My new Storm

[STORM 2 0]

I will also withold my contribution to your engine fund as a result of your lapse comments

 

Looking at the reaction perhaps a formal apology is in order? :) :) :) :)

[Storm 0]

To all those Classic green Corrado owners I would like to formally apologise for my serious error of judgement, I was not thinking. In mitigation I would like to cite being very excited about my blue Storm, thinking about the Britney Toxic video again, again, again and again. I really do like Classic Green, in fact I prefer it to Mystic Blue, but not Britney.

 

 

 

........

[Furkz 0]

i can see britneys bogeys :mrgreen:

[Storm 0]

..........Are they green?? :roll:.....and remember thats my bird your talking about.

[Storm 0]

FurkiG60 how much is your car dropped?

[biggrim 0]

To all those Classic green Corrado owners I would like to formally apologise for my serious error of judgement, I was not thinking. In mitigation I would like to cite being very excited about my blue Storm, thinking about the Britney Toxic video again, again, again and again. I really do like Classic Green, in fact I prefer it to Mystic Blue, but not Britney.

 

 

 

........

 

We would like to apologise for the error made in the previous post. Those responsible have been sacked :wink:

[Bojmobile 0]

I'd just like to announce that Sir Jimmy Saville is dead.

[Storm 0]

What a lovely way to spend the evening. :D I've just been down to Church Crookham, where I cut the front off of the car Peter Jordan is breaking.

:oops:

 

So I now have the front end of a Corrado 16V with a Nick Saran 2.8 highline engine conversion. The car was dynoed at 188BHP so must have been modded, its got les than 70K miles on it too. Boy are 9" grinders powerful!

 

Anyone know how to identify the gearbox, I was wondering if it got changed along with the engine. Also what are the ratio's in the highline and how do they compare to the std VR?

 

Thanks in advance

[Storm 0]

Just a little update on my auto to manual conversion/ engine swap. Progress is slow but this is one of the most rewarding things I have ever done :D , by feck I had better finish it. I now have over fifteen hours invested.

 

The running order changed as I Learn more. I was going to unbolt the old engine and replace with the new and go from there. This would make life difficult working behind the engine for the plumbing. The crux of this is the pedal box install and the wiring. The order I am working to now is: remove old engine, install clutch hydraulics, pedal box, shifter mech, new engine and box, and then the wiring.

 

Both engines are ready to lift and I will do this tomorrow/ Tuesday. This is to make space, its best to have an empty engine bay when installing clutch master cylinders, piping etc. Sounds hard but is totally easy when you have half a car on your drive that is the right spec. Its like giant Mecanno, unbolt from one and bolt into t'other. On the lift I was going to use a piece of 6 x 2 with a piece of rope to each hanger on the engine and one from the gearbox. Anyone else do it this way?

 

Etka is also brilliant, It took about an hour and a half but I have a list that details every difference between the auto and manual. When I am finished It is my objective that no-one will be able to tell that the car was ever an auto, even a VAG mechanic.

 

The only issue I have run into so far is the lack of holes in the bulkhead for the Clutch master cylinder, I have it on good authority that they may be hidden under the paint as metal blanking plugs, otherwise its time to make a template and do some very careful cutting! I'll no for sure when I get under the dash and have a look from the inside.

 

If I can I want to start it by next Sunday. My mind is thinking do I finish it and then move onto the G60 (if I havent accidentally sold it)

 

Just a quick thanks to the guys that encouraged me to start this in the first place and have offered advice and assistance so far. I can now totally understand where phatVR is coming from, you can do this at home, save an enormous amount of money and have immense fun. I'm like a pig in muck doing this.

[Phil K 0]

aahhhhemmm is that block paving I see in the background :lol:

 

getting my coat now :wink:

[STORM 2 0]

I'd just like to announce that Sir Jimmy Saville is dead.

 

 

:?: :?: :?:

[Storm 0]

Another little update :) : I got the Pedal Box in on Saturday, together with the steering column re assembly etc done. I had to drill the bulkhead for the Clutch master in the end. It was easier than I thought as the pedalbox has the outline already in it. I also managed to get the pipe from the donors clutch hydraulics installed as per the factory layout. So its clipped properly behind the aluminium shroud on the bulkhead, behind the ABS pump and onto the fork on the chassis rail.

 

So its just the engine, gearlinkage and then then wiring. And with that in mind.........I have decided to stay with the auto's engine harness, for a number of reasons: its separate from the auto wiring, the throttle body plastic on the highline engine is slightly damaged and I dont have to go messing in the fuse box.

 

The questions in my mind are now:-

1. Please can someone tell me what bits on an OBD2 engine you have to change, if any to fit into a car with OBD1 wiring and ECU? I will be adding the Storm's inlet manifold and TB lucky I didnt sell it.

2. How difficult will it be to take the exhaust cat out? I think I need to do this to fit the gearlinkage.

 

Thanks for your help.

[Furkz 0]

SOWWY abt taking so long

 

britneys bogeys are lil blue-ish kinda like that dirrrty storm colour that corra-rra (mag courts version of the corrado) car thing come in :wink:

 

Mines lowered 60mm on APEX look at the gallery not at the sig :wink: :wink:

[Storm 0]

britneys bogeys are lil blue-ish kinda like that dirrrty storm colour that corra-rra (mag courts version of the corrado) car thing come in :wink:

 

Mines lowered 60mm on APEX look at the gallery not at the sig :wink: :wink:

 

Furki your PC's graphics card needs checking, their nowt wrong with Britneys bogeys.

[Furkz 0]

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: tink my pc needs a vr6 style service :wink:

[Storm 0]

DISASTEROUS DAY.

 

Right, this morning went to work feeling a million dollars, was looking at the home straight thinking I had done a good job.

 

First problem, I hadn't checked the cables on the gearchange before re assembly and thay had got twisted, So they wouldnt reach the gearbox. The result was another hour and a half of dicking around taking the heatshield out again and putting it all back together properly this time. Hey presto it all works. Smiling again.

 

 

Second issue, I have to get the drive shaft sorted and I find out why the ball bearings (BB's) fell out. The shaft got trapped between the sump and the wishbone. I put the hoist back on and brought then engine up a coupla inches. The cage that houses the BB's seems to be stuck in place so probably is damaged. Its not worth putting it all back together to have to strip it again.......more work! I am so desperate to drive it.

 

So I need to take the offside driveshaft out alltogether. Please can you tell me the easist way to do this? If I undo the bolt will it be easy to pull out or will I need to tap it out?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah the inner CV balls fall out mega easily if you're not careful and they can be a pig to re-assemble correctly. New ones can fall apart too when you tap them onto the shaft splines, they're a pain. Trick is to not let the outer cage move too far forward or backwards. If the inner cage is twisted out of alignment, it's a real bast getting the balls back in :cry:

 

The only way to completely remove the shaft is by removing the hub nut. Done up to 195 pounds, so be careful. Then you have to remove the two 17mm strut bolts in order to swing the hub up enough to allow to pull the shaft clear.

 

It may need a little tap with a copper hammer to free it out of the splines. Always replace hub nuts with new ones too.

[Storm 0]

Finally got round to looking at it today. The joint is perfectley okay, just need to buy a new gasket which is pennies. So feel good as I do not need to take the shaft out and spend more money.

 

So now the hard bit. Getting those balls back in. In the bentley manual there is a procedure for doing it on 4Cyl cars, you can turn the cage 90 degrees to the hub.........HTF do you do it on a VR, this is worse than doing one of those silly little puzzles to unlock bits of metal from each other?

[PhatVR6 0]

good luck! I really don't envy you having to change the CV joint with the shaft still on the car, I've done it once, never again.

[Storm 0]

good luck! I really don't envy you having to change the CV joint with the shaft still on the car, I've done it once, never again.

 

Phat, nowt wrong with the joint, nowt wrong with the access, its just getting those balls back in that is screwing me up at the mo :evil:

[Storm 0]

Just put the old engine loom, manifold and TB on the new engine. Thought I'd take a look at the CV joint again. I feel really stoopid :oops: , the balls go in from the outer side of the cage and not between the cage and hub, if that makes sense. If I hadn't looked att the way the 4 cyl cars are done I would have worked it out far sooner.

[Storm 0]

Havent been near it due to work, needing to go out & weather for a week. Hope to get some real progress this weekend. Chargedupstorm is hopefully doing my ECU sometime soon and well be rolling..

[Storm 0]

Just a little update. Its been sat there for 2 months doing nothing due to me being depressed about having to spent upwards of £500 to get the AC back together. Anyway I can now do that for £250, so I'm well chuffed with that.

 

Rad panel and front cross member are with the powder coater.

I have the exact instructions on how to make it start and if they are right its easy, take a relay out and add one wire. I just hope it works.

:)