Mocal Oil Cooler, how does it plumb in?

[Andy Brookes 0]

Hi All,

 

Another question for today, can someone with a Mocal oil cooler kit describe or even better provide pics of how the sandwich plate is fitted?? The reason I ask is that I have the VR up on axel stands at the mo and had a look underneath, the standard oilcooler is mounted seperately to the filter housing, which looks all very odd compared to 4 cyl vw's.

 

Also interested in suggestions on where to get one from.

[Henny 0]

http://www.thinkauto.co.uk sells all of the bits you need... 8)

 

Can't post a pic of one fitted to a VR 'cos I've got a G60! :roll: :lol: I think that it just replaces the standard oil cooler, although it may bolt over the original one on a VR, I'm not sure... I know that you need to buy an end cap with the kit to fit the sandwich plate though... :?

[Andy Brookes 0]

I think that it just replaces the standard oil cooler

I would pefer to keep the standard cooler as i'm lead to believe it actually helps to warm the oil from a cold start. Getting the oil up to operating temp as soon as has got to be good.

[PhatVR6 0]

I thnk you'll find the oil heat up a damn sight quicker than the water does.

[Scott 0]

I thnk you'll find the oil heat up a damn sight quicker than the water does.

 

That is incorrect....

 

You will find comparing the water temp guage via the oil temp on the mfa that the water temp actually increases quicker.... hence why its important from cold start to watch the oil temp before revving it rather than the water!

[beavis 0]

The original water/oil exchanger we prefer to remove. They can fail and you have a head gasket blown stylee mayo on the blend. Also it brings the whole oil filter stack very close on the cross member, you cannot use the original G60 oil filter as the 30mm stub on the bottom hits the cross memeber.

To bypass the original water oil cooler you need to replace the 2 coolant hoses with mk1 Golf Gti items, remove the water/oil exchanger, modify the filter spacer plate which the oil filter treads onto and for a road car use a thermostated takeoff plate.

[Andy Brookes 0]

Thanks for the info beavis, but mines a VR, i think its a bit different.

 

I ran a quick check on oil verses water temp last night and the water does get hot quicker than the oil...well that the water and oil gauges read anyway.

[dazzyvr6 0]

its hard to tell on the mfa because the oil temp doesnt start reading till it hit 50 degrees i think(or there abouts)

[seanoVR 0]

Yeah it starts at 50. I think you'll find the water gets up to operating temperature alot quicker than the oil does...

[beavis 0]

Thanks for the info beavis, but mines a VR, i think its a bit different.

 

I ran a quick check on oil verses water temp last night and the water does get hot quicker than the oil...well that the water and oil gauges read anyway.

 

LOL.. sorry.. I just realised it was VR

[Andy Brookes 0]

no worries beavis.

 

Just thinking about this oil / water heatup thang. Would I be right in saying that the higher density the fluid the longer it takes to heat up. Hence why the water in the engine is heating up quicker than the oil. I realise the oil is in direct contact with the underside of the pistons etc so will see higher temps than the water, so offsetting the rates of heating up. So if all the above is correct, it is better to keep the original oil/water heat exchanger to help warm the oil up, with the additional oil to air cooler to keep the top end down.

[dazzyvr6 0]

i would imagine the difference in oil and water times would be very little,and remember the water is held back by the thermostat for a while so it would heat up slightly quicker

[Si B 0]

the text book answer re oil and water heat up is that oil has a higher specific heat capacity than water and therefore requires more joules of energy to increase it's temp by one degree in a fixed time. This also means that the oil stores more heat energy and therefore will take longer to cool down.

[Andy Brookes 0]

I knew I should have studied more in my physics lessons!

[fla 9]

Just to resurrect this one (2yrs old!!). I'm looking to fit my mocal to my VR - as per the title, how does it plumb in? Presumably the bumper AND slam panel have to come off, but then what goes where? How do you remove the old cooler? And is it necessary to drain the oil and coolant? (I've just changed the oil and coolant in mine). Thanks all.

[PhatVR6 0]

old cooler is fitted via a great big bolt. new plate is joined by same method but you may need a shorter bolt (should come with the kit). you bin the old cooler, and re route the water pipes to by pass it (so yes, you will lose coolant, so be prepared to catch it or replace it).

 

use a thermostatically controlled sandwich plate, then the oil will warm up properly rather than taking an age to go through the cooler and stuff.

 

you shouldn't need to change the oil, but it's a good idea, rather than risking any coolant getting into the oil ,or manky old oil blocking up the new oil cooler. Just be aware that you will need more oil now, to fill the lines and cooler. so check the oil lever again and again until it stops going down. you'll need about 6 litres, maybe a bit more.

 

mount the cooler where it will get cold air flow.

 

I can get kits from the states, top quality, stainless steel hoses, anodised fittings, pukka stuff, mocal coolers with thermostatic sandwich plates. PM me with what you want and your rough budget.

[PhatVR6 0]

oil cooler pic (factory)

 

[fla 9]

PhatVR6, thanks very much. I actually bought a cooler about 1 year back and have just received some bits to plumb in though from another post it does appear that I am short of the thermostat and a few machined parts.

The oil cooler is the alloy one on the right? The left looks like the filter - is that correct? When you say reoute the water pipes, what does that entail? Joining them or something? If so what would you suggest for that? TIA

[NickVR6 0]

looks like Phats sorted you out with a pick, if you want any more andy just shout and ill take a few of mine tommorrow. or bring it down to you for an excuse to go for a decent drive!

[PhatVR6 0]

PhatVR6, thanks very much. I actually bought a cooler about 1 year back and have just received some bits to plumb in though from another post it does appear that I am short of the thermostat and a few machined parts.

The oil cooler is the alloy one on the right? The left looks like the filter - is that correct? When you say reoute the water pipes, what does that entail? Joining them or something? If so what would you suggest for that? TIA

 

correct, original cooler is the square box on the right, with the huge round nut thing holding it to the block. left is the filter housing.

 

literllay, join the pipes together. or make another single peice pipe.