Diamond Hell 0 Posted January 25, 2014 Oh and how much do the tri-spokes weigh in at each? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smiithy 10 Posted January 25, 2014 Its not got a cat mate. And the 3 spokes weigh in around 6/7kg a peice :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Diamond Hell 0 Posted January 25, 2014 I'd still fit ITBs - more power, over a larger rev-range and probably significantly better economy! Even if you don't fit ITBs - get hold of the Polo trigger wheel and fit it with the sensor whilst you're all stripped down - the crank signal will be useful to MegaJolt and help you map the ignition accurately. Do the wheels weigh 6kg or 7kg? The difference between the two is the difference between a light wheel and a really light wheel! Sebrings stagger in at 9.9kg!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smiithy 10 Posted January 25, 2014 Fronts weigh just over 6 and rears just under 7 as they are 16 x 7/8. The megajolt uses mainly ford edis parts so a 36/1 trigger wheel will be fitted to the outter belt pulley and a ford crank sensor for ease of megjolt as its got all the ford bits with it. See how it goes. Ive looked over alot of stuff and I think I should be on for a fun car for a while untill I want more power.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Diamond Hell 0 Posted January 25, 2014 Problem with the trigger on the end of the crank like that is it's in all the filth etc. £10 says the Polo one will be 36:1 I think I have one on the shelf - I'll look it out and confirm. It's a straight replacement for the crank seal assembly. Never could understand people running wider rear tyres on a front drive car. :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted January 27, 2014 -ABF inlet , KR exhaust cam. (will be making my own vernier pulley at work) Thanks for looking, Comments, criticisms and advice very welcome. Very nice Corrado, and makes a change sticking with the 16v. Regarding the cams have a read of this thread http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?156126-A-VW-16v-camshaft-study I would, and indeed have use both ABF cams. Mines a 9a with a KR head, ABF cams and Toyota ITBs. A bit of a mixture, but it works :) On a dyno known to be pessimistic it achieved this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted January 27, 2014 Mine uses the original distributor for crank position by the way. For what I need, it seems to be fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smiithy 10 Posted January 27, 2014 That sounds lovely. Any vids? I love the carb noice! Im going kr exhaust as when u look into lift and duration the 027 exhaust series is more aggressive. The combo is the best 2 16v stock cams I could find for lift vs duration. Being megajolt I need a crank sensor and making a bracket in place of the dizzy to hold the coil pack for an oem look. Got it cheap so made sense over electronic advance dizzy as theres alot more scope for a smoother ignition curve. I think if it all comes together it will be fun enough. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted January 27, 2014 Have a read of post #19 on the thread I linked to. It shows a comparison between kr and abf cams, someone measured the lift and duration using professional equipment. Abf has more lift and similar duration to kr. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) This is mine and a friends two Corrado's on the dyno :) Edited January 28, 2014 by corradophil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smiithy 10 Posted January 28, 2014 Sounds lovely mate! Nice figures too. Whats in the yellow one? Sounds pretty fruity too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted January 28, 2014 Thanks :) The yellow one is a 1.8t with a k04 turbo. It's very quick! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smiithy 10 Posted January 29, 2014 For a ko4 the power figures seem low. Thst wants to go to r tech ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted January 29, 2014 That dyno tends to read a bit lower than others. For instance power from a car which ran on this dyno (Garage Streamline) was 194bhp, it then made 202bhp at tsr. It's all a bit of a lottery and dependent on so many variables. If you apply that ratio mine would make 192bhp at tsr, and the yellow one 258bhp at tsr. Having said that the yellow one did require further mapping and unfortunately suffered detonation on a track day causing some serious damage. It's now re-built! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smiithy 10 Posted February 3, 2014 Yeah one of those dynos that break your heart! Anyway, more progress this weekend, finished painting the box, begun stripping the loom and cleaning the bay. The exciting bit, pics... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smiithy 10 Posted February 4, 2014 Made up a quick distributor "plug" / bracket for my coil pack today, trying to keep it all OEM positions. Quite happy with the outcome..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted February 4, 2014 Great work mate, the dizzy plug/pack holder looks smart. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smiithy 10 Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks mate :thumbleft: Think I might tidy it up some more and take abit of meat out of it yet but Ill have to see. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smiithy 10 Posted February 5, 2014 Decided to put abit more time in on the coil bracket as it looked messy, New results -- Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smiithy 10 Posted March 6, 2014 So, an update finally... Corrado is officially in its new home. Started stripping the loom down further.... To find this.... Any ideas what my un-used, half botched together wires are for? could they just be un-used generic loom or has it been faffed about with. The wires into the "plugs" are from the battery and go through the bulkhead below the ecu loom. the triple fuse holder is also between the battery and the un-used plugs. Thanks for looking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites