mine just needed a new temp sender ,

[simeone0704 10]

Im based in north wales. Wrexham.

 

Fan is running fine and there is coolant in there but it is near the minimum marker.

 

Whats the first thing to change?

 

Engine is a 1.8 16v.

 

As soon as the oil temp goes above 110 it is hard to get it down.

[joby 0]

Its probably the heat exchanger thats causing the problem, had this with mine! The coolant runs through it and cools the oil, only problem is as it gets old it doesnt perform as it should! Valvers do run hot and mine will go up to 129 in traffic but yours is really high

 

---------- Post added at 11:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 AM ----------

 

http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1871

 

Could be this

[simeone0704 10]

What would you suggest to change then?

[joby 0]

well its trial and error really, Is the engine healthy what mileage and does it generally use oil and water? If not and its healthy i woul change the fluids with decent correct grade oil and coolant then change the heat exchanger but try the oil temp sensor first but dont run it up to that temp or you will cook it, The exchanger is easy enough to change just a bit fiddly

[Wompa 0]

My oiltemp is also higg.. but if I shut off the headlights the temperature drops. Try it.

[Yandards 0]

Its probably the heat exchanger thats causing the problem, had this with mine! The coolant runs through it and cools the oil, only problem is as it gets old it doesnt perform as it should! Valvers do run hot and mine will go up to 129 in traffic but yours is really high

 

---------- Post added at 11:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 AM ----------

 

http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1871

 

Could be this

 

Woah there.

 

A valver does run hotter than the same engine when compared to a MK 2 Goof but you should not be seeing oil temps above 106 degrees or so in either oil or water!

 

Joby if yours is seeing 129 degrees of oil temp in traffic then you either need a new radiator, fan or water pump as one or all of those is just not working at all.

 

Good quality oil stops working properly around the 120 deg C mark and upwards and aside from G60s you should never see oil temps above that in any other Corrado.

 

As both your oil and water temperatures seem to agree with one another then I would suspect it is not a sensor fault so look at the general state of your radiator for blocked/damaged fins but I would lean more towards a busted water pump - it may be spinning ok on the pulley put the impellor inside might not been turning anymore.

[colinstubbs 0]

I was gonna say what Yan said about the water pump having recently suffered! If you remove the thermostat you can get your fingers on the pump impellor, if the impellor turns with the belt still fitted then the pump needs changing unless you have a slack @rse belt!!

 

Get a VW pump if you need to replace it, my last pattern one only did 30k miles before spinning the impellor whereas the original had done 185k and I only changed it cos it started to leak!!

 

VW one is more expensive but much better value and better construction too!! The C now has an original one fitted again, oil temps 90C water around 80C :thumbleft:

Edited July 24, 2011 by colinstubbs

[joby 0]

I have had 2 valvers and both run hot and have always been led to believe that its normal, This current engine has been rebuilt and hasn1t been used much to be fair but the oil temp does go high in traffic but soon cools back down when its driving the rad is not that old and water pump was fine when it was fitted and the fan cuts in ok and cuts off, Maybe my temp senders duffed..

[Yandards 0]

I have had 2 valvers and both run hot and have always been led to believe that its normal, This current engine has been rebuilt and hasn1t been used much to be fair but the oil temp does go high in traffic but soon cools back down when its driving the rad is not that old and water pump was fine when it was fitted and the fan cuts in ok and cuts off, Maybe my temp senders duffed..

 

Maybe but you should not be seeing the figures you are in traffic, it might be a dodgy temp sender but I think it is unlikely that both of them are duff.

 

As it is only traffic it could be a dodgy fan not turning fast enough to shift some air.

[simeone0704 10]

The headlights dont affect it.

 

Yes the engine runs fine and does not lose any water or oil.

 

Im not a great mechanic, will i be able to fit the water pump myself? and are there any specialist tools i will need?

 

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_1.8_1991/p/car-parts/car-cooling-parts-and-car-heating/cooling/water-pump-gasket/?201440111&1&6fcaf43aecb25c85c881e2413ff877a07928ea79&WATP................ Is this one ok?

 

cheers

Edited July 25, 2011 by simeone0704

[davidwort 0]

water pump is a bit of a pita on an old 16v as the PAS pump stuff has to be removed as well as alternator, then worst case the studs that bolt the pump into the block can shear off, It's not a massively complex job but it helps to have a really good idea of what's involved before attempting it for the first time, you'll end up having to have it towed to a garage if the worst happens with those studs unless you are handy extracting studs and tapping threads out.

I bought a cheapish Infrared thermometer which has been great for checking temps in the engine bay, it's got a laser pointer to focus on a particular area and so you can check for hot spots/cold spots in the block, head and cooling system.

[Yandards 0]

You need new water pump to block bolts as they are one time use only as they are stretch bolts.

[simeone0704 10]

Cheers for the help

[davidwort 0]

You need new water pump to block bolts as they are one time use only as they are stretch bolts.

:lol: mine have been reused 4 times on 3 different blocks, never knew they were stretch!

[Yandards 0]

:lol: mine have been reused 4 times on 3 different blocks, never knew they were stretch!

 

Heh, yeah they are quarter turn after torque loading on install with a no re-use label so they must be - I didn't know that until recently either!