Vr6

[Benjevw 10]

 

 

 

All new brakes fitted now :) took my time but it's finally done .

So the other track rod end was even more of a b**ch to get off, resorted back to the grinder in the end as its always an easier option lol. I'll need to do every other bush/joint in the future I think as it all looks pretty old and ****ty under there. My dad seems to think its been in a river lol.

Coilovers were deliverd Saturday! Big thanx to trevyt for that. Didn't get chance to fit them yet but should get round to it tomorra after I've bled the brakes.

Does anyone know somewhere who does complete geometrics and tracking around Bedford/Milton Keynes? I'll probly end up taking it to TTS Motorsport but they'll be quite pricey I'd of thort.

Also need to change the aux water pump, I've got the part and sort of know what I'm doing. Im guessing u have to fully drain the water first?

 

Cheers in advance for any help.

Ben

[Benjevw 10]

Got to work taking off the bumper and slam panel yesterday to check out the oil cooler! Any reason it's been bypassed? Why would someone do that? Lol. Fitted new aux water pump from Vw and topped water back up, all seemed ok . Came across a Nasty bit of rust

The metal part below rad is pretty much bo//oxed! Can it be replaced? It looks like its bolted underneath the brackets that the bumper mounts to but didn't no if it's welded or not. Also the metal strip that attaches the bumper to this part is rusty to so I'll need that too. I'll get sum pics of it tonight if not to dark.

Took a trip to ultimate dubs on Sunday, was quite good but unfortunately not to many rados. Saw more in car parks around Telford than acctually at the show. Can't wait for the rest of the season now, hurry up santapod!

 

Ben

[VWVW 1]

Got to work taking off the bumper and slam panel yesterday to check out the oil cooler! Any reason it's been bypassed? Why would someone do that? Lol. Fitted new aux water pump from Vw and topped water back up, all seemed ok . Came across a Nasty bit of rust

The metal part below rad is pretty much bo//oxed! Can it be replaced? It looks like its bolted underneath the brackets that the bumper mounts to but didn't no if it's welded or not. Also the metal strip that attaches the bumper to this part is rusty to so I'll need that too. I'll get sum pics of it tonight if not to dark.

Took a trip to ultimate dubs on Sunday, was quite good but unfortunately not to many rados. Saw more in car parks around Telford than acctually at the show. Can't wait for the rest of the season now, hurry up santapod!

 

Ben

 

That metal part below the rad can be removed. If its really rusted try and source another one I had mine sandblasted and powder coated as mine was still good and spray a lot of protective wax in that area. If you have already replaced your radiator coolant you may want to prop up the radiator with axle stands before taking the metal part off for support.

[Benjevw 10]

Cheers mate. Glad it can be replaced as its very brittle. Is it a strutural piece? Might just clean it up and hammerite it for now! I'm going to see a rado being broken tonight so I'll c what that's like and take it if any good!

. I'll be doin a coolant and oil change soon so I'll get it done with the rad empty to make life easier. Cheers for the advice buddy

[toledo 0]

Also I got a dremmel off eBay . Keep seein on here that people are using em and seem really handy. I got the lithium ion battery one that's meant to last like 6 hours or sumin! Hope it's ok anyway.

 

In my experience of lithium battery power tools the batteries dont last much longer than that before refusing to charge and needing replacing LOL !

[Benjevw 10]

In my experience of lithium battery power tools the batteries dont last much longer than that before refusing to charge and needing replacing LOL !

 

Funny you should say that . It got delivered, went to put it on charge and guess what? No charge!! A little green led flickers when I wobble it around but apart from that nothing. Changed the plug and checked it over but still nout! Pretty fking annoyin but my dad had a corded 1 so ended up using that. The guy said it was working perfect when he sent it so dunno how it could've broke in the box? I'm thinking he lied lol

[KIPVW 0]

Ooh that rad support does look a bit worse for wear.

 

Make sure the engine is constantly supported as when the bumper is removed the only bolt holding it in place are the 2 small bolts that go inbetween the large bumper bolts that you've removed.

 

And the screw into a captive nut which is located in the rad support which is very rusty, i'm suprised it hasn't given way already :/

 

good luck with it :)

[Benjevw 10]

Ooh that rad support does look a bit worse for wear.

 

Make sure the engine is constantly supported as when the bumper is removed the only bolt holding it in place are the 2 small bolts that go inbetween the large bumper bolts that you've removed.

 

And the screw into a captive nut which is located in the rad support which is very rusty, i'm suprised it hasn't given way already :/

 

good luck with it :)

 

It looks a lot worse in real life lol

Cheers for the advice kip . Are VR and 8v parts different? Goin to meet stueyB later as he's got 1 from an 8v.

I assume they are different like most bits.

 

Cheers

[KIPVW 0]

I actually think the top section that you need is generic, but dont quote me on that. i think the actual cross member bit underneath is model specific?

[Benjevw 10]

Oh cool that would be ideal if they are the same! Hopefully this 1s in better condition than mine, at least without the holes lol

[KIPVW 0]

I did say dont quote me though lol! just checked etka, and although the part has the same number for 8v and VR6 it does however have on letter different at the end of each part number.

 

Hopefully someone will confirm the parts are interchangeable.

[DriverVR6 11]

Benjevw, you're making nice progress. I see from an earlier photo that one of your HT leads broke, so you may find the following useful....

 

VR6 Tool to remove spark plug leads from spark plugs (VAG Part 021 012 213)

 

This may help owners of VR6's. A friend of mine just broke his HT lead as he was trying to pull it off the spark plug. What he didn't realise is that the tool to remove the leads from the spark plugs is in the "tool box" provided by VW. If you still have the original wheel changing jack then you will find the tool on the jack raising wrench. It looks like a black plastic pipe/sleeve. Sorry, can't put a picture up until I get a new camera. Hope this is of help, and avoids broken HT leads.

[Benjevw 10]

I did say dont quote me though lol! just checked etka, and although the part has the same number for 8v and VR6 it does however have on letter different at the end of each part number.

 

Hopefully someone will confirm the parts are interchangeable.

 

Picked up the new 1 last night . It's pretty much exactly the same apart from a little bracket sticking out of the drivers side for the rad to sit on, as the rad obv is at more of an angle on the vr . Haven't had time to take a pic yet but will later. I'll have to make a suitable bracket to hold the rad but an easy job. Also cheers to StueyB for the parts and generally being a top bloke.

Should I change the front engine mount while it's off? Any particular 1 to go for or just standard Vw part?

Cheers guys

[Benjevw 10]

Benjevw, you're making nice progress. I see from an earlier photo that one of your HT leads broke, so you may find the following useful....

 

VR6 Tool to remove spark plug leads from spark plugs (VAG Part 021 012 213)

 

This may help owners of VR6's. A friend of mine just broke his HT lead as he was trying to pull it off the spark plug. What he didn't realise is that the tool to remove the leads from the spark plugs is in the "tool box" provided by VW. If you still have the original wheel changing jack then you will find the tool on the jack raising wrench. It looks like a black plastic pipe/sleeve. Sorry, can't put a picture up until I get a new camera. Hope this is of help, and avoids broken HT leads.

 

Thanx mate yea it's coming along alright . I haven't acctually checked to see if I've got 1 in the toolkit lol . I'll have to have a look. I used long nosed pliers to pull mine out :/

[KIPVW 0]

The standard ones are good but will notice significant difference with a vibratechnics one, i couldn't believe the difference it made to acceleration and gear change feel :)

[Benjevw 10]

The standard ones are good but will notice significant difference with a vibratechnics one, i couldn't believe the difference it made to acceleration and gear change feel :)

 

I might just stick with the standard 1 for the time being as its not that hard to drop the crossmember. Vibratechnics mounts will be added to the growing list of bits too:)

 

So here's the two rad supports for a comparison! As you can see the 1 I got off stuey is 100x better than mine.

Started cleaning it up along with the crossmember and splitter bar ready for a coat of hammerite. I've got silver but might get some Matt black as i think itll look better( not that you can see it lol)

This is the bracket that I'll have to make up. It's first thing on the to-do list so I can get it all painted and back together( hope my pals around early tomorra mornin).

 

Cleaned up the new top mounts up aswell for a lick of paint :)

[VWVW 1]

Is that bracket the only difference between a VR and non VR radiator support. Thats good to know.

 

Not sure if there is a tool station near you. They sell some protection wax that you may want to use for £3.20 on your radiator support see link below.

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/Lubricants%20&%20Sprays/Protection%20Wax/d60/sd2795/p41925

[KIPVW 0]

Ah as above nice to know, good luck with the fabrication :)

[Benjevw 10]

Is that bracket the only difference between a VR and non VR radiator support. Thats good to know.

 

Not sure if there is a tool station near you. They sell some protection wax that you may want to use for £3.20 on your radiator support see link below.

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/Lubricants%20&%20Sprays/Protection%20Wax/d60/sd2795/p41925

 

Yea As far as I know just by lookin it is. So hopefully no surprises when fitting or I'll be ****ed. Cheers for the heads up on the wax , I think someone else said to slap a load around that area. Just got a can of black hammerite from the market I work at. I'll pop to tool station tomorrow mornin and grab a tub.

 

Another thing, to get the panel out I had to remove a pipe from the power steering cooler that comes out the front . I lost a bit of fluid (another stain on the drive lol) before getting a bung in there , not a lot but I'm sure il loose more putting it back on. Is it worth changing the fluid ? Or just top it up? Does anyone know how much it takes?

[Benjevw 10]

Ah as above nice to know, good luck with the fabrication :)

 

Cheers kip

 

How's the injuries? Daym dawgs!

[KIPVW 0]

Yeah getting there mte thanks! it's the owners that are the problem though :/

[VWVW 1]

Another thing, to get the panel out I had to remove a pipe from the power steering cooler that comes out the front . I lost a bit of fluid (another stain on the drive lol) before getting a bung in there , not a lot but I'm sure il loose more putting it back on. Is it worth changing the fluid ? Or just top it up? Does anyone know how much it takes?

 

Thats the power steering fluid...I dont think its that expensive from the dealers. Not sure how many bottle you need for complete fluid change. You could top it up if you want. If the fluid has never been changed before whilst you have the front end open you might aswell change it completely. If you do drain and refill later the power steering pump will make a whine sound at the start...Think you just have to turn the powersteering lock to lock to get rid of any air lock and top up as needed.

Edited March 17, 2012 by VWVW

[KIPVW 0]

yeah one bottle should do it. just reconnect when all is back together and top it up, put cap on and run engine and turn full lock for a bit to work it through then repeat until correct level. I think i read that its good to jack up the front too a bit to save extra strain on the system. ie lessen the load on the wheels.

[Benjevw 10]

Cool thanx for the advice. I just got 1 1/2 ltrs so that should do hopefully. I have no idea when any fluids were changed tbh so I'll probly put new stuff in just for peace of mind. Come to think of it my steering was rather noisy .

 

Cheers guys

[KIPVW 0]

it takes a week or so to quieten down too so keep checking the level and top up as required and you'll be sorted :)