The Rising

[seafar99 10]

Great work once again!

[CazzaVR 0]

Fantastic work! The seats are stunning- look completely OEM 8)

[Redfox 10]

Thanks a lot guys,

As far as the colouring of the interrior goes that I did last year in January, it's holding up real well, with no visible wear and tear. I will report back if this changes.

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

 

ps: Anyone going for the 25'th year celebration in Holstein.

[Redfox 10]

Time for a small update.

I been a bit worried for the longevity of the various v-belt, belt for the g-lader etc. So I took the opportunity to change them all and the little shock absorber for the g-lader as well.

Some sound have dissapered and the engine seems to run a bit smoother and a bit more calm. Asnyway, peace of mind for the next many km's.

After taking the old ones off, I inspected them all, and found the inside to be worn, more than visible from outside. For example the belt for the powersteering was knackered, cracked many places on the inside, and a bit long as well.

The little rib belt inside the g-lader is now a 9mm model, so it's a bit wider than standard, for peace of mind. It fit's the original wheels, so no need to change them.

the shock absorber worked fine, but the new one is surely harder, and the interval is on time, so new parts on ;)

Brakes are to be renewed soon, so more later.

 

Here's the new wider g-lader belt:

[ATTACH]74708[/ATTACH]

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

Edited June 13, 2013 by Redfox

[Redfox 10]

Here's apicture of the nasty rusty bracket that holds the plastic cover for the generator. One like that in stainless is a high on my wishlist. Maybe someone feel like making a few and sell them?

Oh well, something is wrong with the uploader, so I'll try later ;)

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

[Redfox 10]

Here's apicture of the nasty rusty bracket that holds the plastic cover for the generator. One like that in stainless is a high on my wishlist. Maybe someone feel like making a few and sell them?

The etka part number for the whole thing is 191 903 091C, but the bracket itself is 191 903 091A. This is the 65Ah generator cover.

[ATTACH]74734[/ATTACH]

Oh well, something is wrong with the uploader, so I'll try later ;)

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

Edited June 14, 2013 by Redfox

[Redfox 10]

Small update,

 

Looking at my rear brakes, they are not worn out, but surely looking a bit longtoothed, so new calipers, new discs, bearings, fittings, pads etc, and now looking like this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75247[/ATTACH]

and this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75248[/ATTACH]

and this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75249[/ATTACH]

 

Cheers,

Redfox ;)

Edited August 9, 2013 by Redfox

[Redfox 10]

Okay, so now that I've got new rear brakes, I need propper pads, so Ferrodo was chosen, and these don't squeal and brake hard from start and also when hot:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75250[/ATTACH]

 

and this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75251[/ATTACH]

 

and this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75252[/ATTACH]

 

Not that you can see much when installed, but color is nothing, braking is good, both hot and cold. Dust is more than promised.

 

Then I finally got really tired of the crappy stainless exhaust system I installed last year, so I called a friend who is well at home on this as he do it for a living (tuning and building exhausts), and he modified to sit nicely, sit 1,5" higher, and also with no stress on the exhaust rubbers.

Finally he took off the old cat, cut the end odd and welded it to a new stainless 400 cell 3" sportscat.

It was really flat to drive the first few houndres kilometers, but surely it's faster now, so time for a rolling session soon. It's a bit louder, but nothing instrusive, and the acceleration got a boost for sure. Fuel is unsure at the moment, but I'll get back on that later too.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75253[/ATTACH]

More on this mod later on, as I am going to the 25 year anniversary for the Corrado in Schleswig-Holstein tomorrow!

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

Edited August 9, 2013 by Redfox

[Redfox 10]

Hmm, time for a small update,

 

Suddenly my handbrake snapped, well, became completely Loose, and upon disassenbly, I found that both cables had loosened themselves from the locking bracket under the handle. So I thought new cables was in place, but VW only supply new cables in a too short length. So what to do? I took off the two tubes that lead the cables through the chassis, cut them 18mm shorter, and reasembled everything Again.

Works a treat.

 

Now for something more problematis, as for a few days, after starting the car, it have been holding the raised idlespeed (1000) for longer than normal, and I must add, that weather have been 20-25 degrees cel.

Also, upon letting go of the faspedal, I see that the engine sits at 1500 rpm, only sometimes lowering to 810 rpm as normal.

I would like to ask if someone have experienced this and could possible point in the right direction to a sensor, a thermostat or?

 

I will note, that Water temp and oiltemp is perfect as normal.

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

Edited July 6, 2014 by Redfox

[DriverVR6 11]

Hi Redfox, how's things buddy?

Your car is looking great and it's nice to see that you're still doing things properly with great attention to detail.

I've never had the idling problem myself on any VW's I've owned, but a mate of mine has started to have the same problem on his. I suspect it's an air leak somewhere. I'll let you know if I find out any more.

My initial advice is to check the simple non expensive things first and you may get a quick simple fix!

[Redfox 10]

Thanks a lot for heads up on those items. I've now cleaned up the micro switch, lubed the throttle parts, and have been going over the pressure tubes.. Two seemed a bit on the Loose side. I've tried a few Cold starts yesterday and the day before, and it seems as if the problem is solved. So let's hope for that simple soloution!

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

 

ps: some mods in the pipleline ;)

[Redfox 10]

Hmm, been a while since i last did the above, and the problem is still there. I suspect it's the thermostat in the waterpump, that have gone lazy, so I've bouht another thermostat and a lot of other parts, which I will be adding soon. I'll get back on that thermostat solved the issue or not. Other than that, the Corrado is running fine and quick. I've been out in it a few times with the local Lotus Club, and it's not as fast the fast ones, but can easily follow along ;)

 

I've also had another problem:: when raining hard and a lot, there seems to be a small leak somewhere along the right side a-pillar, so a Little Water came onto the carpet below. I've taken doors apart, and redone the watershields on both doors, cleaned up the doors themselves, and thankfully they are as clean as from factory ;) Then rustprotected and reassembled, plus some new screw covers to suit the small ones on the edges of the doorcards. Those Things are hard to come by now asays.. So I asked the local VW pusher if they can get some, and the answer was: No. Hereby a heads up to you Guys, KEEP THEM AT ALL COSTS! Then I went on to the front Water tray, and there was nothing there. As you may know, I did a Golf 2 watertray in the front, and the gasket under the cabin air intake is now renewed.

Then I went on to looking under the final weather strip on the right hand side a-pillar, and there may have been a small mislaying of the sealant around the new front screen, so in heavy rain, there could be a Water ingression here. I then cleeaned it all up and redid it, as the craftsman WHO did the frontscreen apperently could not do such a simple task. Added the final weather strip and voila, no more Water inside the car, for now ;) Then I cleaned up the shole underside of the car plus the suspension, wheelarches etc, so it's nearly ready for Winter storage's hibernation.

 

Question: Does anyone have practical hands-on experience on the Castrol Edge TI engine oil?

I mean the newest version with added titanium something inside? I generally don't believe Commercials, and called Castrol, and they really had nothing to say about it. Most oil threads on the web is dominated by some strange peole WHO argue with no backing up of their sayings, so no use there either. It would be really nice to be hearing fromsomeone WHO actually runs on that new version.

 

And finally, here's a pic of the Corrado's stablemate ;)

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]80129[/ATTACH]

 

More later,

Redfox ;)

Edited November 11, 2014 by Redfox

[seanl82 23]

Call Opie Oils or PM oilman. Very clued up and always willing to give advice on this sort of thing.

[ChrisL 16]

Small update,

 

Looking at my rear brakes, they are not worn out, but surely looking a bit longtoothed, so new calipers, new discs, bearings, fittings, pads etc, and now looking like this:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75248[/ATTACH]

 

 

Cheers,

Redfox ;)

 

Are those new genuine brake calipers?

 

Lotus is awesome, love the look of them.

[Redfox 10]

Bought the lot at vw. Calipers are originals renoovated from a Company WHO do this. The splash plates were not changed at this Picture, but also vw.

 

Regarding the Lotus, yes, me too. The Corrado is a serious drivers car, with very good handling abilities, bit the Esprit is in a Whole different League. The can kiss their Ferrari (about same year) goodbye, as well as many newer cars. ;)

 

Cheers,

Redfox ;)

Edited November 12, 2014 by Redfox

[ChrisL 16]

Cheers, are the calipers painted or have they been zinc plated please? who renovated them please?

[Redfox 10]

A Danish Company. Yes, they are zinc plated.

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

[ChrisL 16]

Nice one thanks. how's it lasting?

[Redfox 10]

Quite well, but I don't drive in the Winter, and prefer not in rain either, but cannot allways avoid it. So will last longer tahn normal.

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

[Redfox 10]

Ah, a Little news here for the New Year.

 

Today, I finally after three years, managed to get my hands on a pair of original Corrado leather door handles, old style interrior.

One of only 50 set ever made ;)

Cleaned them up and they went right on. Looks VERY good on the interrior!

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

[Redfox 10]

Small update:

I've been having som trouble with the idle being fluctuating and raised plus a very high gasoline use. I have determined the problem to being twofold:

 

1: the blue watersensor on the front of the engine is defect having way too high internal resistance.

 

2: the thermostat inside the waterpump have gone lazy. It's stuch somewhere, so the engine cools too much, and I run it at 72 deg cel. Only staying long time in idle will bring it up to 88-92 deg cel.

 

So, I changed the blue sensor, plus the Black one for the Water temp instrument as well, and voila, idle is back to normal, no smell of petrol and car runs perfect. Before starting it, I took off the plus on the battery, and shorted the MINUS on the battery to the PLUS WIRE (NOT BATTERY!!). That should reset any faults and unload any capasitors inside the car. Then I waited a cup of tea's time, and redid the plus wire back on battery. Car runs great with lot's of power... he he.

I've bought a new waterpump plus a thermostat etc, so will be doing that shortly.

 

Question: Do I really need to undo all the belts and Wheels and servo pump to get to undo the cover of the waterpump, to be able to change the thermostat?

 

Kind regards,

Redfox.

Edited April 27, 2015 by Redfox

[Redfox 10]

Update:

I've just installed a new clutch cylinder and a new clutch slave cylinder, plus fluid. Works very well.

I also took off the fresh air intake box, and it's dead seal. Now with a fresh one.

 

But I have a question:

Is it meant to have a strip of Black sealant between the gasket and the body?

I think originally, there is this Little bit of Black sealer.

 

What do you do, to make absolutely sure, that no Water can enter the fresh air box?

 

Kind regards,

Redfox.

Edited June 13, 2015 by Redfox

[Redfox 10]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]81714[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]81715[/ATTACH]

Another update.

I noticed during a heavy rain, that the COrrado had a wet spot on the passengers footwell. I took the sunroof off, and inspected all 4 drains, which seemed to be perfectly clean and in place.

Then I took the door card off, and redid the weather sealing etc. Also okay.

Then I relealed the front screen.

And finally I took the waterdrain from my Golf 2 off, and took the fresh air intake off and cleaned up from the old seal underneath, and installed a new seal and Black sticky stuff, as per original.

Then all of it back together again.

I'll probably make a rain test tomorrow and inspect. I hope it's okay.

 

Cheers,

Redfox ;)

Edited June 15, 2015 by Redfox

[Redfox 10]

A few days ago, I took the left drive axle off, and changed the outer joint to a new one, plus the rubber boot, since it was split in two; and a few small items.

Desperately needs a tracking now. So will do on Tuesday.

Yesterday I washed and cleaned the car inside out, and added a nice layer of Autoglym HD Wax. Highly recommended.

Today I added another layer of Wax.

Then I cleaned the paintet parts of the engine compartment, doorframes, loading area of trunk etc.

Then I went on to change engine mounts.

Since I have had a hard time to find out how to do it, since I couldn't find a propper description, and the fat American manual is of no use on this, I shall repeat the procedure I invented here.

 

So, for the front engine Mount, one have to do the following:

 

- open bonnet, and remove the plastic cover with stickers over the radiator.

- loosen and remove the two hose clips on the middle part of the pressure tube, just behind the top of the radiator.

- This gives access to the top nut on the front engine Mount. Remove it with a very long extension on a 3/8" socket set.

Add a dab of grease, and it won't fall out, while lifting it out.

- insert a Jack under the left side and lift car as much as it can.

- insert another Jack under the gearbox, and lift the engine a fair bit. (a few cm). Use a piece of Wood between Jack and gearbox.

- Undo the big 17mm bolt under the front cross member, that holds the front engine Mount.

- loosen the small bolt that holds a small bent bracket that supports the servo hose, and turn it out of the way.

- undo the 13mm bolt that was covered by the servo hose.

- now the front engine Mount is Loose, but cannot come off, because of lack of Space.

- in the right hand side wheelarch, loosen and remove the two small bolts that hold the front bake air cooling tunnel.

- swivel the air tunnel a bit to the side and Down, without taking it off.

- now the two big 17mm and one smaller 13mm bolt can be taken off from below, on the front cross member (I think it's called). It's the extra stiffening bar, that the front engine Mount sits on.

- The front cross member can now be lowered on that side, that you have just losened. Note: since the engine and gearbox is lifter by the second Jack, there si no pressure on this part.

- Now there is enough Space to gently take out the front engine Mount, and swap for a fresh new one.

- reverse all of the above.

- I cleaned all bolts, renewed and greased them in copperslip, before inserting them.

- Voils, go dring a beer or better, start the engine and take a short trip around the block, and loosen the top nut on the front engine Mount, and let it idle a bit, before tightening it Again, to let it settle in it's place.

 

Since you Guys and Dolls have probably done this a thousand times, maybe this is a Waste. But for me, it makes sense to make up a small description here. Hope it can be od use for someone else ;)

 

Here's my very dead front engine Mount. Do you think I can reuse it? ;) I Wonder why my engine have been dancing the last few months?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]81774[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]81775[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]81776[/ATTACH]

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

Edited June 14, 2015 by Redfox

[Redfox 10]

Okay, today I managed to change the rear engine Mount on my Corrado G60.

I did it like this:

 

- Open the bonnet, and in the left side (seen fron headlights), Deep Down is the rear engine Mount.

- Undo the Electric connector on top of it.

- undo the small nut that is screwed Down into one of the three bigger 13mm bolts, with two or three long 3/8" extensions on a socket and a ratchet.

- turn the connector and it's bracket aside.

- Undo the three big flat clips that holds the heat shield Down. 1 clip on top, two on one side. USe a long plier and it's easy.

- Lift away the heat shield. It's fragile, so take care.

- Connect three long ½" extenders from a socket set, and undo the three 13mm bolts on top of the engine Mount.

- lift the car slightly, after having loosened the left Wheel (seen from headlights).

- undo the Wheel.

- Lift the car on the left side (seen from headlight), as much as the Jack can do, after having pulled the handbrake and a piece of lumber behind the rear Wheels.

- I also inserted two steel Wheels under the side of the car, to be safer.

- insert another Jack underneath the gearbox with a piece of Wood in between. I tried that, but had to move it to the oil pan. Only just support it.

- look into the wheelarch and locate the engine Mount. Underneath it, you can see two 17mm bolts. The one that is NOT vertical, goes into one side of the underside of the engine Mount. Undo that.

- You don't need to undo the suspension, front arb or anything else. There is exactly enough Space to wiggle it out with a normal 17mm spanner. It's a short bolt.

- behind it, on the other side of the engine Mount, is a similar bolt, except it's long. A normal short extension on a ½" socket set, will do. You may have to use a Little bit of force. Mine was easy enough to undo.

- raise the Jack under the engine/gearbox slightly, so you have a bit of Space between the engine and the engine Mount.

- From above, you can now simply lift up the old engine Mount, and inser a new one.

- do it all in reverse, and after having let the engine do a Little idleing, tighten the top three bolts to spec.

 

I will note, hat my new engine Mount is a normal one, not a harder one from a tuning Company. Still I get a Little more vibration in the car afterwards.

I expect to loosen all bolts on all three engine mounts (top bolts), idle the car or shake the engine slightly, and retighten. After a period of driving. I expect the vibration to settle to less. It's not overly much, but can be felt in idle, not when driving.

 

I cleaned all bolts and gave them a dab of copperslip.

 

I hope that someone can use this guide in the future.

 

Cheers,

Redfox.

 

Edit: After I took the old one out and inspected for failures, I noted, that I could easily tilt and turn the lower part, compared to the new one. The old one I took out is the original from vw and is from 1991! Surely softer.

Edited June 15, 2015 by Redfox