Whats so bad about T-cut?

[Ice White Socks 0]

Hello,

 

I was going to T-cut the car this weekend but I always see people advising against it on the forum. The thing that baffles me is why do people say it takes the paint off. Surely most Corrados are metallic paint so doesn't that mean that they are laquered over the top of the paint :?

 

The reason I ask is that my car always seems to get so filthy so quickly so I thought if I get some metallic T-cut and give it a good going over it will clean/smooth all the laquer and hopefully make it harder for the dirt ot stick to it

 

Would this be worth doing or am I just talking pap :wink:

 

Cheers

[kvwloon 0]

That's more to the point, you DO NOT want to use too much elbow grease and rub through the lacquer! There are other cutting compounds available specifically for 'metallic' finishes, which I have found to be fine. I think they are less abrasive than the norm. I'm no expert, but I've used these 'mettalic' versions of T-Cut OK, just don't go too far and penetrate the lacquer is all I would say really.

[DaveStorm 0]

I think the paint on your Storm is pearlescent. Or does it make no difference if you use a metallic cutting compound on it?

[kvwloon 0]

Mines pearlescent too, as I see it that's same as metallic, i.e. lacquered. :?:

[Supercharged 2]

T-cut is very effective, especially on tornado red, but not to be used all the time! - once or twice a year should surfice and be careful not to get it on the black rubber seals.

[Guest]

Mines pearlescent too, as I see it that's same as metallic, i.e. lacquered. :?:

 

yeah, its lacquered, some of my laquer is peeling :cry:

[Supercharged 2]

yeah, its lacquered, some of my laquer is peeling

 

You won't get rid of that i'm afraid altho the T cut will make it look better for a while as it will take the line out where the laquer is peeling it will just carry on going... Its usually the sign of a dodgy paint job and the only was to get rid of it is to get it done again, properly.

[dazzyvr6 0]

the problem with lacquer is all you need is a tiny chip and water will get in between the paint and lacquer and it will start to lift,the only way to sort it is to get it repainted

[Guest]

yeah, its lacquered, some of my laquer is peeling

 

You won't get rid of that i'm afraid altho the T cut will make it look better for a while as it will take the line out where the laquer is peeling it will just carry on going... Its usually the sign of a dodgy paint job and the only was to get rid of it is to get it done again, properly.

 

nah, its simply wear I think mate.

 

the main locations are on the bumper (resulting from stone chips) and under the drivers door handle, its never had a respray to my knowledge, simple age i'm afraid.

 

I know T-Cut won't get rid of that, but as you say might help to smooth the edges.

 

At the end of the day a respray is gonna be the only proper cure :(

[joebrent 0]

I have always uded t-cut to take out minor scuffs of the paint work, it seems to remove them and doesnt damage the paint, theres a fine line between removing scuffs and removing lacquer, too much elbow grease and theres goes the lacquer!!!

[Guest]

well, less elbow grease suits me fine :D :lol:

[jedi-knight83 0]

its probably been answered.... basicly the tcut does what it says on the tin....CUTS, its takes the outer layer of 'hazey' lacquer off the car... but, as has already been said, dont do it too often or you will simply cut all the lacquer away and then your fudged!!!

 

The best result i have seen is using a colour specific t-cut and then a colour specific wax or similar afterwards.. the wax will ensure it stays nice and shiney for longer

[dinkus 10]

T-Cut is good for getting out slight scuffs and scratches, but as has been said, it cuts a thin layer of paint/lacquer off to do it. If you want to just make your paintwork more shiney, there is a guy on here that sells Swissol, which is a superduper shampoo/wax combo. You can even get a teflon one if you really don't want the sh** to stick :D

[Storm Monkey 0]

To stop sh** sticking, try Autoglyn 'Extra Gloss Protection'.I don't want to sound like an advert, but its damn good. Yon need to get your car waxed/polished, then wipe this stuff on with a cloth. Its a runny clear liquid, and makes the car go hazy and dull to start with. Once youve applied it, leave it for 1 or 2 hours (longer than it says on the tin!) then wipe over with a dry cloth. Its very low effort and leaves a thin polymer coating that fills in all of the microscopic defects in the paint. It seems to spoc cr%p sticking, and makes rain bead up and roll off (like a new car :lol: ). Personally, I dont go near the paintwork with polish or cutting compound, unless there is damage that needs repaired, I just use wax and gloss protection, to add layers, not take them away. The autoglyn stuff isn't cheap, but I'm less than half way through the bottle, and have used it 4 or 5 times, on all 3 of my cars.

[Guest]

I might give that a whirl too then Storm Monkey, mine gets dirty over night after washing it, which is very annoying

[joebrent 0]

I always recomend autoglym,its the dogs, and I also recomend people look at the link in my sig to see what it can do 8)

[stevemac 0]

When I used to work for Mercedes - our valeters used to use Autoglym on all new & used cars - excellent results every time

[Geo 0]

I use the autoglym extra gloss protection on my car too. It's the best I have found in the low-medium price range. But if you're after really good stuff (and don't mind spending a few quid) try Swissol or Zymol. Not cheap but that stuff really is the dogs 8)

[Tempest 0]

True, I use Autoglym's High Resin Polish (only if needs be), but use Turtle Wax Gloss Guard to wax all my 3 cars. Water beads up nicely, it lasts quite long, and somehow keeps the white Rado looking cleaner for longer, even Jims16V has commented on that, as with white cars you'd expect the worst.

 

Haven't tried the Autoglym equivalent, the Extra Gloss Protection yet.

 

Tempest