Covering old ground, but... VR6 head work

[Robbo149 0]

Apologies for posting on this subject yet again! but I'm just wanting to clear a few things up before I decide which route to take. My 100k VR has noisy tappets (tried some tappet cleaner for a couple of hundred miles, but they're still quite noisy), also after close scrutiny of my rear view mirror, I have noticed the odd puff of smoke (usually when flooring it after a long downhill stretch), so I'm thinking valve stem seals too, Oil consumption is quite high @ about 1 litre per K.

 

So, a couple of questions: I read somewhere on here that it's possible to replace the valve stem seals without taking the head off, using an airline to blow up the valves. Should this be simple enough for any decent garage to do?

 

Is it a waste of time doing valve stem seals without doing the guides?

 

Is it also possible to do the upper timimg chain tensioner with the head on?

 

Cheers once again guys,

Robbo

[PhatVR6 0]

It is possible, but at 100K you may aswell go for a head gasket change, a full set of chains, a head rebuild and a new clutch.

 

You cna't do the upper chain unless you remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah I'd agree, no point doing it piece meal, you may aswell bit the preverbial and get it all done. At least then you'll enjoy another 10 years use from it. Changing just the seals buys you about 5K max, then the valve stems running off centre will just eat through the new seals again.

 

The thing is, most of us bought our VRs with over 80K on them, so many of them now need the 100K work doing unfortunately.

 

K

[Robbo149 0]

Cheers chaps, I knew you were gonna say that :( . Just me trying to cut costs, as a DIY job isn't an option. I guess cost cutting just don't go with being a VR owner!!!

 

Thanks,

Robbo

[PhatVR6 0]

I don't know how you no-DIY guys can afford to run a VR6. The costs or engine work would scare me shitless.

[Scott 0]

It is possible, but at 100K you may aswell go for a head gasket change, a full set of chains, a head rebuild and a new clutch.

 

You cna't do the upper chain unless you remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel.

 

Exactly what am going to do myself..... the labour is the killer - the parts are cheap. :twisted:

 

Got a local engineering guy doing the head for me... my only concerns come to timing it up properly - can anyone advise?

 

Also how much of a nightmare is it to get the gearbox off?

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Same as a MK2 Golf. i.e. get all the crap out of the way, remove all 12 driveshaft bolts with an 8mm spline, undo the 4 or 5 19mm box to block bolts and you're pretty much there. The VR bellhousing and box assembly is heavy, watch out!

[PhatVR6 0]

Timing it is p1ss easy. I have pics of all the timing marks if you need them.

[Rpmayne 0]

I know everyone seems to say do this and that at the same time because otherwise its a waste of time, but personally I'd be abit careful and stick to what needs doing. E.g. Change the valve guides only if they need doing. 1mm rock is the maximum limit. If you do the guides it a head off job, alot more money and time, and you're scare yourself looking at the state of everything else. And it might not have needed it anyway.

 

The problem is changing things without actually diagnosing whether they are at fault of not. Why does the clutch need doing with the head? Does the clutch ever slip? Why not change the cams aswell, they must have worn by a thou' or so by now. Isn't that abit like buying new HT leads when you change the spark plugs.. :?

 

Get it compression tested by someone who knows what going on.. If you take the head off thinking its something as trivial :? as the guides, only to find its the rings and bores, you'll wish you'd sold it. I do!!!