VR6 Headgasket Change Advise?

[Jim Bowen 1]

Not saying my head gasket has gone, but want to be prepared for it, in case i suddenly need the parts.

 

Is there a decent guide to follow anywhere?

 

What parts should be changing?

 

All i know of is:

-Headgasket

-Bolts for head

 

 

Just done timing chains, clutch is quite new too.

[SamG40 0]

If you get a headgasket set from GSF its a victor reinz and you get all the relevant exhaust manifold, inlet gaskets, stem seals etc. I replaced the water pump whist it was all apart too. You still need to raise the block but its a lot easier to get to with everything out of the way.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Have also already done the water pump. Was about to go and enquire at VW about headgasket kit, but is the GSF one ok to use as well?

 

Looking at the cars history the original gasket has lasted 200,000miles

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Looking at the cars history the original gasket has lasted 200,000miles

 

Get yourself some decent chemical metal as well. The head will undoubtedly be pitted if it's still on the original gasket.

[Jim Bowen 1]

I was thinking i would have to send it off to be skimmed, is that normal practice still? I not had a head gasket done for about 10yrs and this time i'll be doing it myself.

 

Just been to VW and they don't do a headgasket kit as such, but sell the parts individually. Works out about £160 for just the gasket and 10 bolts, are they the head bolts?

[Benjevw 10]

Isn't there 20 head bolts?

I'm in the process of doing this too so will be following this :)

Cheers

Ben

[Jim Bowen 1]

Am half thinking about buying a new/recon head to fit at the same time.

 

Not sure where i'd get one etc, Can't really get mine done as it would add too much time to the job. Do you think it would be worth me phoning somewhere like stealth, not sure if this is the sort of thing some places might have lying about the place etc.

 

Keep hearing about Man in the shed, but can't find a website

[Kevin Bacon 5]

If the head is coming off, it makes sense to plonk a rebuilt one back down onto the block again! The VR feels refreshed after a head rebuild. The fully sealed valves restore lost bottom end torque and throttle response.

 

Yeah, it's 20 head bolts and the three layer gasket is about £60 IIRC.

 

Yup, digging the corrosion out of the head pits (happened because of the G10/11 shennanigans) and then filling with chemical metal before skimming is standard practice these days.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Am still hoping my weird misfire is from the coolant leaking onto wiring. Have ordered a mk4 header tank today and going to drain everything. Fit that and the seal on rad sender and see if its just an airlock I'm suffering from.

 

If not I guess it will be head gasket. The more I think about it. It seems wrong to do the head gasket and not do anything with the head. It does sound noisy and just past 200,000miles. So will need doing at some point.

 

---------- Post added at 8:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:26 PM ----------

 

So. 20 bolts at about £6.55 each and a gasket. What about bolts that are likely to be old and worth changing. Been reading the exhaust manifold can be awkward. Is it worth getting new bolts for that?

 

Also do I new some sort of star socket for something?

 

Wanna be able to have everything when I start as can't take car off the road for long. People will laugh at me.

[science 0]

Hi Jim, just in the process of rebuilding the head on mine.

To take the head off took 5 hours including plenty of tea breaks.

For the head bolts you will need a 12mm 12 point spline (triple square bit).

You will need 2 people for undoing the cam sprocket bolts (if you need to remove the cams).

The head can be removed with the exhaust manifold in place, you may want to separate the downpipe?

 

If you decide to rebuild the head, here's a list of parts I've sourced that may be useful (including postage);

 

Ebay

 

doctor_car

Head Gasket (Metal/Steel) Vw/Ford ELRING 401.820 £25.94

 

jjcraceandrally

Torco MPZ Engine Assembly Lube HP 5oz Tube £9.50

 

youwantwehave

6x VALVE GUIDES AUDI,SEAT,VW VG3505 BY BGA £29.65

 

cs-parts-de

12x Tappets (12 neue Hydrostössel INA für VW VR6 AAA AES ABV) £76.76

or 12x Lightweight tappets (12 leichte Hydrostössel Rennsport INA VW 2,8l 2,9l VR6 AAA ABV Turbo wie Schrick) £130.49

 

GSF

12x Valve Stem Seal (Victor Reinz) 145RE0010 £11.40

Rocker Cover Gasket (Premium) 110VG0120 £12.24

 

Carparts4less

6x Inlet valve (TRW) 308441390 £66.96

Head Bolt Set (Febi Bilstein) 300440320 £23.70

[bmwcompact 10]

I have no experience of the VR6 engine but have had the heads off VW Derby/Polo/Golf 2/Scirocco all at 100-130K as well as other Marque engines. In the case of the Golf (100K) there was head erosion/corrosion and chemical metal was needed. Its often said that a head gasket failure/overheated can lead to head distortion and hence the need for head skimming. I am sure the head can be checked to see if this is required.

 

I have always bought a full head gasket set (Reinz) as someone else has suggested and of course head bolts. Often its difficult to remove an exhaust manifold with the possibility of shearing a stud. Depending on their condition it may be necessary/advisable to replace one or more studs. The same goes for the manifold/downpipe studs (I've replaced some on my 16v when I fitted a used exhaust manifold). I always use new copperised exhaust manifold nuts as a matter of course.

 

I have always removed valves/cleaned off the deposits and where necessary replaced springs/hydraulic tappets. I have always reground the valves. I dont know whether at 200K anyone would consider valve replacement/guide replacement is needed (there'll be a spec for wear). Obviously the gasket kit will contain valve stem seals.

 

As others have suggested getting a recon head may be the best way forward then its all taken care of.

Edited March 25, 2013 by bmwcompact